Dan 85G build

[Dan Reef]

Hello!

My last tank unfortunately has leaked. Luckily it was a very small leak so no major problems arised from it.

I was a bit upset with the tank anyway.. lots of dinos, corals with some sort of unknown disease (bubbling) and with odd growth pattern.

Myself and my wife was also not satisfied with where the tank was in our living room. The leak end up being positive as I had a good justification to start over :).

This time I preferred to be extra cautious and requested bracers both at the base and at the top of the tank.

This is a 48x24x18 tank with the goal of having mixed corals mainly easy to keep sps and lps. While I do enjoy harder to keep species and the challenge, I have two your children to take care of so time is not appropriate.

Our living room is mostly white and the wife didn't want the black background... meaning a little extra work to keep all glasses clean.

When the tank leaked I had to transfer all the fish to a smaller tank I had. Many month has passed until I was able to build this one and some had died due to the small space I had. The ones in the pics are the strong ones that passed thru this difficult phase.

I'm happy to start over!

 

[World Citizen]

Looks great! Love the way the light is hanging!
Have fun :)

 

[Dan Reef]

Hello!

It's been a while..

I wanted to update on how the tank is going. During this month, the tank has gone thru a hard initial phase. A few days after the photos of my last post, where rocks and sand color were sterile white, the ugly phase has begun right after adding a few corals.

Initially with Amphidinium dinos. I was very upset with it, although knowing it's a new tank and it's natural to go thru this phase. This is because I could not win the battle against the same type of dinos in my last tank. Plus, the smell is horrible and took over all my living room.

I read carefully many threads on R2R and decided on a strategy reduce their population:

1. Increased temperature to 28ºC
2. PO4 and ammonia dosing
3. More constant water changes and syphoning the substrate where they primarily were

If I pick one of those above, I'd say dosing PO4 and ammonia is what worked best.

For a few days the tank was clean but then a ciano outbreak started and I've been battling with it since then. Although not happy seeing cianos, I'm relieved that this is the problem I have now in this new tank and not dinos!

This tank started with dead rock (Marco Rocks) BUT I wanted to test something new to me: I added 3kg of rhodolith (natural reef rocks that became round in shape due to be rolling in the ocean sand) in my sump. They were dead but still dirty. I didn't clean them and simply added to the tank with the goal of providing bacterial spores from the ocean and maybe some phosphates.

I'm saying this above because I believe this is also something that was in favor of winning the battle so quickly against Amphidinium dinos. It's well known that adding live rock to a tank is beneficial but with the impossibility of doing that, I wonder if using this type of rock without any sort of cleaning may give better results.

Corals and fish are doing fine. Ciano didn't seem to bother them.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Bacteria diversity plays a huge role in the outcome of our tanks.

Any chance I get to trade a rock, or grab a bit of sand from another locals tank I jump at it. Yes there is a risk of hitchhikers and introducing unwanted stuff to the tank but the diversity of bacteria from as many places as possible, including direct from the ocean I think greatly helps with stability and helps the tanks flourish.

I see a lot of people having issues starting with sterile tanks. bleached dry rock, and bagged live sand. It has been 20+ years since starting with a sterile tank (probably only have done it once) and it was a challenge.

Good luck with the tank!
I like the aquascape, very clean!

 

[TheWB]

Hello!

My last tank unfortunately has leaked. Luckily it was a very small leak so no major problems arised from it.

I was a bit upset with the tank anyway.. lots of dinos, corals with some sort of unknown disease (bubbling) and with odd growth pattern.

Myself and my wife was also not satisfied with where the tank was in our living room. The leak end up being positive as I had a good justification to start over :).

This time I preferred to be extra cautious and requested bracers both at the base and at the top of the tank.

This is a 48x24x18 tank with the goal of having mixed corals mainly easy to keep sps and lps. While I do enjoy harder to keep species and the challenge, I have two your children to take care of so time is not appropriate.

