Does Prime actually "Detoxify" free ammonia, NH3?

MnFish1

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I've followed this and the other thread intently over the past few days. I've read what you've said and I beleive I understand where you are coming from to a point.

The question for you that comes to my mind is;
If a new hobbyist who is trying to do everything right comes to you and says "I'm trying to stock my medicine kit so I'm prepared for any calamity that's likely to occur. My LFS has recommended that I buy Prime and keep it on hand so if I have a problem with ammonia, I can use it to solve my problem. What is your advice?" , how would you respond to him?
OH - I probably didnt re-iterate my response given before. If I thought here was an ammonia catastrophe - I would fix the issue that caused it - and do 2 90 percent water changes. I would not rely on a chemical. I said that earlier - sorry if y ou missed it
 

MnFish1

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I am wondering if we might have reached the end of a productive discussion. What do you think?
PS - the loser (no offense) of a productive discussion as you put it - always says that - I would suggest we await the results from my email with Seachem - which - you seem to suggest is 'impossible' - because they do not respond
 
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taricha

taricha

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My point was that it is not 'normal' to have very high ammonia as well as 'very high pH' (compared to most tanks. Thus the conditions are not conventional.
Might be helpful (in clarifying our disagreement) to say how high an ammonia / pH you would consider within conventional conditions. I suspect your answer may be too narrow to make a hypothetical toxicity study possible. (also I'm not interested in testing on fish - sorry, and even if you talked me into seeing the value in doing it, I wouldn't post the result on here. This is a forum for people who love fish, mollies or not)

Prime is used to prevent ammonia symptoms more during a cycle.
If cycling is where you are saying prime ought to be judged, then my belief is toxic ammonia levels for almost all organisms are rarely reached or maintained for any length of time in cycling.


An interesting experiment would be to take tap water with a known amount of chloramine....
the tap water idea is interesting. I'll play around and see what I find.

"Anything that can color the water like malachite green, anything corrosive, like Chlorine, and PRIME because of the way it binds ammonia". To me this negates the Seneye experiments with Prime - wouldn't that make sense to you?
it's an interesting answer, but oddly the data says it's not true. The seneye films from @Dan_P data, and the seachem disks from mine remained responsive both up and down to changes in actual ammonia concentrations with or without Prime.
They've always responded as is theoretically expected from total ammonia added and pH. What they haven't responded to is Prime (outside of the slight lowering of pH ~0.1 or less in saltwater).
I'll be happy to post more examples with the seachem disks that show they measure and move based on ammonia and stay responsive to pH and do all this identically with/without Prime.

This answer reminds me of how multiple trusted bottle bacteria vendors said (post 213) that ammonia binders such as prime would slow cycling. Again, the data is clear and says no such thing occurs. see post 203. The timing of the beginning, the peak, and the clearance of nitrite, as well as the final nitrate production (post 212) were all identical with or without huge Prime doses.

Perhaps deference to claims by another manufacturer as a business choice / an answer that protects their own interests is a more apt explanation here than rigorous in-house data?


I also asked Seachem to clarify whether their free NH3 tests (recommended on their website) are accurate at high levels of ammonia or confounded by other variables. She said in general the test kits are to be used with ammonia levels found in aquaria, as compared to a scientific experiment. She said that when used under the proper conditions, the Free NH3 level should read lower after prime addition.
did she say that would be the case if you controlled pH? because we do, and the disks do not read lower. If you don't control pH when adding Prime, the disks would "read lower" by an undetectable amount (in saltwater). I bet you could see the pH lowering effect decrease the color in freshwater though.

The way it was explained to me is that PRIME specifically was one of the chemicals in their testing that can affect readings.
We've literally tried to make prime affect readings the whole time, lol. It doesn't.
 
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taricha

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I also asked Seachem to clarify whether their free NH3 tests (recommended on their website) are accurate at high levels of ammonia or confounded by other variables. She said in general the test kits are to be used with ammonia levels found in aquaria, as compared to a scientific experiment.
as compared to the claim that 'Prime does not detoxify ammonia'. After discussing with both companies, I would say logically a problem with the experiments is more likely than a problem with prime (or other ammonia detoxifiers).
Just wanted to point out that the only test done that was outside of aquarium parameters was the amphipods. Pretty much all the rest has been at plausible ammonia - a ppm or two.
I'm now on my 4th bottle of prime. 3 seachem kits, a couple of APIs, two red sea etc etc. Duplicated by more than one person. "a problem with the experiments" seems a bit too convenient a dismissal for the data.
 
