Extruded Aluminum Stands

[P.kapp]

I’ve seen some builds that have used extruded aluminum to build large tank stands. I’m working on one that would need to be 66”x44”x38” Tall.

Im wondering where a good source would be to buy the material, and some good insight on the best way to build one. Thanks!

 

[Utubereefer]

Those stands are awesome! I’ve never seen one in person but so cool looking. Id check out Than on YouTube. Tidal gardens page. I bet he found the best source for these!

 

[SteveL99]

I bought one from this company and love it. https://www.framingtech.com/solutions/aquarium-stands/

 

[kenbennedy]

I bought my material from tnutz.com, my stand is 48" x 36" x 36X tall. You can build whatever size stand you want.

 

[P.kapp]

I bought one from this company and love it. https://www.framingtech.com/solutions/aquarium-stands/

How was their turnaround time? I like the idea of it coming all ready to piece together

 

[P.kapp]

I bought my material from tnutz.com, my stand is 48" x 36" x 36X tall. You can build whatever size stand you want.

Did they send you pieces that were cut to size and ready to put together?

 

[kenbennedy]

Did they send you pieces that were cut to size and ready to put together?

Yes. You choose the length and machining for each piece and add the nuts and bolts. The did not do any design. Their customer service was good.

 

[csund]

I have built three stands from 8020. I purchased through 8020.net, usually takes around a month to ship.

I did not want any cut ends exposed if I could help it so my horizontal runs are between the vertical legs in shear. I used anchor fasteners which I believe are around 1000# in that configuration at each individual joint. I used external gussets (made from the same extrusion) for each top corner. Each corner has three gussets. I had a piece of 3/4” 6061 jetted for size and fasteners for the top. I counterbored each hole so the fastener wouldnt protrude. The bottoms I used 3/4 starboard, again had this jetted for the extrusion cutouts. The bottom doesn’t need holes for fasteners as it’s held captive by the legs. I had my cutouts made around .007” undersize, this eliminates any annoying gap. Make sure to have the leg ends tapped to thread matching you feet, using feet makes leveling a breeze. If you tap yourself spiral flute taps work the best since the extrusion profile I used had notches in the center hole.

I used 1515s for both 40x32 and 48x32 stands. The 40x32 has four legs and the 48x32 six. I checked deflection in the middle of the long run on the 40x32 with a dial indicator as I filled. It had no deflection and zero racking. I think we tend to way overbuild, I probably would have been fine with 1010s.