Duel 300 watt heaters
- Thread starter Wick
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Wick
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Nice! How do you have it wired if I may ask? I was thinking about adding an outlet to my thermostat so now I have the two plugged into the same thermostat. And mine would be in the sump. That would be ok?I hope so, I have 2 in my 144 with a 30 gal sump.
Sump is fine, that's where mine would be it they would fit. I have mine set up using inkbirds
Ya, curious to see
I really don't know how the contoller would react if one of the two heaters fail. I personally wouldn't chance it and would invest into a second controller. Let's see what others might say or if anyone else uses this method. I am not a controller expert or an electrician but I am curious. 
#reefsquad
#reefsquad
OP
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Wick
Well-Known Member
Haha I hear ya! I might just suck it up and but the 800 watt at some point.I really don't know how the contoller would react if one of the two heaters fail. I personally wouldn't chance it and would invest into a second controller. Let's see what others might say or if anyone else uses this method. I am not a controller expert or an electrician but I am curious.
#reefsquad
Ron Reefman
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That controller has a temperature probe attached and if the tank gets to hot it will turn off anything plugged into it. I have the same unit.
Aardvark1134
Well-Known Member
The size of the heaters you need depend on several things:
1) Brand of heater a 300w jager can heat a much bigger tank than than a cobalt 300w almost double the size
2) Glass tank vs acrylic
3) Top on the tank or not
4) Internal return pumps or external
5) UV or not
UV and internal return pumps act like little heaters that are always on and heating the water some. Acylic tanks loose 50% less heat. A tank with a top has far less evaporation and less cooling from that evaporation. Some sumps have lids on on the sock and return area and some are open there also. This all has a major effect on how much heater power you need.
And yes inkbird is a good thing
1) Brand of heater a 300w jager can heat a much bigger tank than than a cobalt 300w almost double the size
2) Glass tank vs acrylic
3) Top on the tank or not
4) Internal return pumps or external
5) UV or not
UV and internal return pumps act like little heaters that are always on and heating the water some. Acylic tanks loose 50% less heat. A tank with a top has far less evaporation and less cooling from that evaporation. Some sumps have lids on on the sock and return area and some are open there also. This all has a major effect on how much heater power you need.
And yes inkbird is a good thing
Ron Reefman
Lets Go Snorkeling!
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Tampa Bay Reef Keepers
MAC of SW Florida
With 2 smaller units, if one fails, the other can pick up the slack. The trick is, do they both turn on when the controller says the temp is down and the water needs heat. I guess if you set the controller to turn on at 78 degrees and have the heaters set to 80 degrees, they should both turn on. Right? You just need to check every so often to see that both of them are still working rather than having one failed and the other working double time. Like people who drive with one headlight and don't even realize that one is burned out. BTW, this was way more common in the days before fancy halogen or led headlights. Forgive the musings of an old timer!
Forgive the musings of an old timer!
OP
OP
Wick
Well-Known Member
Haha! Nice way to put it. But that leads to another question. How can we test each heater as there is no on off light? Unplug one and let the temp get cold to see if it begins to heat up?
Ron Reefman
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Tampa Bay Reef Keepers
MAC of SW Florida
No on/off light? Really? Well, when they are on, you should be able to feel the heat from each unit without touching them.
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