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taricha

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I also asked Seachem to clarify whether their free NH3 tests (recommended on their website) are accurate at high levels of ammonia or confounded by other variables. She said in general the test kits are to be used with ammonia levels found in aquaria, as compared to a scientific experiment. She said that when used under the proper conditions, the Free NH3 level should read lower after prime addition.
One more point on this. This answer from seachem contradicts pretty much our last remaining theory of how we could still be wrong.
The case for being wrong (as I see it) is pretty narrow and it goes like this....
Hypothetically,
Prime binds a low amount of ammonia into some other molecule that is less toxic than NH3. (High doses of Prime do not bind high amounts.) This other molecule has the following properties:
1) It is broken down by nitrifying bacteria at exactly the same rate as ammonia.
2) It decomposes under conditions of a salicylate total ammonia test (API, Red Sea) revealing almost the same amount of ammonia as was bound. (The amount less is due to the dechlorinator interference with the test)
3) It fools the gas permeable membrane films (Seachem disks, ammonia alert, seneye) and is able to pass the barrier.
4) It is registered by these films with the exact same color intensity as the un-bound NH3.
5) It exemplifies the exact same pH-responsive mechanism as NH3, causing a higher pH of this other bound molecule to show more intense color and a lower pH a less intense color in these films in the same way as regular NH3 does.

@Randy Holmes-Farley came up with a very plausible reaction (post 245 and 1st post of other thread) and end product molecule, We've used that to test this idea. His reasoning is sound, and fits with all the things we know from seachem and all their statements about the product, and my guess is he wrote down what is actually supposed to happen on paper (seachem might even think it does) - but in saltwater it doesn't seem to take place in any detectable way.

We can say, however that the mechanism he wrote down does not happen, because the end product NH2SO3- which ammonia is proposed to be bound into does not do
numbers 2), 3), 4), and 5) above.

number 2) - this is left to right zero, 0.1, 0.3 and 1.0 mg/L Nitrogen of the sulfamate made with a solution of Loudwolf 99% pure sulfamic acid in tank water. Top is unmodified API, bottom is red sea.
20210927_172704-COLLAGE.jpg


They do not decompose under conditions of the salicylate test giving an ammonia reading.
but here's what zero, 0.3, 1.0mg/L N of actual ammonia looks like with and without 5x dose of Prime (allowed to mix with ammonia overnight)
left 3 - with prime, right 3-no prime. Top: API, bottom Red sea.
20210928_062927-COLLAGE.jpg






And here's how the sulfamate doesn't do 3), 4) These are the ammonia sensing disks from seachem left overnight in the same solutions of 0.1, 0.3, 1.0 mg/L N from sulfamic acid (pH 8.1)
20210927_063953.jpg

All straight zero yellow.

compare that to what happens to actual ammonia (0.3, 1.0 mg/L N) with 5x Prime (top) and without (bottom).
20210927_230446.jpg

(I unintentionally let the Prime treatment pH slip a tenth or so below the no prime samples overnight, likely accounting for the color discrepancy - along with disk variability)

Short version: the pathway to being badly wrong on this requires another molecule that gets made by prime reacting with NH3 and fools multiple test kits/methods. The most likely candidate did no such thing and Seachem's answer to @MnFish1 says the kit shouldn't be fooled anyway - it should just show Prime decreasing the measured NH3 level.

The pathway to being materially wrong here is very narrow and getting narrower.
 

threebuoys

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I would respond - 1. Avoid that situation - in the first place. 2. If you have a perceived ammonia situation - figure out the cause. 3. I would do (as I already stated at least a couple times) - large water changes - and would probably add bottled bacteria. 4. In the meantime - I would add an ammonia detoxifyer (pick your brand) I dont care. None have been proven or disproven,
To continue my query as a new hobbyist looking for advice from a friend:

"Thanks for your advice @MnFish1, I see I've got a lot to learn. A big problem for me is I live 120 miles from my LFS. And I'm worried that if I don't have supplies on hand I won't be able to react quickly enough to problems. I've aready bought Super Ick Cure from my LFS in case I get ich. My LFS really wants me to buy Prime too because he believes it's useful in a crunch. I don't know a lot about Prime. Is it one of those ammonia detoxifiers you referenced in your earlier response to me? If you were me, would you do what my LFS recommended and buy Prime to have on hand?"
 

