EMERGENCY....I need some advice or assistance like ASAP Please help

ca2or

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So for the past 3 weeks I have been fighting a battle in my tank and I don't seem to be getting anywhere. It all pretty much happened when I got the canopy for the tank and right around there. I will try to provide as much information as possible here in hopes of getting some direction. So I apologize in advance if I ramble or emphasize on irrelevant facts.


According to last water test 1 week ago at Upscales which is an LFS.
Salinity 1.022
Temp 78
Nitrites 0
Amonia was very low...not 0...but not of concern either
Phosphates 0
PH 8.0
Calcium 500
Alk "it's good" quote from Upscales (LFS) guy.
Nitrates were very high, but I believe I know why and have removed that from the system.

Nitrate issue,
I have used canister filters on my tank since my 36 and hadn't had nitrate issues, I always credited that to removal of the foam pad they have in them to prevent debri collection, when I put the 72 up I used my 304 but forgot to remove the pad. Since I noticed the Nitrate spike I have removed the canister from the system so it is no longer in the equation.

Salinity issue,
My refracto seems to be off kilter, which is why I took my water to Upscales (a local fish store) in the first place. I had taken my water to World of Wet Pets another LFS and they said that I had no nitrates and my salt was 1.020 so I added salt and my refracto was reading 1.025. So I took water to a buddies one night and he tested it at 1.020 also. I went home and set my refracto to read my water at 1.020 then did a water change with some potently mixed 5 gallons. A day later I tested my water and it read 1.025 I asked a different buddy to come over with his refracto and it also read 1.025 so I assumed my water was good salt wise. However today I tested it again and it is reading 1.018.DOH! Will be taking water to Upscales again tomorrow.

Anyway since last Monday I have done a 20g, 15g, 10g, water changes to my tank to reduce the nitrates and pick up my salinity to acceptable messures.

All of this was instigated by the loss of 90% of my SPS 3 weeks ago. All acro's minus the tricolor, my milli, both birdsnest frags, my sunset monti, and the ORA Blue Chalice. My initial concern was from the loss of the ORA blue. Then I noticed my Duncan's haven't been opening nor was my hammer, I also had lost my torch in all of this. Zoa's seem to be fine
Around this time I had made several changes to my system. I was running an SPS 15k DE HQI MH, which I had run for 10 to 12 hours a day for about a year, Calvin brought over a used Pheonix 14k which was ran for 6 hours a day for 2 years. I was\am considering the Pheonix for my bulb replacement coming up in about a week. I also removed my 3/4 inch flow accelerator and Korellia 4 and replaced it with 2 Korellia 3's and I split my return. Also added the canopy and initially found my salinity to be low.

I initially thought that the hammer and duncan's were upset due to the increase in flow so I have moved them around a bit. My hammer, after the most recent move, has been very happy, but my duncan's are still showing stress.

Then I thought it was my salinity and nitrates, so I have removed the canister, about a week ago, added Purigen and Carbon, and also done the 20g, 15g, and 10g water changes....and I am not seeing any result. Duncan's are still very upset. They aren't dying, I am not loosing heads, but they dang sure aren't opening. I am assuming that my nitrates are still a tad high but should be coming down. According to my last refracto encounter my water is at 1.018. I will be taking water down tomorrow to get tested and am expecting to pick up 20 to 30 gallons of water for another tank change to help resolve this issue. But I am not convinced that this is what is actually what is going on. I have also lost one fish during all of this.

What I am doing so far about this:
I am changing back to the SPS bulb tomorrow. I have also ordered Refugium mud, started with Purigen, increasing my LRR, removed canister filter, multiple water changes with no end it sight.

So here are the questions,
As noted I have lost a ton of SPS and a few LPS. But here is what confuses me....I have an acan that is doing great, I also have 2 other monti's that are also doing great. My hammer is doing great, xenia is dead, duncan's are ticked, zoa's are thiving. My toad stool and devils hand are doing fine....what do you think can be going on?

What else should I do?

Could changing from a SPS 15k ran for 12 hours for 1 year to a Pheonix 14k ran for 6 hours for 2 years do this?

Fatality list to date:
1-3inch Milli, was bought as brown out
1-small sunset monti from Frank
1-ORA Blue Chalice was 3 inches grew to 4 in a month from Davy Jones Locker
1-Huma Huma trigger
1-Blue polyp Birdsnest
1-Green polyp Birdsnest
1-Pink birdsnest

What is showing stress:
Duncan's....both frags...again Duncan's do NOT appear to be dying, I have no recession of flesh, nor head loss.

What is fine or thiving:
Zoa's, zoa's, zoa's
also devils hand
tood stool
fuzzy mushrooms
sponge
pagoda
1 purple tang
3 clownfish
1 pink tail trigger
1 blue throat trigger
1 lawnmower blenny
4 neon gobies
1 melanarus wrasse
all snails, crabs, starfish, and the cucumber are fine

No sign of stress on cucumber, sand sifting starfish, serpant starfish, snails, hermits, or emeralds. All other fish are fine as well.
 
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Hypertek99

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How long has your tank been setup? From reading your post it sounds like this is a fairly new system? The bulb might have an impact as the phoenix are more intense i believe. Cuz when i switched over to phoenix some of my LPS bleached.
 
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ca2or

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well I moved into this tank about 4 to 6 months ago. Before then was a 36g that was up for about a year.
 
