Euphyillia Skeleton getting Holes?!

[NicksTanks223]

I just noticed that my euphyillia skeleton has a hole in it (very bottom of skeleton, and left side in 2nd picture). I am wondering what this could be from and I’m concerned because of how good it’s been doing. I never noticed this before so I do it could’ve been there before but it’s very unlikely that I wouldve overlooked something like that considering how much I look at my corals. The things sticking on the side of it is some old glue, killing tube worms. This is a very healthy striving piece that I’ve had for about 5 months now. It is actually splitting right now and growing 5 new heads out the sides, 3 heads now, 1 head when I got it. I’m don’t have any fancy tests kits for alk, calcium, phosphate, etc, but I know that my magnesium is around 1400-1500. Could something be eating it? If you have any suggestions on what it could be please do share. I also dip all my corals when I introduce they to the tank and I used dry rock when cycling so I don’t think it could’ve been anything in there. Thanks.

 

[Jekyl]

@vetteguy53081

 

[vetteguy53081]

Top shows hammer hatchlings and bottom shows a possible calcium deficiency.
Check your calcium levels which should be in range of 440-460, alk 8-10 and mag 1280-1330
Hopefully these are not API TEST KITS
It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

 

[Timfish]

Every coral has endoliths, organisms that live in the skeleton. Some of these endoliths will dissolve the skeleton, especially once the tissue has receded. This is normal and is how coral skeletons can get recycled, it is more pronounced with skeletons that are full of vacuoles or spaces like with euphylia spp. corals. If you're interested here's some links:

Endolithic Algae Affect Modern Coral Carbonate Morphology and Chemistry

While burial diagenetic processes of tropical corals are well investigated, current knowledge about factors initiating early diagenesis remains fragmentary. In the present study, we focus on recent Porites microatolls, growing in the intertidal zone. This growth form represents a model organism...

www.frontiersin.org

Down to the bone: the role of overlooked endolithic microbiomes in reef coral health - The ISME Journal

Reef-building corals harbour an astonishing diversity of microorganisms, including endosymbiotic microalgae, bacteria, archaea, and fungi. The metabolic interactions within this symbiotic consortium are fundamental to the ecological success of corals and the unique productivity of coral reef...

www.nature.com

https://aslopubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.4319/lo.2014.59.3.0917

(PDF) Bioerosion by euendoliths decreases in phosphate-enriched skeletons of living corals

PDF | While the role of microboring organisms, or euendoliths, is relatively well known in dead coral skeletons, their function in live corals remains... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate

www.researchgate.net

 

[NicksTanks223]

Top shows hammer hatchlings and bottom shows a possible calcium deficiency.
Check your calcium levels which should be in range of 440-460, alk 8-10 and mag 1280-1330
Hopefully these are not API TEST KITS
It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

Thank you. Just for reference this is not a hammer, I’m not sure the exact type of euphyillia but I know it is also not a torch. I will get a test kit and check my calcium levels. This coral has been thriving since the day I got it, it gets just the right amount of light imo and just the right amount of flow imo. I also was feeding brine shrimp and a coral food(size of little crumbs or seasoning) once or twice a week. I also heard I could gently squeeze the skeleton to see if it is soft, hinting calcium and or alk deficiency.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you. Just for reference this is not a hammer, I’m not sure the exact type of euphyillia but I know it is also not a torch. I will get a test kit and check my calcium levels. This coral has been thriving since the day I got it, it gets just the right amount of light imo and just the right amount of flow imo. I also was feeding brine shrimp and a coral food(size of little crumbs or seasoning) once or twice a week. I also heard I could gently squeeze the skeleton to see if it is soft, hinting calcium and or alk deficiency.

Its frogspawn. Same care as hammer