MnFish1

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One more point on this. This answer from seachem contradicts pretty much our last remaining theory of how we could still be wrong.
The case for being wrong (as I see it) is pretty narrow and it goes like this....
Hypothetically,
Prime binds a low amount of ammonia into some other molecule that is less toxic than NH3. (High doses of Prime do not bind high amounts.) This other molecule has the following properties:
1) It is broken down by nitrifying bacteria at exactly the same rate as ammonia.
2) It decomposes under conditions of a salicylate total ammonia test (API, Red Sea) revealing almost the same amount of ammonia as was bound. (The amount less is due to the dechlorinator interference with the test)
3) It fools the gas permeable membrane films (Seachem disks, ammonia alert, seneye) and is able to pass the barrier.
4) It is registered by these films with the exact same color intensity as the un-bound NH3.
5) It exemplifies the exact same pH-responsive mechanism as NH3, causing a higher pH of this other bound molecule to show more intense color and a lower pH a less intense color in these films in the same way as regular NH3 does.

@Randy Holmes-Farley came up with a very plausible reaction (post 245 and 1st post of other thread) and end product molecule, We've used that to test this idea. His reasoning is sound, and fits with all the things we know from seachem and all their statements about the product, and my guess is he wrote down what is actually supposed to happen on paper (seachem might even think it does) - but in saltwater it doesn't seem to take place in any detectable way.

We can say, however that the mechanism he wrote down does not happen, because the end product NH2SO3- which ammonia is proposed to be bound into does not do
numbers 2), 3), 4), and 5) above.

number 2) - this is left to right zero, 0.1, 0.3 and 1.0 mg/L Nitrogen of the sulfamate made with a solution of Loudwolf 99% pure sulfamic acid in tank water. Top is unmodified API, bottom is red sea.
20210927_172704-COLLAGE.jpg


They do not decompose under conditions of the salicylate test giving an ammonia reading.
but here's what zero, 0.3, 1.0mg/L N of actual ammonia looks like with and without 5x dose of Prime (allowed to mix with ammonia overnight)
left 3 - with prime, right 3-no prime. Top: API, bottom Red sea.
20210928_062927-COLLAGE.jpg






And here's how the sulfamate doesn't do 3), 4) These are the ammonia sensing disks from seachem left overnight in the same solutions of 0.1, 0.3, 1.0 mg/L N from sulfamic acid (pH 8.1)
20210927_063953.jpg

All straight zero yellow.

compare that to what happens to actual ammonia (0.3, 1.0 mg/L N) with 5x Prime (top) and without (bottom).
20210927_230446.jpg

(I unintentionally let the Prime treatment pH slip a tenth or so below the no prime samples overnight, likely accounting for the color discrepancy - along with disk variability)

Short version: the pathway to being badly wrong on this requires another molecule that gets made by prime reacting with NH3 and fools multiple test kits/methods. The most likely candidate did no such thing and Seachem's answer to @MnFish1 says the kit shouldn't be fooled anyway - it should just show Prime decreasing the measured NH3 level.

The pathway to being materially wrong here is very narrow and getting narrower.
Thanks for your response. I'm going to try to be concise:

1. I agree you should try the 'aquarium' experiment - with water containing chloramines.

2. IMHO Like I said before - I think that you cannot make the statement that 'Prime does not detoxify Ammonia' without testing whether water containing Prime and NH3 vs prime alone is less toxic in the range of the values we usually see in aquaria - to the inhabitants of a tank. I understand you don't want to test fish - thats obviously your decision. But, if you recall I did not suggest using regal angels in the test, I suggested using bait fish acclimated to salt water - and even with these - to monitor only for distress, not wait for death to occur.

3. I pointed out that at least according to Seachem, there is more than one active agent in Prime. You didn't respond to that.

4. I am not saying you're 'wrong'. Before commenting more, I will await Seachem's answer to the questions I sent them yesterday afternoon. For whatever reason, and whether you see it or not, Seneye states that measurements are unreliable, not recommended for 24 hours after using Prime. So - if they haven't dont experiments with prime itself - then it seems like they believe with Seachem is saying. I have no explanation as to why your experiments do not see to match Seachem or Seneye's conclusions/presumed research. As I suggested yesterday - maybe you should call them and talk directly to them?
 

