Electric Shock

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There was a time here in the states, (and im sure on your side of the world as well) where houses were wired as "2 wire", meaning a hot and a neutral, or in your case two hots, and no ground. Some folks eventually replaced the outlets with three wire outlets, but there was no ground to hook up. It was just so the newer appliances and modern conveniences that came with three wire cords could be hooked up. There are still rural areas here within the states and some of the older towns that still have houses this way. And from what you described earlier your house didn't have a ground going to the panel. A proper ground rod here is at least 8' long and a #6 copper conductor run from the grounding bar to the ground rod. And these days also includes a ground running to a piece of rebar in the slab, along with a bond to the water main. Electricity is always trying to get back to the source (where it is generated). And a proper grounding system not only helps, but makes it just a bit safer.
 

WallyB

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3. Can I buy a GFCI extensiom cord or plug that plugs into wall? Where I live overseas house outlets aren’t necessarily guaranteed to be grounded?
Here is the Answer to your Question.
I know it works since I tested, but this is from an Site explains more.

https://scotthomeinspection.com/un-grounded-outlets-gfci-solution/

What it says, is that even if your House Wiring and Receptacles (may not have Ground Wires)....Replacing the Receptable with an GFCI outlet will still protect you and your tank.

And if you get a Ground Probe, so long as it's connected to the Same GFCI outlet, or a power bar plugged into that GFCI outlet.

Your other thought was an GFCI extension Cord.
Like one of theses....


That will work as well (instead or replacing the Wall Receptable). If the Receptacle in the Wall is 3 Prong.

-> EVERYTHING IN YOUR TANK must be plugged into the GFCI outlet/extension (including ground probe if you go for extra Safety)
-> and everything must add up to less current than the Receptacle is Rated For or else circuit breaker will trip (that's not Ground Fault Protection, that is CURRENT LIMIT protection)

** SINCE your electrical skills are not as qualified as an Electrician. You should get an Electrician, or Get at least a Qualified Electrician's advice, after inspecting your Electrical Setup near your Tank **

I would never let an Electrician see my Tank Setup. It probably breaks so many OFFICIAL Electrical codes, he would shake his head in amuzement. ( My Place is SAFE for me (I test and make sure). I have GFCI's all over the place. Mulitple Ground Probes too)
 
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Reef GE

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Here is the Answer to your Question.
I know it works since I tested, but this is from an Site explains more.

https://scotthomeinspection.com/un-grounded-outlets-gfci-solution/

What it says, is that even if your House Wiring and Receptacles (may not have Ground Wires)....Replacing the Receptable with an GFCI outlet will still protect you and your tank.

And if you get a Ground Probe, so long as it's connected to the Same GFCI outlet, or a power bar plugged into that GFCI outlet.

Your other thought was an GFCI extension Cord.
Like one of theses....


That will work as well (instead or replacing the Wall Receptable). If the Receptacle in the Wall is 3 Prong.

-> EVERYTHING IN YOUR TANK must be plugged into the GFCI outlet/extension (including ground probe if you go for extra Safety)
-> and everything must add up to less current than the Receptacle is Rated For or else circuit breaker will trip (that's not Ground Fault Protection, that is CURRENT LIMIT protection)

** SINCE your electrical skills are not as qualified as an Electrician. You should get an Electrician, or Get at least a Qualified Electrician's advice, after inspecting your Electrical Setup near your Tank **

I would never let an Electrician see my Tank Setup. It probably breaks so many OFFICIAL Electrical codes, he would shake his head in amuzement. ( My Place is SAFE for me (I test and make sure). I have GFCI's all over the place. Mulitple Ground Probes too)

No such thing as a 220 GFCI receptacle here. I can try to find a breaker though and run all thru that.
 

WallyB

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No such thing as a 220 GFCI receptacle here. I can try to find a breaker though and run all thru that.
You mean A GFCI breaker for The Electrical Panel? Right...
They have those too. Then Everything is protected, and you should be able to get a GROUND at the ELECTRICAL PANEL.

A regular breaker is not the same. No Protection except Current Overload.

You are 220V Europe, so NO idea's how things are different over there.
Talk to Experts, or people who know. Like stores.
 
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Reef GE

Reef GE

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This thread will be ending soon!

I had an electrician come out and check the 220 lines. Turns out the line to aquarium wasn’t grounded properly. Something happened in installation and ground wire broke free in breaker box. We fixed that (easy), installed a GFCI breaker to basement line (easy) and also ordered a grounding probe from Amazon to add to tank. I don’t think the grounding probe matters if plugged into 110 or 220. Thanks for all who helped with advice!
 

Here we go again..

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This thread will be ending soon!

I had an electrician come out and check the 220 lines. Turns out the line to aquarium wasn’t grounded properly. Something happened in installation and ground wire broke free in breaker box. We fixed that (easy), installed a GFCI breaker to basement line (easy) and also ordered a grounding probe from Amazon to add to tank. I don’t think the grounding probe matters if plugged into 110 or 220. Thanks for all who helped with advice!
Glad everything turned out good!!!
 

Picklepentagramsforjesus

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an air pump and stone ,will airate enough for the moment ,what size "gallons" and corals.and fish do you have'pic would be great
Was going to suggest this I always have a spare one kicking around really useful if your pump goes out I would use anything even if it’s small just to break the water tension to prevent to much stagnation other then that not much help
 

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