Do I need new bulkheads?

vcnt

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Previous owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo
image.jpg
 

MrWellington

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You will if you want to go with schedule 40 PVC. Also - make sure you get good quality ones. Cheaper bulkheads won't screw down near tight enough before skipping threads. This isn't somewhere to get "budget minded". Ask me how I know?!
 

Pntbll687

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Previous owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo
image.jpg
yeah

I can tell that is an aqueon tank. You can use a dremel to knock off the barbs, and a pvc pipe will fit. But it will be WAY easier to get new ones. Get threaded ones, so you can take apart the plumbing in the future if need be.

You'll need a 1" and maybe a 3/4" bulkhead OR two 1". You'll have to measure the holes. Aqueon went from two different size holes to two of the same size, just the one bulkhead tapers down to 3/4 barb.
 
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vcnt

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yeah

I can tell that is an aqueon tank. You can use a dremel to knock off the barbs, and a pvc pipe will fit. But it will be WAY easier to get new ones. Get threaded ones, so you can take apart the plumbing in the future if need be.

You'll need a 1" and maybe a 3/4" bulkhead OR two 1". You'll have to measure the holes. Aqueon went from two different size holes to two of the same size, just the one bulkhead tapers down to 3/4 barb.
Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
 

Pntbll687

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You will if you want to go with schedule 40 PVC. Also - make sure you get good quality ones. Cheaper bulkheads won't screw down near tight enough before skipping threads. This isn't somewhere to get "budget minded". Ask me how I know?!
But he can only use bulkheads that fit the holes, depending on what size the holes are will dictate which ones he can use.

a schedule 80 1" bulkhead uses the 48mm hole saw, where the abs one uses the 45mm hole saw. And a 3/4" schedule 80 MAY fit where a 1" abs was used (not sure if the flange will be wide enough), but again, it will depend on the size of the hole.
 
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But he can only use bulkheads that fit the holes, depending on what size the holes are will dictate which ones he can use.

a schedule 80 1" bulkhead uses the 48mm hole saw, where the abs one uses the 45mm hole saw. And a 3/4" schedule 80 MAY fit where a 1" abs was used (not sure if the flange will be wide enough), but again, it will depend on the size of the hole.
Im probably gonna get the home depot shc 40 than gets 80 valves
 

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I won't even go into the rigging that I did under my tank to make pvc attach there :face-with-tears-of-joy:
 

Pntbll687

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Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
You can run a "herbie" style drain where the 3/4 drain is full siphon, the 1" is used as a standard durso pipe, and the returns up over the back of the tank. This will get you around 1300gph in ideal conditions.
You really only need 3-4x turnover per hour to be effective.

You can get a little more flow by upsizing the pipes around the bulkheads, i.e running 1.25in pipe to the 1" bulkhead and 1" pipe to the 3/4, and reducing the pipe right at the bulkhead. You may get some more flow, but we're only talking maybe 5-10% more, nothing that is gonna make a huge difference.
 

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Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
A one inch drain I think will flow about 900gph. You're not going to need anywhere near that much.
 

Pntbll687

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Im probably gonna get the home depot shc 40 than gets 80 valves
schedule 40 pipe is fine. Spend the money on good gate valves, they are well worth it.

I think the other poster was referring to schedule 80 bulkheads. Which are much more substantial than the abs ones, but as I wrote, they may or may not fit the hole drilled in that tank.
 

Pntbll687

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Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
so the 3 wiers on the tower do provide some flow into the tower, BUT not directly in those areas.

The water goes into the slits, then travels UP to the top of the wier just below the teeth, then dump into the overflow box where the pipes are. If the water just went directly into the box where the slits are, the tank would drain down to the second slit in all likelyhood. Then you would have floods on your hand.
 

Pntbll687

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A one inch drain I think will flow about 900gph. You're not going to need anywhere near that much.
a 1" full siphon drain will flow about that.

The 660 that aqueon references is for the durso stand pipe
 
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You can run a "herbie" style drain where the 3/4 drain is full siphon, the 1" is used as a standard durso pipe, and the returns up over the back of the tank. This will get you around 1300gph in ideal conditions.
You really only need 3-4x turnover per hour to be effective.

You can get a little more flow by upsizing the pipes around the bulkheads, i.e running 1.25in pipe to the 1" bulkhead and 1" pipe to the 3/4, and reducing the pipe right at the bulkhead. You may get some more flow, but we're only talking maybe 5-10% more, nothing that is gonna make a huge difference.

a 1" full siphon drain will flow about that.

The 660 that aqueon references is for the durso standpipe
Should I use full siphon and boot the included durso?
 

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You could save some time and money by purchasing a small amount of vinyl tubing for the drain and return, 2 of the correct barb x threaded fitting, and 2 of the correct threaded to slip pvc fittings. Screw the barb x thread into the thread x slip fitting, cut just enough tubing to connect it to the bulkhead and adapter you just made.
 

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Those are standard 1" and 3/4". The weirs you are talking about the middle and bottom only work when water is flowing through the top weir. Water flow through the top "pulls" water through the other two. My tanks like this have the dual 1" holes so I use one as a full siphon and the other as a emergency drain with my returns over the back. I would not recommend pushing the drains too much. You dont need 10x flow through your sump. The majority of your flow should be wave makers or power heads. most of this has been already said above but being at work really slows down my responses....lol.
 
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F,or noise alone, I would. you will need to run the return over the back wall of the tank. Worth it imo.

Those are standard 1" and 3/4". The weirs you are talking about the middle and bottom only work when water is flowing through the top weir. Water flow through the top "pulls" water through the other two. My tanks like this have the dual 1" holes so I use one as a full siphon and the other as a emergency drain with my returns over the back. I would not recommend pushing the drains too much. You dont need 10x flow through your sump. The majority of your flow should be wave makers or power heads. most of this has been already said above but being at work really slows down my responses....lol.
Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warning
 

twentyleagues

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Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warning
I wouldnt bother. But if you are sure its not tempered you can. My 180 back is tempered as well as bottom and front. Over the back works the same and will save you time and money.
 

twentyleagues

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Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warning
Also I wouldnt bother with the durso I'd leave it as an emergency drain, just open. I get a little worried about the 3/4 siphon drain getting a snail stuck in it could happen on a 1" also but less likely. But thats likely just me being a worry wart.
 

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Previous owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo
image.jpg
I had this plumbing design and it utilizes flexible tubing for return and hose for pump to return. Unless leaking, you should not need new bulkheads. I believe brand is Xaqua
 

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