MnFish1

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To continue my query as a new hobbyist looking for advice from a friend:

"Thanks for your advice @MnFish1, I see I've got a lot to learn. A big problem for me is I live 120 miles from my LFS. And I'm worried that if I don't have supplies on hand I won't be able to react quickly enough to problems. I've aready bought Super Ick Cure from my LFS in case I get ich. My LFS really wants me to buy Prime too because he believes it's useful in a crunch. I don't know a lot about Prime. Is it one of those ammonia detoxifiers you referenced in your earlier response to me? If you were me, would you do what my LFS recommended and buy Prime to have on hand?"
I would go to the Seachem website, and read up on it - and decide. Seachem states that their product can 'detoxify' ammonia. One thing I would say is 'I'm not sure whether or not it will help you - or work, If I had an ammonia issue, and that was the only thing I had to 'try' - I would try it.
 

threebuoys

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I would go to the Seachem website, and read up on it - and decide. Seachem states that their product can 'detoxify' ammonia. One thing I would say is 'I'm not sure whether or not it will help you - or work, If I had an ammonia issue, and that was the only thing I had to 'try' - I would try it.
So, just to be clear @MnFish1 , your advice to to a friend getting into the hobby, with very little knowledge and probably not aware of R2R, much less the many threads that discuss serious issues such as this , would be:

"... before you buy Prime, go to the Seachem website and read up on it. Seachem states that their product can "detoxify ammonia". I don't know whether it will help you or not or work, but if that's what I've got, that's what I would try?"

And your friend's response might be:

"...thanks a lot my friend, I just wanted to confirm the LFS advice. I'm going to rush right out and buy a gallon of Prime to have on hand. I know I'm much better off now than before I ask for your help. I am sure I can learn from your years of experience in the hobby. "
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I would go to the Seachem website, and read up on it - and decide. Seachem states that their product can 'detoxify' ammonia. One thing I would say is 'I'm not sure whether or not it will help you - or work, If I had an ammonia issue, and that was the only thing I had to 'try' - I would try it.

Or use a product with known ingredients, such as Amquel.
 

MnFish1

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Seachem's answer to @MnFish1 says the kit shouldn't be fooled anyway - it should just show Prime decreasing the measured NH3 level.
Yes - thats basically what they said - on the phone and on their website. So - my conclusion is either their experiments are 'wrong', or your experiments are 'wrong' - or the 2 sets of experiments differ in some way - which lead to different conclusions. This is what I think is happening.

Logically, it makes no sense (to me) that Seachem would say Prime affects test A, and B, but its ok to use our test - if indeed their test also doesn't work. Logically, Seachem would say 'if you use prime all Ammonia tests may be affected'. So - something does not make sense.

In thinking a little more about this whole discussion, to me, the only thing that can be said is that Seachem's claim that their test kits can be used (the one's that measure free ammonia) with Prime may be suspect. I do not think any claim should be based on whether Prime 'detoxifies' ammonia.
 

MnFish1

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So, just to be clear @MnFish1 , your advice to to a friend getting into the hobby, with very little knowledge and probably not aware of R2R, much less the many threads that discuss serious issues such as this , would be:

"... before you buy Prime, go to the Seachem website and read up on it. Seachem states that their product can "detoxify ammonia". I don't know whether it will help you or not or work, but if that's what I've got, that's what I would try?"

And your friend's response might be:

"...thanks a lot my friend, I just wanted to confirm the LFS advice. I'm going to rush right out and buy a gallon of Prime to have on hand. I know I'm much better off now than before I ask for your help. I am sure I can learn from your years of experience in the hobby. "
Yes - lets make it clear - what you're saying above is NOT what I've said in this thread. Your paraphrasing of what I said is not based on the question that was asked nor my response.

First I was asked what I would do in an ammonia emergency, I said - I would try to quickly figure out the cause, remedy it, and do 2 large water changes etc. I would add bottled bacteria and try an ammonia detoxifier. I have said previously, I would not tend to trust a product alone in an 'emergency'.

Then I was basically asked the question - I live xxx miles from an LFS, I don't have things on hand for an emergency (paraphrased) - would you recommend Prime, and did I think it would work to detoxify ammonia? I responded (paraphrased) 'I do not know if Prime will help or not' According to their website it does. I would recommend you use their website to get the specifics of how and when to use the product'. And I said 'if it is your only resort - and you have nothing else you can do, I would try it.

So to answer your question - that is the recommendation I would give to a fellow hobbyist that asked that question the way he did.
 

MnFish1

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Or use a product with known ingredients, such as Amquel.
Point taken.
Yet - if you read various websites, it is also stated that Amquel does not work well either. If you read my other post - I said in an ammonia emergency I would fix the problem, do large water changes, possibly add bottled bacteria and add an ammonia detoxifying agent. The second question implied (to me) that Prime was the only option the LFS had was Prime.
 

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Point taken.
Yet - if you read various websites, it is also stated that Amquel does not work well either.

Not sure which website you are referring to, but scientific publications suggest it does work:

For example:

Effect of Sodium Hydroxymethanesulfonate on Ammonia and related water quality parameters
 

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Yes - lets make it clear - what you're saying above is NOT what I've said in this thread. Your paraphrasing of what I said is not based on the question that was asked nor my response.

