Dinoflagellate Wars - I'm Losing badly, Help!

BRS
OP
C

ChrisP

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
60
Reaction score
12
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Look at post 863 @ChrisP



dinos cannot beat that. It’s the strongest cyano and dino control method available

it’s just hard to run in large tanks, in small tanks it’s as easy as pie
As you can see, nearly all those are large tanks and few are small easy ones, that collection was resolved folks they didn’t care how big the tank was at all, they took the clinch win.


if you take the average price of a large reef tank and multiply it out 45 pages, you have examples of rip cleans worth two million dollars right there in that link.

we never lose a single tank.

this is the step:

take tank apart and set corals and rocks to the side or in a bucket of clean holding water

take the sand into a bucket and tap rinse it with a hose for an hour until it’s 100% clear

then rinse it again, we said 100% clear, final rinse in ro water to evacuate tap. Your sand is now dino free


you can spray peroxide on the rocks emerged outside the tank, avoiding corals, let sit a minute then swish off rocks in clean holding water to jet off killed dinos cells

see how that’s opposite from dosing peroxide


then reassemble the reef with all new water, rip clean done. Of course it doesn’t cause harm it causes the after pics we collect for years. take an hour, read more than one example past Aquamans work, be familiar with reef tank surgery then do it


youll likely need to siphon out regrowth in a couple weeks to hand guide it like a garden, since following large tankers rules has seated the dinos into every crevice, but that nano will never be invaded again.


the price of rip cleans saving reefs is we have to take pics of the steps so I can use them in that thread and everyone has a comparative example to work from to match their tank, to help others. Take good pics of all the work

we didn’t use bottle bac at all, for six years there, because we don’t need bottle bac after a cycle that’s what trained buyers do. In that thread, we take command for free.

light peroxide spray onto rocks does not kill the filtration bacteria, and sandbed bacteria are not important in any reef they’re mere tolerable bioload we can rip away any time we want


that would sound like a crazy man claim were it not fully proven above w pics and eight month outcome tracking for some reefs there
Thanks so much for the explanation of RIP cleaning. Just a few questions.
1. Wouldn't it be better to just replace the sand in such a small tank?
2. Prior to this dino outbreak I purchased 7 berghia nudibranchs to deal with my aptasia. I know at least a couple of them are still alive. I'm worried that some could be buried in the sans or hiding in the rocks. I'd hate to kill them. They were expensive and I need their help.
3. From what you've written it sounds like there is a specific article or articles on RIP cleaning. Would you mind directing me to them.
4. After I do the RIP cleaning should I replace the Seachem Matrix bio media or keep it to help with the new cycle?
(I'd send a photo but I just thoroughly siphoned out the dinos yeasterday. Thgey should be back by tomorrow)
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
View Badges
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Messages
20,354
Reaction score
16,758
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
tejas

read this one

1.yes thats an option. pre rinse all new sand in tap, then ro, just the same, find no reason to skip that process. if you are installing sand its pre rinsed to cloudless perfection.

2. you'll have to decide on nudis vs total tank command in two hours.

3. that link above is what you should copy, look at the doubt written by others for the procedure vs the outcome, and updates.

4. seachem matrix biomedia is not required or integral in any possible reef setting. it is literally neutral impact, to remove it does not shortchange the system on surface area whatsoever, we could remove it, not put it back, remove your whole sandbed, not put it back, and your tank will look like above. If you want to add the matrix back you can, as its neutral. your system doesnt care if its there or not.
 
OP
C

ChrisP

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
60
Reaction score
12
Review score
+0 /0 /-0

read this one

1.yes thats an option. pre rinse all new sand in tap, then ro, just the same, find no reason to skip that process. if you are installing sand its pre rinsed to cloudless perfection.

2. you'll have to decide on nudis vs total tank command in two hours.

3. that link above is what you should copy, look at the doubt written by others for the procedure vs the outcome, and updates.

4. seachem matrix biomedia is not required or integral in any possible reef setting. it is literally neutral impact, to remove it does not shortchange the system on surface area whatsoever, we could remove it, not put it back, remove your whole sandbed, not put it back, and your tank will look like above. If you want to add the matrix back you can, as its neutral. your system doesnt care if its there or not.
Thanks again for your help Brandon!
 
Fritz

Ghost25

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
234
Reaction score
238
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
What brand did you use? And how much?? Did you also use dry?Thanks
KP aquatics 23lbs in a 20 gallon tank. No dry rock, I used bagged live sand which I replaced a few times.

The rock was definitely covered with life. I got live crabs, urchins, tunicates, Coraline, a lightbulb anemone, feather dusters, fire worms and bristle worms, multiple green algae, etc.

Possible causes: dinos introduced from a frag, I added macro algae because it looked cool and it dropped the nutrients to zero, hair algae introduced by a frag dropped nutrients.
 

Jrain904

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
959
Reaction score
1,328
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
DUUUUVAL
KP aquatics 23lbs in a 20 gallon tank. No dry rock, I used bagged live sand which I replaced a few times.

The rock was definitely covered with life. I got live crabs, urchins, tunicates, Coraline, a lightbulb anemone, feather dusters, fire worms and bristle worms, multiple green algae, etc.

Possible causes: dinos introduced from a frag, I added macro algae because it looked cool and it dropped the nutrients to zero, hair algae introduced by a frag dropped nutrients.
I had dinos with kp for about a week. I documented it in my build thread. Now zero. Odd you had a different experience.
 
Maxout

Reef junky 305

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
36
Reaction score
20
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
I beat dinos with wet skimming -micro bacter7-and a uv sterilizer.....the return on the uv sterilizer was over filter floss to remove as much as I could with filter floss I also added filter floss too my drains to help with manualy removing as much as I could and within a few day they where gone...I didn't do no water changes as that helps dinos reproduce faster....I also fed a bit heavy too raise nitrates and phosphates......hope this helps I know I beat dinos within 4-5 days
 
BRS

Do you quarantine new coral before adding it to your reef tank?

  • YES always

    Votes: 81 17.5%
  • Sometimes depending (tell us why)

    Votes: 56 12.1%
  • NO never

    Votes: 313 67.6%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 13 2.8%
Industrial Test Systems, Inc.
Top