DIY 45b Sump...does THIS Look like it will work?

[Drewbacca]

Basic sump desired. Got glass baffless from glass shop. 4@8" 1@9". (1@8" is just extra as of now)
Skimmer needs to be in 7-8" water.
Excited to silicone them in today, but would like to get opinions and thoughts first in case something should be different. ?..?
Also, what (safe once cured) epoxy from lowes or HD should I use for acrylic builds(filter sock holder ATO box etc)

Thanks!

 

[cracker]

should work fine . Please consider making the skimmer section smaller & maybe the baffles more narrow. Could even take a little smaller . This will add to space in the refugium. As for the adhesive ? I'd use silicone . Just rough up the edges so the silicone will stick better . it's easy to move a wall if wanted In the future. Silicone & acrylic has never failed on me in a sump. You could use glass . This also frees up the tank for a future use with out permanent baffles/ walls. Good luck with the build !

 

[Drewbacca]

should work fine . Please consider making the skimmer section smaller & maybe the baffles more narrow. Could even take a little smaller . This will add to space in the refugium. As for the adhesive ? I'd use silicone . Just rough up the edges so the silicone will stick better . it's easy to move a wall if wanted In the future. Silicone & acrylic has never failed on me in a sump. You could use glass . This also frees up the tank for a future use with out permanent baffles/ walls. Good luck with the build !

Thanks, I'm Not putting a fuge in,(skimmer in middle, but enough room in drain in case I want a fuge in middle later) or is skimmer better in drain area and bio block in middle or doesnt matter?

 

[cracker]

Not it really matters

 

[Sod Buster]

I'd use silicone . Just rough up the edges so the silicone will stick better . it's easy to move a wall if needed

 

[Sod Buster]

Be leery of that block unless the aluminum leaching problem is fixed.

 

[Drewbacca]

Thanks! Im still at the stage in this hobby where Knowledge is like the Hydra... each answered question creates 3 more questions!

 

[Erica-Renee]

I would shrink the Filter sock area to just the size you need for the socks. With just a over then under baffle into the skimmer chamber , Make that chamber big enough for your skimmer and Media block. then The return chamber as large as you can and add another bubble baffle before the return pump...

Here is my 150 gallon sump. You do not as much Return pump area but this sump runs two Large tanks that have long runs on the Drain and return lines. I get about 30 gallons of Drain back water when the pumps are turned off..

 

[P-Dub]

Looks good. You have good advice so far. I prefer an under-over-under baffle setup after the skimmer to minimize the possibility of bubbles entering the return chamber. If you are going to build things with acrylic, gluing acrylic to acrylic, I would use Weld-On acrylic cement and not super glue.

 

[Drewbacca]

I would shrink the Filter sock area to just the size you need for the socks. With just a over then under baffle into the skimmer chamber , Make that chamber big enough for your skimmer and Media block. then The return chamber as large as you can and add another bubble baffle before the return pump...

Here is my 150 gallon sump. You do not as much Return pump area but this sump runs two Large tanks that have long runs on the Drain and return lines. I get about 30 gallons of Drain back water when the pumps are turned off..

Wow..that's impressive. Thanks, for your help! Greatly appreciated to all. I am running a reef ready 90 on a stand directly above.. I might get 3 gallons of back water if the pump stops. That baffle height should allow 4- 5gal. (If pump chamber operating level is 6 to 7")
Only reason I have 12" for sock area is so I can fit a bubble magnus filter roller eventually. (15"x12)
The bio block will fit on its side with skimmer as is. 8x8x4" & 8" high chamber.
My biggest concern is baffle gap..I dont want the flow to be too fast so the skimmer has more time to process water, but I want enough space to be able to fit chemipure bags on an egg crate shelf.
SO MANY QUESTIONS...I have a 55g I've been running for 3 years with canister filter & hob skimmer and I'm upgrading to 90 and this sump... rock has mojos on it that im trying to irradicate...do I run sump on 55 to get water better quality first?...do I transfer rock or get all new?(bio block has been seeding in sump at local aqua reef fish store for 2 weeks so with all that good bacteria can I just add new rock or does it need cured still? HYDRA!

 

[Drewbacca]

Looks good. You have good advice so far. I prefer an under-over-under baffle setup after the skimmer to minimize the possibility of bubbles entering the return chamber. If you are going to build things with acrylic, gluing acrylic to acrylic, I would use Weld-On acrylic cement and not super glue.

