Dead coral over night

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CoralClasher

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Covering the tank with a window screen didn’t stop the death.
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I believe it should be fragged that’s what most people are doing on tissue necrosis issues

mount some frags in different areas of the tank I know it’s harsh to chop that up but it seems only move now


I’m so sorry to have not seen such a malady before where the zos are open brightly behind the afflicted coral, there isn’t a wide spread irritant in this tank. Fish well, other lps seem open hopefully some of the ideas here pan out
 

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Sorry man. I would definitely frag some of that monti, do 5-10% water changes daily for a while, and check all pumps, heaters, and magnets for any corrosion or damage.
 
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I believe it should be fragged that’s what most people are doing on tissue necrosis issues

mount some frags in different areas of the tank I know it’s harsh to chop that up but it seems only move now


I’m so sorry to have not seen such a malady before where the zos are open brightly behind the afflicted coral, there isn’t a wide spread irritant in this tank. Fish well, other lps seem open hopefully some of the ideas here pan out
Yeah I’ve never had this happen before. I’ve had SPS not make it before but never seen flesh just melt away.
 
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Sorry man. I would definitely frag some of that monti, do 5-10% water changes daily for a while, and check all pumps, heaters, and magnets for any corrosion or damage.
Heaters are new but will check again, MP40’s cleaned yesterday and look good, algae clip is new, glass scraper is a year old but looks good. 30 gallon water change yesterday and 30 gallons water change just now. I’ll mix 30 more for tomorrow.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I wouldn’t do blackout it’s only my guess but thats a lighting extreme vs just dimming it a while like clouds on a reef vs full tropical intensity


it never harms any reef to dim and can help stop bleaching, although that above is one of the TN’s that’s not bleaching
 

fishguy242

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hi,run carbon ,remove ,add more carbon,3day change out then test again.
 

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Just had LFS test my water all parameters are good but copper is high. I tested my tap water 0.13, RODI 0.01, tank 0.19 using Hanna checker.
Yikes. Well, at least you've probably found the issue. LFS have Cuprisorb? Amazon Prime otherwise.

Odd your RODI is not filtering that, but maybe the source water is just too high. I dunno, but I'd be checking/replacing my membrane, carbon filter and DI. Otherwise the WCs are just adding to the problem. Good luck.
 
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Yikes. Well, at least you've probably found the issue. LFS have Cuprisorb? Amazon Prime otherwise.

Odd your RODI is not filtering that, but maybe the source water is just too high. I dunno, but I'd be checking/replacing my membrane, carbon filter and DI. Otherwise the WCs are just adding to the problem. Good luck.
RODI is 0.01 close enough to 0 LFS only had poly filter. Just got a new bucket of salt I’ll test the new saltwater for copper. Cubrisorb is on the way.
 

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I'd try the dip I mentioned in the thread I linked. It worked for my milli, and your slow tissue necrosis affecting LPS and SPS is very similar to mine. Seachem reef dip followed by Melafix, with a power head blowing on the affected area in the bucket.
 

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I had the same issue in my tank when I switched from T5 to LED and used the manufacturer's settings (don't ask). Within just a few days, all my coral looked like yours did. My lights are the only thing I changed so I know that's what caused it. The flesh was just disintegrating before my eyes.

I immediately changed the settings, but the damage was done and I continued to watch the coral die over the next few weeks. It was a terrible experience.

I wish you the best of luck.
 
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I had the same issue in my tank when I switched from T5 to LED and used the manufacturer's settings (don't ask). Within just a few days, all my coral looked like yours did. My lights are the only thing I changed so I know that's what caused it. The flesh was just disintegrating before my eyes.

I immediately changed the settings, but the damage was done and I continued to watch the coral die over the next few weeks. It was a terrible experience.

I wish you the best of luck.
You are making a good case for new lights. None of the buttons work on my lights and now the master that I can set the time on won’t let me adjust anything in the day controller app. All I know is lights still turn on and off automatically so the timer is still working. Long story but the lights aren’t that old and have been sent to coralvue four times for white LED burnt out.
 

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You are making a good case for new lights. None of the buttons work on my lights and now the master that I can set the time on won’t let me adjust anything in the day controller app. All I know is lights still turn on and off automatically so the timer is still working. Long story but the lights aren’t that old and have been sent to coralvue four times for white LED burnt out.

One of the things I changed with my STN experience was my lighting spectrum. The glass tops were cloudy and I acid-washed them. I also changed 2/4 of my T5 lamps. I had made no changes to lighting prior to seeing symptoms. Maybe that's part of the stress though. I noticed more cyano in my journey so that's what initally made me think it might be related to lighting.
 

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You are making a good case for new lights. None of the buttons work on my lights and now the master that I can set the time on won’t let me adjust anything in the day controller app. All I know is lights still turn on and off automatically so the timer is still working. Long story but the lights aren’t that old and have been sent to coralvue four times for white LED burnt out.

That's a shame about the lights. Maybe it's time to cut your losses with Coralvue and move on? I've run into things like that with vendors where you go back and forth and back and forth only to waste a pile of your time and not get any resolution in the end. The only thing left to do might be leave a bunch of bad reviews and shop for another brand.

I hate to put it this way (so please don't take offense), but now might be the best time to move on and switch lights. You don't have to worry about new lights and a bunch of different settings killing all your coral.
 
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That's a shame about the lights. Maybe it's time to cut your losses with Coralvue and move on? I've run into things like that with vendors where you go back and forth and back and forth only to waste a pile of your time and not get any resolution in the end. The only thing left to do might be leave a bunch of bad reviews and shop for another brand.

I hate to put it this way (so please don't take offense), but now might be the best time to move on and switch lights. You don't have to worry about new lights and a bunch of different settings killing all your coral.
I had pre ordered the new coral care lights when coralVue said there was going to be pre order sale. Canceled the order just because I found out that CoralVue was handling the warranties. Now BRS is sold out of the ATI Straton smh.
 

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I had pre ordered the new coral care lights when coralVue said there was going to be pre order sale. Canceled the order just because I found out that CoralVue was handling the warranties. Now BRS is sold out of the ATI Straton smh.

Looks like Marine Depot has them in stock as long as you don't need more than 6 of them or have a credit with BRS. :)

 
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New lights are on the way. Poly filter isn’t turning blue. Cupriorb just showed up and the directions say 250ml per 150 gallons to remove 12ppm copper how much should I use?
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Privateye

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New lights are on the way. Poly filter isn’t turning blue. Cupriorb just showed up and the directions say 250ml per 150 gallons to remove 12ppm copper how much should I use?
8C9FCBEA-D72C-4DBB-BB4F-3987C5600D66.jpeg

Honestly, when I have seen this level of tissue loss in response to copper all corals were affected. It was due to installing a new pump at a store, which we found out had a brass seal in it (don't buy pool pumps for coral). The poly pad turned blue from that.

I'm wondering what concentration would produce that change in the pad. What did your LFS test your copper at? I only saw your tap water concentrations, but maybe I missed it. Do you use tap water as your source water? No RO/DI?
 

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