Dinos caused by adding a tank?

[Nor'easter Reefer]

I feel like I read somewhere that plumbing in a new tank, whether it be a frag or maybe a species specific display tank, into a existing system has a tendency to cause dino/GHA/cyano/etc outbreaks. It this true? I want a clam, but I have a copperband in my display. I'm considering a clam tank down in the basement. Plumbed up to my sump. But dont want a headache created by adding it

 

[mcarroll]

Any time you start a new tank, it's possible to get a round of The Uglies.

If you can start with real live rock or even by moving some rock from your main display as well as using only water from your main system (stockpile old waterchange water until you have enough) it should be MUCH more smooth.

 

[Nor'easter Reefer]

Any time you start a new tank, it's possible to get a round of The Uglies.

If you can start with real live rock or even by moving some rock from your main display as well as using only water from your main system (stockpile old waterchange water until you have enough) it should be MUCH more smooth.

Im planning to be plumbed into my main system entirely. Basically another chamber of my sump. That said, I swear I read that people have complained that by doing just that, they had a Dino outbreak or something. I can deal with regular uglies on new rock and such, but a new tank full of dinos sounds depressing haha. Maybe i'm wrong but I really feel like i read this somewhere..

I'll prep by curing rock in my sump with no lights for a month or two before ever setting up the tank. Maybe longer if I get busy with life haha

Edit: i reread your response and i'm pretty sure misunderstood you a bit the first time. I re-explained for no reason it seems haha

 

[Fish Fan]

My take on this, from what I've seen personally and here on R2R, if you add dry rock and light it, it's going to grow uglies

If you add real, wet live rock it should greatly minimize any uglies. If you have dry rock, consider cycling it for arguably as long as possible in a dark sump or separately in a dark Brute container, etc. This is thought to help keep the uglies down when the rock is put under the lights.

I'm following to see what others think is best; good luck!

 

[mcarroll]

I'll prep by curing rock in my sump with no lights for a month or two

Starting with dead rock is better than nothing.

And your plan is better than just dumping it in the tank.

But starting with real live rock is a different thing. Better.

 

[MegabiteOG]

I’ve done it on the past with no issue. I assume if your tank has ultra low nutrients already, adding a new system and new water can zero things out causing issues. If your total volume isn’t going up by too much(, I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

 

[MegabiteOG]

Great point that new rock and sand can create some issues as they cycle. Slowly adding some rock at a time until pieces cycle may prev3nt most of that.

 

[Nor'easter Reefer]

My take on this, from what I've seen personally and here on R2R, if you add dry rock and light it, it's going to grow uglies

If you add real, wet live rock it should greatly minimize any uglies. If you have dry rock, consider cycling it for arguably as long as possible in a dark sump or separately in a dark Brute container, etc. This is thought to help keep the uglies down when the rock is put under the lights.

I'm following to see what others think is best; good luck!

That was my plan, I can handle uglies. I just hope it doesnt cause dinos haha. I already have my system going, things are stable, mostly pest free, so i'm really hesitant to add any real live rock(like Tampa Bay live rock) as I've bought it for another tank and got a couple pests, including a flat worm species thats very prolific in that tank right now. My main system is fighting dinos currently, but I seem to be on the downhill side of it now. I figure if I start rocks in a dark sump now, beat the dinos and wait another month or two I should be fine, but I'd hate to start a fresh new batch of dinos

 

[Nor'easter Reefer]

Starting with dead rock is better than nothing.

And your plan is better than just dumping it in the tank.

But starting with real live rock is a different thing. Better.

I just replied to Fish Fan about this as well but i'm super hesitant to add real live rock, like Tampa Bay, as I've have some issues in the past(all manageable) and i have enough corals and getting good growth that I'd be scared of introducing some sort of terrible new pest. I suppose i could start my new tank, but dont plumb it into my new system, let it sit and stabilize for a few months and watch for pests, but i have a 2.5 year old and a 2 month old so easy is the goal right now haha. I would love to only have one set of water parameters to monitor to maintain my acros and my clam. I think I'll probably try the curing dry rock approach. I'm in no rush, and could cure it for a couple months, add a light, but keep the intensity wayyyy wayyy low. Let everything balance out, then eventually add CUC and other live stock.

 

[Indiana Reefin]

When I upgraded from a 9 gallon to a 25 gallon I got Dino’s. I added only base rock and I changed my substrate to reborn calcium reactor media. The new rock and substrate absorbed all of my nutrients in the water column and caused an imbalance. Dino’s and GHA took over. I had to restart my system:
100% water change
Removed all substrate
Dipped all base rock in hydrogen peroxide
Dipped all corals in hydrogen peroxide
Added UV sterilizer
Added 10 lbs of live rock
Set my tank temperature up to 83 degrees
After tank stabilized added sand
Added corals back in.


I would highly recommend just starting your tank with live rock and wait until it cycles before connecting your old system to your new system.

 

[Nor'easter Reefer]

I’ve done it on the past with no issue. I assume if your tank has ultra low nutrients already, adding a new system and new water can zero things out causing issues. If your total volume isn’t going up by too much(, I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

Yea i'm in the 5-10nitrates .05-.08 phos range. I think i'd go bare bottom on the one, less maintenance and I intend for a low fish load. Mainly clams, and some snails. Maybe a couple basic, low risk to clam fish. Algae eaters mostly. I have a spare 40 ish gallon bow front i was considering using as i figured the height would look cool with a couple clams and some acros.

From what I gather, everyone's saying the issue is mostly in the rocks, its not from adding a clean barren tank.

Don't sink nutrients, dont add a ton of dead rock all at once, dont crank lighting while things stabilize.