You can run the skimmer with no collection cup, thats what I did.
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You have the Seachem badge, I wouldn't even bother with the API ammonia test at this point.I am monitoring, but what’s concerning me the most is my seachem badge is showing 0 but the api test is showing 0.25to0.5. People have told me the apis can be really inaccurate but it still had me worries. Preparing to act would be doing a large water change?
Ok very good to hear. That api test giving me panic attacks. If the seachem shows an ammonia spike I should do a water change and put in a neutralizer?You have the Seachem badge, I wouldn't even bother with the API ammonia test at this point.
Unfortunately, cycling with fish is a hold over from the days before bottled bacteria, and a lot of people still give people that advice. That said, it’s not a guarantee that the fish will suffer, if your ammonia badge is saying zero, and the API test is showing 0.25-0.50ppm, I’d trust the badge (plus API tests total ammonia, not free ammonia which is what is toxic, 0.25ppm total ammonia is about 0.01 free ammonia (there is a graph you can google). My point was just that you should always verify that the tank is cycled before adding any livestock, many tanks cycle in a matter of days (if not hours) these days, but you should still verify. A lot of people in the hobby take a lot of unnecessary risks with livestock (this is far from the only way they do),nobody’s husbandry is perfect, but I personally think it’s important to take the route least likely to harm the livestock. I don’t think you did anything wrong, you were given bad/conflicting advice, but my advice would be to always take the more conservative/less risky approach (at least until you’re more experienced and know where you can safely cut corners).I am monitoring, but what’s concerning me the most is my seachem badge is showing 0 but the api test is showing 0.25to0.5. People have told me the apis can be really inaccurate but it still had me worries. Preparing to act would be doing a large water change?
Thank you, and yes I will definitely be taking the conservative route in the future. Even if this turns out fine the stress and worry of potentially harming the livestock is just not worth itUnfortunately, cycling with fish is a hold over from the days before bottled bacteria, and a lot of people still give people that advice. That said, it’s not a guarantee that the fish will suffer, if your ammonia badge is saying zero, and the API test is showing 0.25-0.50ppm, I’d trust the badge (plus API tests total ammonia, not free ammonia which is what is toxic, 0.25ppm total ammonia is about 0.01 free ammonia (there is a graph you can google). My point was just that you should always verify that the tank is cycled before adding any livestock, many tanks cycle in a matter of days (if not hours) these days, but you should still verify. A lot of people in the hobby take a lot of unnecessary risks with livestock (this is far from the only way they do),nobody’s husbandry is perfect, but I personally think it’s important to take the route least likely to harm the livestock. I don’t think you did anything wrong, you were given bad/conflicting advice, but my advice would be to always take the more conservative/less risky approach (at least until you’re more experienced and know where you can safely cut corners).
But, given that you’re not seeing a massive ammonia spike, you’re probably in the clear and your fish will be fine, just keep a close eye on them, keep testing (and log test results), you should see the ammonia level go down in the next couple days (though you may never get a true 0ppm with the API test kit).
Thank you so much for the advice!I think you will be okay. If you feel the product is not working, biospira can be found at petco and it is pretty fast acting stuff. I have used it in emergency situations for QT fish.
That being said, setting up a tank this way is not my preferred method. It is already done, but definitely take your time in this hobby It is not a race to the finish line but a journey.
Red Sea has an ammonia test kit I would trust a lot more then API if it helps your anxiety.
Thank you so much, I’m feeling much better now. The one I was concerned with is moving and pretty active this morning but it’s really reassuring to know they just act weird like that sometimesPretty much echoing what everyone else said....
- API Ammonia test is garbage. Throw it out. I like the Salifert one instead. Probably do daily tests for the near future.
- Have some saltwater mixed, heated and ready to go if the ammonia badge and/or your Salifert test alert. An emergency water change will knock it back down and will not disturb the cycle.
- Clowns have some really weird behavior. Don't read too much into it. My two guys slept every night on top of the return pump nozzle for the first 6 months. The first time I saw it, I thought they were dead.
- Regular, weekly water changes will save your fish and corals while you are moving through through the learning curve.
- This hobby can be surprisingly stressful until you get the hang of it. There will be some setbacks unfortunately. It is part of the learning experience. I am 5 years in and just now getting to the point where I feel comfortable with my tank. The journey is fun though. You can do it.
Brs’s beginner series?? What is this?If you've added more bacteria than the bottle suggests and have rock and filter media, you're gravy. If the fish stop acting derpy and hang out gasping, then do something. Get a good nitrate test kit, salifert seems to be a popular name, I use hanna but you don't need to spend that much now. If nitrates are present you have a cycle.
Saltwater takes time.
For research, I liked brs's beginner series. And if there is anyone in this thread you can trust it's @Jay Hemdal