Fairly new reefer looking for any and all advice!

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Be102

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i dump a cap full of prime and stability in any time i clean. I never turn the skimmer off.
some products are more concentrated I believe.

Prime + stability. This is the stuff I'm looking for. So I'll grab a bottle of biraspira, stability and prime and do the biraspira today to just add some beneficial bacteria; then tomorrow add the capful of the others during a water change. Directly into the tank? Into the salt mix?
 

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Prime + stability. This is the stuff I'm looking for. So I'll grab a bottle of biraspira, stability and prime and do the biraspira today to just add some beneficial bacteria; then tomorrow add the capful of the others during a water change. Directly into the tank? Into the salt mix?
its really one or the other, I hope were not confusing you. any bacterial helps.
in the tank.
 

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Better safe than sorry I guess! It definitely does no harm.
i think they dont want you skim it out. I do have what some would consider a foolishly small skimmer compared to the normal recommendation. I did take the cup off when I used the probidio.
 
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its really one or the other, I hope were not confusing you. any bacterial helps.
in the tank.
One or the other regarding prime or stability? or the biraspira? I could see it being sorta excessive/unnecessary to add the biraspira.. just figured if it can't harm it it will only be helpful. - How large is your tank? will I be doing similar dosing to you? (capful)? What is this probidio that you are referring to?
 

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One or the other regarding prime or stability? or the biraspira? I could see it being sorta excessive/unnecessary to add the biraspira.. just figured if it can't harm it it will only be helpful. - How large is your tank? will I be doing similar dosing to you? (capful)? What is this probidio that you are referring to?
I have 3 tanks. The 55g w sump. on cap is 5 mil so really under powered. I use a cap full in all, cuz im lazy.
and yes you just need one bottle of something to put in.
Probidio is a fairly aggressive treatment imo. and a bit complex, kinda. I follow the directions.
warning this may make your head hurt, it half science and half marketing http://www.prodibio.com/our-products/saltwater-treatment
over the course of the year(gets complicated) I use a bit of all. mainly to see what happens(im a nutjob). Prime and stability are my go to on the shelf and are readily available where I live.
 

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If I was to get rid of this filter, what would I do? What would be some sort of cleaning system that works for my tank? I understand my skimmer does a good job at removing stuff and i suppose if the canister has nothing it in; whats the big deal.. but then I wouldn't have any sort of really flow other than the powerbeads? Maybe if I added a sump I could get rid of the canister filter? its one of these .. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3580+32937&pcatid=32937&r=619

I second the removing of the canister, but not because the canister promotes nitrates, but because lack of cleaning does. I ran a canister on a 40B for close to a year with zero nitrates, you just have to be prepared to clean every week and do not let it go more than 2 weeks. It's a pain and I would recommend a sump for that reason.
 

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I have cleaned out my canister filter about twice now I would say? First time was filled with some sort of muddy clay like stuff if I remember correctly and I think I just rinsed everything out and it was good to go. I recently did it not too long ago to actually add some sort of carbon i purchased; however it was too small; and I had no clue where in the world to put the stuff so I basically just put it all back together and started it back up. It wasn't too dirty at all. Lights out, does that mean the moonlight lights should be out as well? I honestly have never had them off other than when the main lights are on usually; which I usually put on together; (white and blues). I once had the thing set on the pre set timer and woke up to my room really dark; which never happens since I got the tank; turned the lights on to find my little midas blenny nearly white and seemed terrified :/ So since then my moonlights are always on.

I would go completely lights out for 3-4 days, but that's me. There's debate on whether or not low intensity blues do contribute to algae growth, I just find it simpler to turn all the lights off. As for the fish, I was very concerned at first, but noticed that my fish seem to lose quite a bit of color at night. From my research it's normal, except if there's heavy breathing involved and signs of illness.
 
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I second the removing of the canister, but not because the canister promotes nitrates, but because lack of cleaning does. I ran a canister on a 40B for close to a year with zero nitrates, you just have to be prepared to clean every week and do not let it go more than 2 weeks. It's a pain and I would recommend a sump for that reason.
How does the water flow work out without the canister filter? Would I replace it with some type of filtration for a sump? I am thinking that a sump is for sure one of my next purchases along with the overflow box and whatnot. I was under the impression that the tank needs the canister to have the water constantly moving along. What would be your advice? Just shut down the canister one day and remove the inlet and outlet spray bar? Its kinda unfortunate to think of spending 300+ on a filter that now is really basically useless. Who know i guess I will save it for a rainy day or if I ever turn a tank into freshwater.
 
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I have 3 tanks. The 55g w sump. on cap is 5 mil so really under powered. I use a cap full in all, cuz im lazy.
and yes you just need one bottle of something to put in.
Probidio is a fairly aggressive treatment imo. and a bit complex, kinda. I follow the directions.
warning this may make your head hurt, it half science and half marketing http://www.prodibio.com/our-products/saltwater-treatment
over the course of the year(gets complicated) I use a bit of all. mainly to see what happens(im a nutjob). Prime and stability are my go to on the shelf and are readily available where I live.
How large is the sump for the 55 gallon? Can you guys possibly check out my other thread to see my other questions? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/looking-to-buy-a-few-new-things-for-a-65-gallon.276417/
 

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How large is the sump for the 55 gallon? Can you guys possibly check out my other thread to see my other questions? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/looking-to-buy-a-few-new-things-for-a-65-gallon.276417/
I used a 30g tall because it fit my sand and did a diy baffel and put in a large refugium.
I honestly wouldn sweat it, but its great to start the plan.
for fwiw, my 30g long went about 4 years with an aqua clear and $14 hob refugium. my 30g cube currently for the most part has been an aqua clear and hob fuge.
the fuge leaked and stained the wall the mrs was mad, the aquaclear just wasnt pulling stuff out so i pulled it, the tunze 9001 in tank skimmer crapped out on me and and mostly did nothing but mess up my salinity.
so I wound up running skimmerless, and filterless with only powerheads for several months.:eek:
I just feed a bit carefully.

