Eshopps Eclipse L drilling template

[Maximitsurugi]

Could someone do me a favour. Does anyone have the drilling template for the Eshopps Eclipse L overflow? I'm getting a used overflow but it doesn't come with the template and I don't want to make any mistakes.

I could work with measurements or even a life sized image of one so I could make my own template here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Maximitsurugi]

No replies. Also made a work around. Thanks.

 

[mfinn]

Just saw this.
I can get you a picture and measurements in about a hour.

 

[mfinn]

I loaned it to a friend a few months ago and just heard back from him.
He can't find it.
Sorry.

 

[Maximitsurugi]

Thanks @mfinn. I decided that when it comes I'm gonna get a piece of acrylic, drill two holes, fit it over the internal box then cut away the extra to leave just the box shape. I should be able to use that as the template.

 

[mfinn]

Hope this isn't too late to help.
My buddy felt bad and dropped this off this morning on his way to work.
The pattern was placed on the piece of paper and traced out.
There is one thing I did NOT like about this pattern and I saw alot of other complaints about the issue.
When you follow the directions and drill it and install the overflow box, the water level in the tank with the return pump on is always below the level of the plastic trim on store bought tanks.
So now that I know that, if I were to use the eshopps overflow kit again on a plastic trimmed tank, I would cut a 1/4" to 3/8" off the top of the pattern and raise the center of the holes up.
Hope that makes sense.
If you do a search here on R2R there have been a few people who have talked about the issue.
GL.

 

[Maximitsurugi]

Hope this isn't too late to help.
My buddy felt bad and dropped this off this morning on his way to work.
The pattern was placed on the piece of paper and traced out.
There is one thing I did NOT like about this pattern and I saw alot of other complaints about the issue.
When you follow the directions and drill it and install the overflow box, the water level in the tank with the return pump on is always below the level of the plastic trim on store bought tanks.
So now that I know that, if I were to use the eshopps overflow kit again on a plastic trimmed tank, I would cut a 1/4" to 3/8" off the top of the pattern and raise the center of the holes up.
Hope that makes sense.
If you do a search here on R2R there have been a few people who have talked about the issue.
GL.

You are a true boss @mfinn. Truly. I so appreciate all your effort and help. Saves me a ton of time and money. Just like GEICO. Lol.

I'm eurobraced. Do you suggest to take a little off the top of the overflow box in order to increase water height. I'm also tossing the idea of removing the teeth to make it a smooth weir and to use gutter guard to keep stuff out. Better surface area for surface skimming. What do you think?

Also what are your thoughts on the leaky gaskets? Did you experience this?

 

[mfinn]

You are a true boss @mfinn. Truly. I so appreciate all your effort and help. Saves me a ton of time and money. Just like GEICO. Lol.

I'm eurobraced. Do you suggest to take a little off the top of the overflow box in order to increase water height. I'm also tossing the idea of removing the teeth to make it a smooth weir and to use gutter guard to keep stuff out. Better surface area for surface skimming. What do you think?

Also what are your thoughts on the leaky gaskets? Did you experience this?

Glad to help.

I'm not sure where you would put the pattern on a eurobraced tank. I just know that on the plastic trimmed tank, it is low.
I actually had to glue a 1/8" strip of acrylic on the inside of the box to block the bottom of the overflows teeth to raise the water level in the tank.
I know they say you are supposed to get better surface skimming with no teeth, but in my mind I see a faster flow between the teeth, such as a narrowing of a river. There is always faster flow at that point.

I didn't experience a leaky gasket.
I always do something I see others tell people not to do.
On the bulkhead part that goes through the glass I put a small bead ( 1/4"-3/8") of silicone around the male part of the fitting. Just enough to fill the gap between the plastic and the glass edges of the hole.
I tighten it down, and then leave it alone for 24 hours. No water, no adjusting.
It's something I do on all bulkheads.

 

[Maximitsurugi]

Glad to help.

I'm not sure where you would put the pattern on a eurobraced tank. I just know that on the plastic trimmed tank, it is low.
I actually had to glue a 1/8" strip of acrylic on the inside of the box to block the bottom of the overflows teeth to raise the water level in the tank.
I know they say you are supposed to get better surface skimming with no teeth, but in my mind I see a faster flow between the teeth, such as a narrowing of a river. There is always faster flow at that point.

I didn't experience a leaky gasket.
I always do something I see others tell people not to do.
On the bulkhead part that goes through the glass I put a small bead ( 1/4"-3/8") of silicone around the male part of the fitting. Just enough to fill the gap between the plastic and the glass edges of the hole.
I tighten it down, and then leave it alone for 24 hours. No water, no adjusting.
It's something I do on all bulkheads.

I'll try to incorporate that if I understood it correctly. I read that because the water sheets over the smooth weir, which has a wider surface area than toothed weirs, surface scum and debris get down the overflow faster. If I end up doing it that way, I'll definitely update you. Thanks a lot for everything.