Our living room is mostly white and the wife didn't want the black background... meaning a little extra work to keep all glasses clean.

When the tank leaked I had to transfer all the fish to a smaller tank I had. Many month has passed until I was able to build this one and some had died due to the small space I had. The ones in the pics are the strong ones that passed thru this difficult phase.

I'm happy to start over!

Nice looking tank you have there. I'm curious about how you placed that MP40 on the back wall. Dry box behind a false wall? Please post some of the other details of your setup, overflow, plumbing, sump, etc...

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Hello!

It's been a while..

I wanted to update on how the tank is going. During this month, the tank has gone thru a hard initial phase. A few days after the photos of my last post, where rocks and sand color were sterile white, the ugly phase has begun right after adding a few corals.

Initially with Amphidinium dinos. I was very upset with it, although knowing it's a new tank and it's natural to go thru this phase. This is because I could not win the battle against the same type of dinos in my last tank. Plus, the smell is horrible and took over all my living room.

I read carefully many threads on R2R and decided on a strategy reduce their population:

1. Increased temperature to 28ºC
2. PO4 and ammonia dosing
3. More constant water changes and syphoning the substrate where they primarily were

If I pick one of those above, I'd say dosing PO4 and ammonia is what worked best.

For a few days the tank was clean but then a ciano outbreak started and I've been battling with it since then. Although not happy seeing cianos, I'm relieved that this is the problem I have now in this new tank and not dinos!

This tank started with dead rock (Marco Rocks) BUT I wanted to test something new to me: I added 3kg of rhodolith (natural reef rocks that became round in shape due to be rolling in the ocean sand) in my sump. They were dead but still dirty. I didn't clean them and simply added to the tank with the goal of providing bacterial spores from the ocean and maybe some phosphates.

I'm saying this above because I believe this is also something that was in favor of winning the battle so quickly against Amphidinium dinos. It's well known that adding live rock to a tank is beneficial but with the impossibility of doing that, I wonder if using this type of rock without any sort of cleaning may give better results.

Corals and fish are doing fine. Ciano didn't seem to bother them.

Glad to hear your coral and fish are doing fine! I think these are the kind of dinos we had in our tank when we had it set up!

 

[Dan Reef]

Nice looking tank you have there. I'm curious about how you placed that MP40 on the back wall. Dry box behind a false wall? Please post some of the other details of your setup, overflow, plumbing, sump, etc...

Hi!

I designed the tank and sent to build. The full tank measurement is 48". However, 4 inches from that is dedicated to the chamber in the right where there's the overflow in the middle (13") and two separate dry compartments in each side. I can place an additional MP40 in the back right if needed. Nothing special with the overflow, just two pipes plus the return. (I think it's called Herbie Overflow?)

If I were to do it again, I'll copy what Steve Weast did and completely hide all pumps. It's a similar design but the chambers are wet and the pumps are inside the two chambers where also the water is returned from the sump.

In the sump there's a Akula 160DC skimmer, Sicce touchless heater, ReefMat, COR20 for return and a basket with the rhodolith.

Once I get the chance I'll take some pictures!

Bacteria diversity plays a huge role in the outcome of our tanks.

Any chance I get to trade a rock, or grab a bit of sand from another locals tank I jump at it. Yes there is a risk of hitchhikers and introducing unwanted stuff to the tank but the diversity of bacteria from as many places as possible, including direct from the ocean I think greatly helps with stability and helps the tanks flourish.

I see a lot of people having issues starting with sterile tanks. bleached dry rock, and bagged live sand. It has been 20+ years since starting with a sterile tank (probably only have done it once) and it was a challenge.

Good luck with the tank!
I like the aquascape, very clean!

That's the main reason I added the rhodolith. We don't have access to live rock in Brazil as it's forbidden to collect. My guess is that adding dead non cleaned rocks directly from the ocean may be more beneficial than dry white sterile rock.