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ca2or

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This is pretty much how my duncan's have looked the past 2 or 3 weeks These pic's were after MH was off....they do open a bit more than that right now. I will update the pic's tomorrow mid day when MH has been on.
1201091013a.jpg

1201091013.jpg

Compared to
1121091408a.jpg
 

Ike

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So here are the questions,
As noted I have lost a ton of SPS and a few LPS. But here is what confuses me....I have an acan that is doing great, I also have 2 other monti's that are also doing great. My hammer is doing great, xenia is dead, duncan's are ticked, zoa's are thiving. My toad stool and devils hand are doing fine....what do you think can be going on?

What else should I do?

Could changing from a SPS 15k ran for 12 hours for 1 year to a Pheonix 14k ran for 6 hours for 2 years do this?

1.) You should get your own RO/DI unit, your own test kits, and calibration solution for your refractometer.

2.) It simply sounds like you're losing some more sensitive corals (more or less) while most that are thriving will be more tolerant of higher nutrients.

3.) I didn't see any mention of a protein skimmer, are you using one?

4.) Are you saying you've been running the same bulb for 2 years? That's probably not helping matters...

5.) "Very high" nitrates combined with some other minor issues could very well be the root of the problem. But it sounds like you have some other issues to deal with besides that.
 
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ca2or

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1.) You should get your own RO/DI unit, your own test kits, and calibration solution for your refractometer.
Will be working on that tomorrow

2.) It simply sounds like you're losing some more sensitive corals (more or less) while most that are thriving will be more tolerant of higher nutrients.
I would agree, but my Duncan's have never been this stressed out....not even when my amonia hit the roof in the beginning were they like this or took so long to bounce back

3.) I didn't see any mention of a protein skimmer, are you using one?
I am, but typically my skimmer over skims for the first 2 days after a water change...and I mean OVER SKIM like bad. So I leave it off during that time, but I have been doing water changes every 2 days so I haven't had it on in about a week

4.) Are you saying you've been running the same bulb for 2 years? That's probably not helping matters...
No, I was using an SPS 15k for a year and I ran it for about 10 to 12 hours a day, this pheonix was 2 years old but ran for 6 hours a day, I only put it up to get an idea of the color difference. Just haven't changed it because I was focusing on the other issues
 
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ca2or

ca2or

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I have also added carbon and purigen to my system in the last week or so to assist in this battle.
 

Ike

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Will be working on that tomorrow


I would agree, but my Duncan's have never been this stressed out....not even when my amonia hit the roof in the beginning were they like this or took so long to bounce back


I am, but typically my skimmer over skims for the first 2 days after a water change...and I mean OVER SKIM like bad. So I leave it off during that time, but I have been doing water changes every 2 days so I haven't had it on in about a week


No, I was using an SPS 15k for a year and I ran it for about 10 to 12 hours a day, this pheonix was 2 years old but ran for 6 hours a day, I only put it up to get an idea of the color difference. Just haven't changed it because I was focusing on the other issues

Duncans can be weird and will close up for no clear reason for a week or so and then open up like normal again. Also, you've had corals dying, some stress from any coral shouldn't be a surprise...

What type of skimmer?

Really you need to get your numbers nailed down and then we'll go from there... You don't even really know what your salinity is and that's a big issues. #1 on your shopping list should be some pinpoint calibration solution. #2 should be an alkalinity/carbonate hardness test kit, API is cheap, accurate, and easy to use. RO/DI and other test kits should be next... Nitrate, calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, ammonia are all you really need. You could even skip magnesium and let the LFS test that one.

Keep in mind that if the high nitrates are your biggest problem that the 3 small water changes you've done aren't going to do much, especially not if you've had corals dying in your tank and making them rise more than usual.
 
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ca2or

ca2or

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I have a Top Fathom A110 Skimmer....

Should I do like a 40 gallon change?
 

Ike

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I think you should figure out exactly what your levels are and then we'll go from there...

A skimmer upgrade to something more consistent/better would be a good idea as well if you can afford it. Depending on what pump you're using it may even save you money in the long run.
 
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ca2or

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I will update with new parameters tomorrow and will keep skimmer upgrade in mind.
 

eggie

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You sure having alk spike and that could be the reason your duncans could be close also So yeah i think you really need to hook up your self with some good test kits like Elos calibrate your refractometer or buy a new one and have more stable parameters

Now think of all your looses for not having this small stuff at first
 
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ca2or

ca2or

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Well I don't really consider the SPS as a loss....but I would my Duncan's for sure. I don't care for SPS....all of it that I have had was part of trades that I never gave away. Yes, I do give it all away if I can.

Guess I am picking up test kits....maybe next check I can do something about whatever the tests show as bad.
 

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Pick the most major issue and correct that. Correcting for everything, at once, can just cause other problems. Looking at your casualties, I would say that your alk is off. Your Ca is 500, I would say that your alk is prolly around 7-8. This is acceptable in the wild but there things are much more stable. You can use DISTILLED water to calibrate your refractometer, if you don't have calibration solution. Just calibrate at 0. I calibrate before every use.
 

fsu1dolfan

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Everyone has great advice so far....i just want to echo the point of getting you own test kits....it is so important to be able to test you own parameters. LFS no matter how great they are do not care about your tank the way you do!!
 
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ca2or

ca2or

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how or where do I get distilled water?

I would totally agree that LFS's don't care about your tank...probably prefer you have issues so you spend more money with them.
 

ficklefins

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how or where do I get distilled water?

I would totally agree that LFS's don't care about your tank...probably prefer you have issues so you spend more money with them.

Distilled water is available at your local grocery store and at places like walmart where you will find it for cheaper.
 
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ca2or

ca2or

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oh....what about water from the water machines? Could I use that or should I avoid it?
 

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