DIY AIO

seder710

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I am new to Salt Water and want to do a FOWLR in my 40g acrylic tank. I am still in the research stages and trying to plan out my tank as best I can.

I am considering modifying my 40-gallon acrylic tank into an AIO. Since I already have the tank, I figured I would (hopefully) save some money converting this tank rather than buying a new AIO. I'd love a bigger tank, but also considering the Fluval 13.5 EVO as an "easier" alternative.

I do not have room for a sump so AIO is the next best option in order to hide all the equipment.

Here is the tank I have: 40 gallon SeaClear Acrylic
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/tanks...iums/seaclear-40-gallon-aquarium-5073937.html

I would like to put the AIO unit at the back (Open to the side, but would rather be in the back) based on the current layout of the top I would need to cut out some of the acrylic to make it accessible. Will cutting out part of the acrylic top alter the structural integrity of the tank? (the acrylic is 1/4" material)

Here is a layout of the top of the tank...
tank top.jpg

Here is what I think I want to cut out for access to the filter.

tank top altered.jpg


Here is one of the AIO Build Idea threads I've been reading for ideas, I've also looked at some youtube videos: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aio-20l-diy-build.79473/

For the return pump is a 400 gph pump enough? I found this one that looks decent, but I'm not really sure what to look for so any suggestions would be great.


I have a couple of designs for the AIO compartment I want to build that I've Frankenstein together based on other AIO... I would love your opinions on the best design for the filter compartments.

I plan to use 1/8" or 1/4" acrylic, I have seen them built with both types of material so I'm not sure which is best.
IMG-2473.jpg
 

T-J

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I'm not an acrylic expert, so I can't answer those questions. But, if it's just a FOWLR tank, why not just use a canister filter?
 
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seder710

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I'm not an acrylic expert, so I can't answer those questions. But, if it's just a FOWLR tank, why not just use a canister filter?
I have it on a long counter top and will not be able to put a canister filter below it. I also read a few places that canister filters were harder to maintain for saltwater since you change out the filter floss stuff more regularly... I may totally be wrong, I am 100% new to this.
 

Troylee

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I am new to Salt Water and want to do a FOWLR in my 40g acrylic tank. I am still in the research stages and trying to plan out my tank as best I can.

I am considering modifying my 40-gallon acrylic tank into an AIO. Since I already have the tank, I figured I would (hopefully) save some money converting this tank rather than buying a new AIO. I'd love a bigger tank, but also considering the Fluval 13.5 EVO as an "easier" alternative.

I do not have room for a sump so AIO is the next best option in order to hide all the equipment.

Here is the tank I have: 40 gallon SeaClear Acrylic
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/tanks...iums/seaclear-40-gallon-aquarium-5073937.html

I would like to put the AIO unit at the back (Open to the side, but would rather be in the back) based on the current layout of the top I would need to cut out some of the acrylic to make it accessible. Will cutting out part of the acrylic top alter the structural integrity of the tank? (the acrylic is 1/4" material)

Here is a layout of the top of the tank...
tank top.jpg

Here is what I think I want to cut out for access to the filter.

tank top altered.jpg


Here is one of the AIO Build Idea threads I've been reading for ideas, I've also looked at some youtube videos: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aio-20l-diy-build.79473/

For the return pump is a 400 gph pump enough? I found this one that looks decent, but I'm not really sure what to look for so any suggestions would be great.


I have a couple of designs for the AIO compartment I want to build that I've Frankenstein together based on other AIO... I would love your opinions on the best design for the filter compartments.

I plan to use 1/8" or 1/4" acrylic, I have seen them built with both types of material so I'm not sure which is best.
IMG-2473.jpg

Those tanks are made with very thin acrylic to begin with so yes it will alter the structural integrity without a doubt! It’s possible to do as long as you build a beefy wall for the aio to make up for it. The wall would need to glue to the bottom and back with a nice solvent weld.. that will take the stress off the euro since there not much water behind the wall.. I’d leave as much material as possible also on the euro where the wall is to be built.. 1” or so..
 
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seder710

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Those tanks are made with very thin acrylic to begin with so yes it will alter the structural integrity without a doubt! It’s possible to do as long as you build a beefy wall for the aio to make up for it. The wall would need to glue to the bottom and back with a nice solvent weld.. that will take the stress off the euro since there not much water behind the wall.. I’d leave as much material as possible also on the euro where the wall is to be built.. 1” or so..
The acrylic is 1/4" thick, I can take a better picture of the tank if I need to.

Are you saying to leave 1" if possible behind the 2 large openings? (I'm not entirely sure which part your are referring to when you say "euro"

I plan to glue/weld/silicon the AIO to the bottom and the back, I was not planning to attach it to the top... are you suggesting I do attach to the top?

Is this a big enough concern I should just consider buying a premade AIO?
 

Troylee

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The acrylic is 1/4" thick, I can take a better picture of the tank if I need to.

Are you saying to leave 1" if possible behind the 2 large openings? (I'm not entirely sure which part your are referring to when you say "euro"

I plan to glue/weld/silicon the AIO to the bottom and the back, I was not planning to attach it to the top... are you suggesting I do attach to the top?

Is this a big enough concern I should just consider buying a premade AIO?
Euro is what we call the top brace on tanks.
Here and here… doesn’t look like there’s much meat left… I think you got it laid out for just the thickness of the back wall and only a 1/2” supporting the front.. it all needs to be solvent welded, silicone doesn’t stick to plastic at all.. if I were to use that tank I think I’d make a external box on the back and leave the top bracing alone. You could build your all in one deal and drill a couple holes in the back of the tank to create a overflow and return.. make the box up and glue it on the back of the tank and be safe.
IMG_9969.jpeg
 

boogie79

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How often do you clean out your canister? What all media do you have in it?
I've had it since December and have rinsed the foams twice. I changed out the phosphate pads once. I have phosphate remover, charcoal, one portion is filled with bio rings and stuck some filter floss in there. If my water chemistry is right I don't change anything, but if numbers start creeping up I'll change out the charcoal, phosphate remover and filter floss.

Overall, if I keep up with water changes, I think I could probably go four months without opening the canister. I only have a blue angel, and two clowns.
 

cwerner

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One other option is finding a cheap 40 gallon glass breeder tank. These are really cheap and you can often find them for sale really really cheap. Then you can buy one of those baffle kits to make an AIO with it. You can often find sales for $1 per gallon on those standard size fish tanks.

That pump will certainly work, but it's a bit loud. I had that exact same model. I upgrade to a Sicce Syncra Silent model and it is literally soundless unless you stick your ear next to tank then you can hear a faint pump hum:

 
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