Cycling and to many nitrites

[gcourtney13]

Cycling a tank and it’s been awhile since I have done a new one. Ammonia is 0 but nitrites read as over max on reading and so does nitrates. (I understand nitrites will show as nitrates on the test). Should I do a water change to lower these numbers or just continue my waiting?

 

[EnterName]

The nitrite oxidizing bacteria grow slower than the ammonia oxidizing ones if I remember correctly.

I suppose you can keep waiting for now, nitrite isn't really dangerous in saltwater so it shouldn't stall bacteria growth.

I'm wondering how you got these nitrite levels in the first place?
1ppm ammonia can oxidize to at most 2.7ppm nitrite and then 3.65ppm nitrate. Where does your test kit max out and how much ammonia did you add?

Edit: Wording

 

[exnisstech]

I'll go out on a limb here by saying I don't own an ammonia or nitrite test kit. When I see nitrate I begin slowly moving forward.
Not a recommended method but I've cycled probably 10 tanks like this and never had a failed or stalled cycle lol. Not that a cycle ever actually stalls.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Nitrite is not a concern at any level likely to be attained, but what is the max on the test you are using?

 

[gcourtney13]

The max is 10ppm. I have a 125 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump. I did accidentally dose to much ammonia by adding 2oz of fritz Fishless fuel.

 

[EnterName]

The max is 10ppm. I have a 125 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump. I did accidentally dose to much ammonia by adding 2oz of fritz Fishless fuel.

The instructions say 5mL per 25gal will increase ammonia by 2ppm. In your 180gal system you would have needed 36mL (1.2oz) instead of 58mL (2oz).
https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fishless-fuel
This means you added 3.22ppm ammonia, which is still within the recommend 2-4ppm.

In theory this should result in up to 8.7ppm nitrite, but the system will have less than 180gal due to substrate and rocks so 10ppm seems like a reasonable test result.

I suppose it won't be much more than that and there is nothing to worry about
You are still extremely far away from dangerous nitrite levels and the nitrogen cycle will not be slowed down by these levels.

 

[TokenReefer]

I didn't know there was a dangerous nitrite level. Thought it was just an indicator

 

[EnterName]

I didn't know there was a dangerous nitrite level. Thought it was just an indicator

Pretty much everything is dangerous if there is too much of it

But reaching dangerous nitrite levels is near impossible (just as Randy said), so you don't have to worry about it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I didn't know there was a dangerous nitrite level. Thought it was just an indicator

There is, but for fish it takes hundreds of ppm to kill them. About the same as nitrate.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The max is 10ppm. I have a 125 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump. I did accidentally dose to much ammonia by adding 2oz of fritz Fishless fuel.

I’d ignore it. If accurate, it will decline.

 

[MnFish1]

The instructions say 5mL per 25gal will increase ammonia by 2ppm. In your 180gal system you would have needed 36mL (1.2oz) instead of 58mL (2oz).
https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fishless-fuel
This means you added 3.22ppm ammonia, which is still within the recommend 2-4ppm.

In theory this should result in up to 8.7ppm nitrite, but the system will have less than 180gal due to substrate and rocks so 10ppm seems like a reasonable test result.

I suppose it won't be much more than that and there is nothing to worry about
You are still extremely far away from dangerous nitrite levels and the nitrogen cycle will not be slowed down by these levels.

The tank volume is not necessarily the water volume

 

[EnterName]

The instructions say 5mL per 25gal will increase ammonia by 2ppm. In your 180gal system you would have needed 36mL (1.2oz) instead of 58mL (2oz).
https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fishless-fuel
This means you added 3.22ppm ammonia, which is still within the recommend 2-4ppm.

In theory this should result in up to 8.7ppm nitrite, but the system will have less than 180gal due to substrate and rocks so 10ppm seems like a reasonable test result.

I suppose it won't be much more than that and there is nothing to worry about
You are still extremely far away from dangerous nitrite levels and the nitrogen cycle will not be slowed down by these levels.

The tank volume is not necessarily the water volume

That's why I said "but the system will have less than 180gal due to substrate and rocks so 10ppm seems like a reasonable test result."

The given numbers are also a theoretical maximum as ammonia doesn't have to be converted to nitrate it can also be taken up by organisms such as algae.

 

[MnFish1]

That's why I said "but the system will have less than 180gal due to substrate and rocks so 10ppm seems like a reasonable test result."

The given numbers are also a theoretical maximum as ammonia doesn't have to be converted to nitrate it can also be taken up by organisms such as algae.

Thanks I didn't see that you mentioned that!!

 

[Freenow54]

Cycling a tank and it’s been awhile since I have done a new one. Ammonia is 0 but nitrites read as over max on reading and so does nitrates. (I understand nitrites will show as nitrates on the test). Should I do a water change to lower these numbers or just continue my waiting?

No relax let it do its thing keep adding Ammonia

 

[MnFish1]

No relax let it do its thing keep adding Ammonia

Curious - why keep adding ammonia. The solution is adding fish. The nitrites are harmless and nitrate is being produced? Just curious not criticizing.