The rhodolit that I used was full of dead algae, dead micro fauna and possibly spores waiting for ideal conditions to multiply again. This is what I believe helped to win the battle agains dinos, something I was dealing with in my past tank for 2 years.

I even ordered a UV Sweeper and once it arrived (2 weeks later) the dinos were already gone!

Glad to hear your coral and fish are doing fine! I think these are the kind of dinos we had in our tank when we had it set up!

From my experience, dinos are the most challenging pest I ever deal with. I never imagined I'd be happy seeing cianos. They are not that bad.. they don't smell bad and has a pretty dark red color =)

 

[TheWB]

Hi!

I designed the tank and sent to build. The full tank measurement is 48". However, 4 inches from that is dedicated to the chamber in the right where there's the overflow in the middle (13") and two separate dry compartments in each side. I can place an additional MP40 in the back right if needed. Nothing special with the overflow, just two pipes plus the return. (I think it's called Herbie Overflow?)

If I were to do it again, I'll copy what Steve Weast did and completely hide all pumps. It's a similar design but the chambers are wet and the pumps are inside the two chambers where also the water is returned from the sump.

In the sump there's a Akula 160DC skimmer, Sicce touchless heater, ReefMat, COR20 for return and a basket with the rhodolith.

Once I get the chance I'll take some pictures!


That's the main reason I added the rhodolith. We don't have access to live rock in Brazil as it's forbidden to collect. My guess is that adding dead non cleaned rocks directly from the ocean may be more beneficial than dry white sterile rock.

The rhodolit that I used was full of dead algae, dead micro fauna and possibly spores waiting for ideal conditions to multiply again. This is what I believe helped to win the battle agains dinos, something I was dealing with in my past tank for 2 years.

I even ordered a UV Sweeper and once it arrived (2 weeks later) the dinos were already gone!



From my experience, dinos are the most challenging pest I ever deal with. I never imagined I'd be happy seeing cianos. They are not that bad.. they don't smell bad and has a pretty dark red color =)

I think I understand how you've got it set up. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Hi!

I designed the tank and sent to build. The full tank measurement is 48". However, 4 inches from that is dedicated to the chamber in the right where there's the overflow in the middle (13") and two separate dry compartments in each side. I can place an additional MP40 in the back right if needed. Nothing special with the overflow, just two pipes plus the return. (I think it's called Herbie Overflow?)

If I were to do it again, I'll copy what Steve Weast did and completely hide all pumps. It's a similar design but the chambers are wet and the pumps are inside the two chambers where also the water is returned from the sump.

In the sump there's a Akula 160DC skimmer, Sicce touchless heater, ReefMat, COR20 for return and a basket with the rhodolith.

Once I get the chance I'll take some pictures!


That's the main reason I added the rhodolith. We don't have access to live rock in Brazil as it's forbidden to collect. My guess is that adding dead non cleaned rocks directly from the ocean may be more beneficial than dry white sterile rock.

The rhodolit that I used was full of dead algae, dead micro fauna and possibly spores waiting for ideal conditions to multiply again. This is what I believe helped to win the battle agains dinos, something I was dealing with in my past tank for 2 years.

I even ordered a UV Sweeper and once it arrived (2 weeks later) the dinos were already gone!



From my experience, dinos are the most challenging pest I ever deal with. I never imagined I'd be happy seeing cianos. They are not that bad.. they don't smell bad and has a pretty dark red color =)

At least you were able to deal with the dinos! We had to shut our tank down due to them.

 

[Dan Reef]

Hello!

Cyanobacteria and Oxydator
A week ago I added a Sochting Oxydator with Hydrogen Peroxide 6%. It may be a coincidence but 4 days after the addition, cyano is completely gone!
On Friday there's still a small bit of cyano in the sandbed. I spend the weekend far from the tank and ,when I arrived, sand was clean too.