Thanks, I really want to leave room for roller mat filter, but maybe I should just stick to socks and slide everything to the right. Besides sliding to the right, Is this better for 3rd bubble wall? I think the under like you suggested will also help the skimmer area water move height low and not just flow across the top of the chamber. Also made space 1" instead of 1.5" should bottom gap be 1" also or is 1.5" fine?

 

[Drewbacca]

Looks good. You have good advice so far. I prefer an under-over-under baffle setup after the skimmer to minimize the possibility of bubbles entering the return chamber. If you are going to build things with acrylic, gluing acrylic to acrylic, I would use Weld-On acrylic cement and not super glue.

Looks good. You have good advice so far. I prefer an under-over-under baffle setup after the skimmer to minimize the possibility of bubbles entering the return chamber. If you are going to build things with acrylic, gluing acrylic to acrylic, I would use Weld-On acrylic cement and not super glue.

Weld On is what I tried to find to use, but it's not at Lowes, so I didnt know if something else would work for acrylic ATO box and sock holder. I'll just order Weld On online. Thanks!

 

[Sod Buster]

Good advice on the bubble triple wall as they want to float, but flow through the sump dictates the time they have to float & pop. All good questions and some people have different ideas. Your return pump gallons per hour will dictate how fast or slow the flow through the sump is.

 

[Drewbacca]

Can a refugium be before the skimmer? (Split the first section front to back into sock overflow and fuge)
OR if fuge is in middle do skimmers perform well in first chamber with socks?

 

[Sod Buster]

Fuge 1st before skimmer so that algae gets that dirty water. If you have dual drains, you can drain into both sides of the sump & give the fuge & skimmer equal yum w/ the return pump near the middle getting fed from both sides. Be sure to black out the refugium or use solid color acrylic, unless you want your sump full of nuisance algae.

 

[Drewbacca]

Nice! Thankd, I like that idea. So, I have a reef ready single drain and return but I could T off my drain or make both bottom bulkheads be plumbed for drains and run the return up over the back of the display. Does having the fuge on the other end of the sump and pump in middle make it possible for algae or bio particles to be flowing over into pump and clogging it up?

 

[billwill]

For what you’re doing, you only need those last two baffles on the far left to set your constant slimmer height. The other baffles only useful if you’re running a fuge. And even then only one of the two baffle plates required.

 

[Drewbacca]

So totals paralysis by analysis! Still haven't put baffles in...Help!
I only have 4 @8" and a 9" baffle pre cut.. but since I now want to run a fuge and have some black plexi laying around, I am going to silicone it against the sturdy glass baffles in a few spots to get a little more height and block out fuge light...will this work?
I want the fuge flow to go bottom to top.
Is half inch diff on last baffles ok and is 1 diff on first baffles ok?
2 inch bottom gap ok for going into fuge?
Thanks!

 

[redfishbluefish]

Agree with no need for bubble traps until you get to your return pump....so between first and second sections, just a single baffle.

If you're using acrylic to glass, you'll want this silicone:

Found at HD, but not with all the other caulks in the paint department. You'll have to go to were they sell acrylic sheets (window department in my HD) and find this caulk there.

Last note, whatever silicone you use, let it cure for as long as you can.....I like a week.

 

[Sod Buster]

All good suggestions so far. You plan a low flow sump. Over under will be fine to the return section. You can always put the skimmer on a stand to raise it up so the sump adds more gallons to the system. Be careful with that media block near any vibration also, as they are fragile and will disintegrate over time. Make sure the skimmer purrs softer than a kitten or it will be dust in 6 months. Plan how the baffles will hang or sit while the silicone cures, and the easiest order to assemble so you can still get product to the seams. 100% silicone is reef friendly, but if you can smell it, it is not fully cured. Big tubes are easy with a gun, keep a small foil one for tight spots the gun won't fit or reach. Cut the big tubes nozzle small & shove a poker in the end to open the tube before you squeeze or you'll have a mess w/ product all over the baffles or your right wrist. Pick up a little pump to spin or rotate the cheato around and have fun. 1 more thing, lower your filter socks down some for safety. When they get plugged, the bypass needs to get to the return, or just lean the bracket you build into the sump to shed water.