First I was asked what I would do in an ammonia emergency, I said - I would try to quickly figure out the cause, remedy it, and do 2 large water changes etc. I would add bottled bacteria and try an ammonia detoxifier. I have said previously, I would not tend to trust a product alone in an 'emergency'.

Then I was basically asked the question - I live xxx miles from an LFS, I don't have things on hand for an emergency (paraphrased) - would you recommend Prime, and did I think it would work to detoxify ammonia? I responded (paraphrased) 'I do not know if Prime will help or not' According to their website it does. I would recommend you use their website to get the specifics of how and when to use the product'. And I said 'if it is your only resort - and you have nothing else you can do, I would try it.

So to answer your question - that is the recommendation I would give to a fellow hobbyist that asked that question the way he did.

@MnFish1 I fully understand that this is not what you have said in this thread, and I think I understand how you personally would handle an ammonia problem should you encounter one.

You have been so intent on proving that @Dan_P and @taricha are not scientists and have not followed the scientific method that in my opinion you have missed the crux of the matter.

Your hypothetical new hobbyist friend, who has very limited knowledge is looking for help. And your response to him is basically, " I don't know if it'll work but , yeah you could try a ammonia detoxifier if that's all you have, but you should study up on it and make the decision for yourself. I'm not going to offer an opinion."

Your responses seem to suggest those questions are inappropriate for R2R members to ask. I'm all for members becoming better educated (that's why I've followed this thread), but suggesting they just follow the instructions offered by product manufacturers and they will be ok is not a good response.

My guess is you have never been burned by using a product from a major aquarium supplier by following the product's instructions even though the supplier has not disclosed whats in the product. And the seller of the product has customer reviews that for a big majority speak favorably of the product. And then, after you have a disaster, your unfavorable comments are not published by either the supplier or the seller. Of course, the seller was glad to send you a dozen yellow roses to comfort you in your loss. I'm afraid I have been burnt, and had major losses as a result. I take everything a supplier say about his product in an unregulated market with a grain of salt. I appreciate third party citizen scientists as well as third party professional scientists (who have no ax to grind) that offer buyer beware comments on R2R.
 

MnFish1

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@AquariumScience mentions Sodium Hydroxymethanesulfonate on his website - as well as the paper you quote above - and states the methods were not done properly. Whether this is correct or not - I don't know.

 

MnFish1

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Your hypothetical new hobbyist friend, who has very limited knowledge is looking for help. And your response to him is basically, " I don't know if it'll work but , yeah you could try a ammonia detoxifier if that's all you have, but you should study up on it and make the decision for yourself. I'm not going to offer an opinion."
In case you're not aware, every day - I go to the 'unanswered threads' and answer questions perhaps 5-10/day or more. I do not say 'google it' or study up and make a decision. I give my opinion. I try to give a lot of help to a lot of people on this forum. So - I think your comment is a fair bit off base.
You have been so intent on proving that @Dan_P and @taricha are not scientists and have not followed the scientific method that in my opinion you have missed the crux of the matter.
I have never been intent on proving that Dan and Taricha are not scientists. I've never said that. I don't even believe that I implied that they were not scientists - and in fact - I have no idea what their backgrounds are. I will say point blank - they know more chemistry than I do... But - even scientific papers - that are peer reviewed are discussed with regards to results, methods, etc. This is a discussion board. I was discussing their results - while (at least several times) complimenting their efforts, and have said they may be totally correct.
@MnFish1 I fully understand that this is not what you have said in this thread, and I think I understand how you personally would handle an ammonia problem should you encounter one.
The way you asked the question - as a hypothetical had 2 parts you asked about Prime. I recommended the person go to the Seachem website and learn about it. Then I said I wasn't sure if prime would help - but (since in your question you implied) that that was the only thing he/she had access to - I said I would try it. Your question the way it was framed - had 2 possible answers. 1. Use Prime or another conditioner or 2. Let your fish die (since the hypothetical person had access to no other solutions).

Yet you continue to critique the answer I gave to your hypothetical (which at the time - I did not realize was a hypothetical - but instead someone who had read a fair bit of this thread). You even admit above that you knew how I would handle an ammonia problem - and in part 1 of your question - thats what I recommended that your friend do. I'm beginning to wonder why it is that you keep implying I've said things that I have not?
 
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taricha

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@AquariumScience mentions Sodium Hydroxymethanesulfonate on his website

That paper also used salicylate ammonia tests.
Yeah, let's leave amquel, ClorAm-x for a different discussion for another day.

I think it needs discussion, it just doesn't clarify the current one.
 

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