Neptune Trident
I'm seriously considering switching from the Trident to the Aquawiz. I'm using the Trident for some time now and, although it works fine for some time, it's time consuming as it constantly fails and some repair/ cleaning/ calibrating is necessary. I'm currently experiencing failure when I try to calibrate and Neptune doesn't know what's happening. They want me to send for repair, for the third time...


I need to take better pictures. IPhone doesn't help to balance the whites but here's some today photos:

Seriatopora Bird of Paradise and Acropora Red Table

Trumpets

Frog and Hologram hammer

Euphylia garden

Side view

Overflow and Vortechs

Nice looking tank you have there. I'm curious about how you placed that MP40 on the back wall. Dry box behind a false wall? Please post some of the other details of your setup, overflow, plumbing, sump, etc...

This is how the MP40 is positioned inside the dry chamber

This is how it looks from above. In the dry chamber there's a small hole for the cable. I can add pumps in each side of the overflow.

 

[Bohemian Waxwing]

Glorious

 

[Dan Reef]

Hello !

Aquawiz
I installed the Aquawiz and so far it's been pretty accurate against the Hanna and Fauna Marin tests.cI'm not using the doser pump that comes with it to control KH as I dose 3 part and the other 2 part would not follow the dosing amount of the KH part. I hope Aquawiz adds the possibility of dosing a fixed amount instead of only dosing based on the KH levels.

It's nice to have it connected to the Apex:

Flow
I'm having a hard time to have a good flow in the tank. I have 2 Vortech MP40, one in each side. However in the overflow side, I can only position very close to the front or back panel. Positioned like that, it creates a strong flow on the other side of the tank and blow all the sand. It also bother the hammer corals as the flow in this way only reach them from one side.

This is not a new picture, but I wanted to show what the flow does.

I'm truly thinking of removing this MP40 and positioning the other one a little more to the center of the glass. It's not my initial planning as I didn't want to have the pumps obstructing the view. It is also a little frustrating as I designed the tank to have the MP40s positioned in the overflow panel. I was not aware that it doesn't do well close to the front panel.

pH
The range is from 8.0 up to 8.3. It's not bad but it could be better. I'm still thinking in options... maybe kalkwasser, maybe a CO2 scrubber.
I don't want to have extras as I prefer to keep it simple. I don't know from those 2 options which would add less work.

Nutrients
It's challenging to keep PO4 and NO3 up. If I don't dose, dinos start to appear and corals start to react badly.
I prepared a solution with ammonium bicarbonate and monosodium phosphate. I was able to maintain a good NO3 level but not PO4..

I tested the solution and found there was not PO4 in it. Maybe I good a bad monosodium phosphate or it degraded in solution.

This article says it's possible to mix sodium phosphate with ammonium bicarbonate so I'll give it a try.

While I don't do that, I'm dosing the ammonium solution and Fauna Marin P daily.

 

[PPBlimpy]

How does your PH respond if you keep a window open all day? 8.0 to 8.3 is pretty good.
Can you run your skimmer line outside for fresh air?

Personally I do not think it is worth doing a C02 scrubber at that range.
and regarding Kalkawasser, If you need the Cal and Alk, I see the PH boost a bonus. But I wouldn't dose Kalkawasser for to target a certain PH since it will throw off alk and Cal to much. I believe soda ash works more toward the PH and less effect on cal and alk if those are steady.

I do dose Kalk to maintain cal and alk - as mentioned ph is a bonus, not the target.

 

[Dan Reef]

How does your PH respond if you keep a window open all day? 8.0 to 8.3 is pretty good.
Can you run your skimmer line outside for fresh air?

Personally I do not think it is worth doing a C02 scrubber at that range.
and regarding Kalkawasser, If you need the Cal and Alk, I see the PH boost a bonus. But I wouldn't dose Kalkawasser for to target a certain PH since it will throw off alk and Cal to much. I believe soda ash works more toward the PH and less effect on cal and alk if those are steady.

