Every Z and P I have are completely closed

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NanoNano

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This started a few weeks ago, I noticed my Palys and Zoas colors fading and then they started slowly closing. Now they are all completely closed and won't open. All over my tank no matter where they are located.

I just tested my water

Tank is almost a year old

Temp - 78.6
Salinity - 1.026
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - < .1
PH - 8.0
Alk - 3.0 meq/L

These are all pretty normal for my tank.

  • Lights are 4 bulbs T5, just got new bulbs in the past 2 months.
  • Using Salinity salt, been using it for months
  • My protein skimmer stopped running recently, I'm going to mess with it today.
  • I have an Aquafuge HOB refugium with Mangroves and until recently chaeto. I gave away alot of the chaeto and what I had left died.
  • Every other coral in the tank seems fine (Candy Canes, Finger Leather, Acans, Pink Montipora, Chalices, Plate, War Coral, GSP Florida Rics).
  • I have a BRS Reactor with Purigen and Chemi Pure Elite that I haven't changed in a long time (Could this be it?)

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Nano, did you light acclimate when you replaced your bulbs? If not, it is possible that the polyps are finally showing the results of light shock.
 
Nano, did you light acclimate when you replaced your bulbs? If not, it is possible that the polyps are finally showing the results of light shock.

I didn't but I seriously doubt that's it. I've never had a problem with that before and got the same exact bulbs as last time.

dose vitamin c

How?
 
I didn't but I seriously doubt that's it. I've never had a problem with that before and got the same exact bulbs as last time.

How many times have you replaced bulbs in the past? And how many Z's and P's did you have in your tank the last time you replaced bulbs and where are they located now vs. where they were located then?


Not without a lot of research on the subject. Too many people think this is the end all answer to keeping Z's -n- P's. Do your research and you will find just as many issues/horror stories related to this as you will success stories. And many of those who claim to be doing it with great success seem to just fad away. Not saying it can't be done successfully long term, just saying it takes a lot of time, information, and effort to make it work right. Too many think they can just go some vit. C off the shelf and start dumping it into their sump and its going to solve all their problems. Just my $02 worth - I'm off my soapbox now.
 
What are you testing your salt with?
 
Not without a lot of research on the subject. Too many people think this is the end all answer to keeping Z's -n- P's. Do your research and you will find just as many issues/horror stories related to this as you will success stories. And many of those who claim to be doing it with great success seem to just fad away. Not saying it can't be done successfully long term, just saying it takes a lot of time, information, and effort to make it work right. Too many think they can just go some vit. C off the shelf and start dumping it into their sump and its going to solve all their problems. Just my $02 worth - I'm off my soapbox now.

Agreed you definitely need to do you research....but my Vit C gets soaked with my mysis and brine before i feed. Its not dumped into the tank to avoid or prevent issues. I have been using it for years and (knock on wood) havent had any major outbreaks of anything.
 
Agreed you definitely need to do you research....but my Vit C gets soaked with my mysis and brine before i feed. Its not dumped into the tank to avoid or prevent issues. I have been using it for years and (knock on wood) havent had any major outbreaks of anything.
I just throw a bag of oranges in my sump:tongue:
 
How many times have you replaced bulbs in the past? And how many Z's and P's did you have in your tank the last time you replaced bulbs and where are they located now vs. where they were located then?



Not without a lot of research on the subject. Too many people think this is the end all answer to keeping Z's -n- P's. Do your research and you will find just as many issues/horror stories related to this as you will success stories. And many of those who claim to be doing it with great success seem to just fad away. Not saying it can't be done successfully long term, just saying it takes a lot of time, information, and effort to make it work right. Too many think they can just go some vit. C off the shelf and start dumping it into their sump and its going to solve all their problems. Just my $02 worth - I'm off my soapbox now.

Thanks I guess I'll research it. I've changed bulbs 3 times with most of the same zoas. I changed bulbs months ago and the zoas have been fine up till a few weeks ago.

What are you testing your salt with?

Uh, I've never tested salt. How do you do that?

Agreed you definitely need to do you research....but my Vit C gets soaked with my mysis and brine before i feed. Its not dumped into the tank to avoid or prevent issues. I have been using it for years and (knock on wood) havent had any major outbreaks of anything.

I'll check into it.
 
I dose Vitamin C and never had any problems. But I use the regular store brand 500mg tablets with rose hips I throw a couple in my overflow of my zoa dominated 65 gallon tank every week and I think it makes a difference. But as a previous poster said research 1st
 
Wise guy huh?? LOL! I meant your salinity!
 
Wise guy huh?? LOL! I meant your salinity!

Oh sorry, I use a refractometer. I just calibrated it yesterday with Pinpoint Calibration Fluid

Have you added any lately that possibly could have introduced Zoa eating Nudi's to your tank?

Hmmmm. Not that I can think of. I will look for them.
 
Water temperature is high and you run the risk of cooking the corals on a hot day. I find that zoas/palys start to melt at 78-79 temp. This is why we keep our water temps at 76 degrees.
 

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