Rick,
Below is what we know on this issue, Aqua is one of the brands that overdrives the bulb, the ground probe is likely the solution.
3) A flourescent light inducing current into the water or creating an electromagnetic frequency that disrupts the controller, the most common still in use on aquariums is a UV sterilizer. 2 separate issues can be at play here and there are two solutions, but the test is simple, turn off the UV and see if the issue is solved, if so, this is our culprit. Here is what we know on this so far:
We basically see 3 types of UV, premium products where this issue is minimal and usually only some distance between the UV and all associated wiring and using separate surge suppressor strips for the UV and Osmolator is sufficient to solve the problem, this is generally the case with Pentair. The ballasts are a reasonably high quality and have sufficient EMF shielding that a few feet distance, not sharing an outlet and keeping the wires of each isolated solves the problem.
UV’s that claim to overdrive the lamp, the idea here is it is a hybrid UV/Ozone generator, for this to work as advertised obviously a high amount of ionizing energy has to reach the water, this high frequency current is essentially stray voltage but more like a van de graaf generator than a live wire in the tank so you don't feel it. In this case a titanium ground probe in the tank solves the issue.
Low end UV’s where the ballast creates considerable EMF radiation, this can usually be detected on a TV or Radio in the vicinity as interference, this same interference directly affects the processor and causes it to repeatedly cycle on and off in response to the frequency. This is only solvable by considerable distance and in the worst case may require completely separate household circuits to isolate the interference. The cause here is that to cut costs all EMF shielding and most safeties were omitted from the ballast..