I do dose Kalk to maintain cal and alk - as mentioned ph is a bonus, not the target.

I live in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Most of the days are hot and usually windows are open. The tank is close to a window.

My current alk addition (sodium bicarbonate) has no effect on pH. I'd like to increase the pH just by a little, and maybe kalk is a nice option for that. Not to target pH, but to take advantage, as you do, of the increase.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Sounds like a solid plan. Especailly if you are already doing sodium bicarbonate you should be able to just replace with kalkwasser, monitor your Calc also.

 

[p1u5h13r4m24]

Hey welcome back to the hobby. In my many years I would have failed tanks that just got over run with Dino’s or cyano. I would start a new tank after I thought I could do better. My problem ended up revolving around nutrients bottoming out and lighting schedules being too long. Even today I will get occasional cyano and it is usually because my nutrients are out of balance. I’ve been pretty successful the that 4/5 years. Hopefully you get the tank you always wanted!
Good luck!

 

[Dan Reef]

Hello!

It's been a while since I don't update. July was school holidays and I took the month to travel with my family. Tank was ok without any intervention rather than a colleague cleaning the skimmer weekly and adding new water to the RO container.


CO2 Scrubber
During this time I put some thought on increasing the tank pH using a CO2 scrubber or kalkwasser. After some thought, I decided to use the CO2 scrubber as I didn't want to use the messy kalkwasser. My experience with kalk was not the best in the past also.

I got this nice motorized ball valve from Amazon. Will be posting news about the scrubber soon. The goal is to maintain the minimum pH of 8.2. If the pH is higher than that, the valve will switch to ambient air.

I'm currently dosing ammonium bicarbonate and trisodium phosphate. NO3 is around 12ppm and PO4 0.1mg/l. I recently reduced the ammonium dosage and notice an increase of brown dust (very likely dinos) in the sandbed.. not sure if there's a correlation.

Coral feeding

I enjoy feeding corals and today prepared my own coral food composed of: shrimp, squid, mussels, Fauna Marin Rebiotic, Fauna Marin Min S and Reef Roids. I'll post results after a few time using.

Coral health

Corals are generally healthy. Some acropora are showing growth signs but they are too dark/ brown and this is why I reduced the ammonia dosage.

Some pics below! I really need a better camera.

The beautiful orange tip elegance coral:

 

[Dan Reef]

Hello!

CO2 Scrubber
I recently installed the CO2 scrubber with the valve. I set it so that it pulls air from the scrubber when the pH is 8.25 or lower. When it's above, it switch to direct air. It's working well! I hope it gives good results in the long term.

Dinos.... again.
I was so happy to have a clear sand bed for a few month. This time I decided to use theUV Sweeper to battle. I'll post results.

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Tank completed 6 month. It's time for a full photo:

 

[Dan Reef]

Hi!

2026 update

Replaced Fauna Marin Balling Light to TM All For Reef
I was using FM product and even tried the "bolus method" more of a curiosity but I didn't see any benefit from this method. Don't get me wrong, FM product is excellent and corals were triving with it.

I wanted to use the Aquawiz auto KH dosing and, since it has only one dosing head, it's best to use with a single dosing solution. So I switched to TM All for Reef and so far, so good. Coral health remained the same after the switch. The new container hold 5 liters of solution that is good for 3 month so I don't have to replenish every 10 days as I had to do with FM product.

Not all corals are doing good...
Most of the corals are triving and growing with the exception of a few hammers. I suspect it's a bacterial thing and I'm planning to bath them with some antibiotic to confirm.

Lost 2 fishes
Unfortunately one Squamipini Anthia and one Green Chromis died. Not sure what was the cause but I suspect of the frozen food I made as both died after I fed them with it. No more frozen food in the tank.

Other than that, all is good! I need to buy more corals! There's a few spaces left.

Happy New Year to all!