Its why I concentrated on your bio filter(the cycle and bacteria) more than your gear
the bio filter does the work. the other filters just help it.

yes you'll have to or want to actually, replace the can with a powerhead. good flow is just good for so many reasons..

Ill take a look.
 
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I used a 30g tall because it fit my sand and did a diy baffel and put in a large refugium.
I honestly wouldn sweat it, but its great to start the plan.
for fwiw, my 30g long went about 4 years with an aqua clear and $14 hob refugium. my 30g cube currently for the most part has been an aqua clear and hob fuge.
the fuge leaked and stained the wall the mrs was mad, the aquaclear just wasnt pulling stuff out so i pulled it, the tunze 9001 in tank skimmer crapped out on me and and mostly did nothing but mess up my salinity.
so I wound up running skimmerless, and filterless with only powerheads for several months.:eek:
I just feed a bit carefully.

Its why I concentrated on your bio filter(the cycle and bacteria) more than your gear
the bio filter does the work. the other filters just help it.

yes you'll have to or want to actually, replace the can with a powerhead. good flow is just good for so many reasons..

Ill take a look.
Thats awesome. It makes sense that with the 'live' aspect of everything that it would be easy to go without a canister filter to begin with. I guess since I also have a planted tank it would never occur to me that I didn't need the canister to begin with... seems more of the retailer upselling me rather than me requiring it. Wow. Just power heads is quite impressive and I wouldn't really think it would be possible. I will definitely grab a pack of that biospira just to add additional bacteria to my tank until I can actually set up my sump/refugium. Does the stability or prime add any bacteria? or what are those for really? to replenish the loss of the levels? You have been a tremendous help and I can't wait to update with an amazing tank! :rolleyes:
 

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Does the stability or prime add any bacteria? or what are those for really? to replenish the loss of the levels? You have been a tremendous help and I can't wait to update with an amazing tank! :rolleyes:
its bacteria. yes.
 

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How does the water flow work out without the canister filter? Would I replace it with some type of filtration for a sump? I am thinking that a sump is for sure one of my next purchases along with the overflow box and whatnot. I was under the impression that the tank needs the canister to have the water constantly moving along. What would be your advice? Just shut down the canister one day and remove the inlet and outlet spray bar? Its kinda unfortunate to think of spending 300+ on a filter that now is really basically useless. Who know i guess I will save it for a rainy day or if I ever turn a tank into freshwater.

Your MP40 should be more than enough flow , it's rated at 4,500 GPH. You can use the canister to hit dead spots or as a place for carbon, mechanical filtration or possibly GFO. It's up to you on the canister, you can make it work, but you have to be diligent on your cleaning.

I like your other idea...buy a separate tank at Petco when they have the $1 per gallon sale and have a freshwater tank!
 
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Your MP40 should be more than enough flow , it's rated at 4,500 GPH. You can use the canister to hit dead spots or as a place for carbon, mechanical filtration or possibly GFO. It's up to you on the canister, you can make it work, but you have to be diligent on your cleaning.

I like your other idea...buy a separate tank at Petco when they have the $1 per gallon sale and have a freshwater tank!

Currently actually thats how this all started... Girlfriend bought me two fish for my birthday.. 12421312 trips to petco and all other fish tanks I completely redid the tank from the substrate to the plastic plants to turn it into a planted tank for shrimp and other small freshwater fish. Its actaully on the other side of my bed. I am thinking that when the time comes I would move this 65 gallon into a lot larger one, and then start a nice 65 gallon freshwater tank. The canister does just seem like a bad idea/ could be the culprit behind all my problems all together. What I think is happening is that all the stuff the canister holds on to (nitrate/nitrite?) is basically just getting flushed through my water at all times... When you say the dead spots; are you referring to actual dead zone in my tank due to lack of flow?
 

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What I think is happening is that all the stuff the canister holds on to (nitrate/nitrite?) is basically just getting flushed through my water at all times...
its a stunted cycle due to bad originating water. imo. it has all the tell tale signs. its common esp w tap water users.
IMO IME
if it were nitrate you have cyano and green glass plus corraline.
 
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Just tested my calcium twice... for some reason my sailfert test kit doesn't seem to turn 'light blue' at all.. both times it was pink throughout the whole 1ml of the third chemical - 'ca-3' Any ideas? Will continue to test other elements now.
 

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Just tested my calcium twice... for some reason my sailfert test kit doesn't seem to turn 'light blue' at all.. both times it was pink throughout the whole 1ml of the third chemical - 'ca-3' Any ideas? Will continue to test other elements now.
Sorry, I don't use the salifert test kit for Calc although I plan on getting it next. Not thrilled with API but it works. Can't help you with this one. How are your other numbers looking?
 
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Sorry, I don't use the salifert test kit for Calc although I plan on getting it next. Not thrilled with API but it works. Can't help you with this one. How are your other numbers looking?
Currently got a ' .6 reading for all and kh , meaning Kh is 6.1 dkh? With a 2.16 Alk. Will continue to test. These are a lot harder than I expected!

Update: Ph is 8.15!
 
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Currently got a ' .6 reading for all and kh , meaning Kh is 6.1 dkh? With a 2.16 Alk. Will continue to test. These are a lot harder than I expected!
That sounds awful low. Are you sure that you are testing it correctly?
 

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