Fallen off frogspawn heads and what to do

jiffyjhn

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Hi all,

Recently I purchased some frogspawn from someone who had to move and take down their tank. They looked really healthy in the video he sent, but when I went to pick up the coral the seller told me that 2 heads had fallen off their skeletons when he was removing it from his tank.

I kept the 2 heads and put them on rubble rock/frag plugs in a acclimation box. they are still alive and have been opening up when there is light.

Is there anything else I should do for them. will they eventually attach to the frag plug and grow new skeleton?
2181A3EA-B230-49B4-8927-7F19EE7E5EDB.jpeg
 

Cell

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Nothing else you can do. It may or may not grow a new skeleton.
 

Cell

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Lost in the Sauce

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I guess just anecdotally on forums. Looking now it seems most say they cannot. I should have double checked first!
I'm not trying to put you on your heels. I've been asking this question to every person for the last 2 months I've seen, say that it may, had a possibility of, and I haven't found anybody yet. Genuinely interested if there are any documented cases. I could not find any on a Gargle search. I'm genuinely interested and hope I find someone who has actually seen it or done it.
 

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Yo @MERKEY

Have You learned anything else about this since this discussion last year?

Any documented skeletal regrowth on euphilia after polyp bailout that you've heard of?
 

vetteguy53081

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These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
 

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I'm not trying to put you on your heels. I've been asking this question to every person for the last 2 months I've seen, say that it may, had a possibility of, and I haven't found anybody yet. Genuinely interested if there are any documented cases. I could not find any on a Gargle search. I'm genuinely interested and hope I find someone who has actually seen it or done it.
There was a guy on here that had it happen to a hammer and it did regrow a skeleton. Polyp was very small which probably helped. But in general I think it’s a real long shot.
 
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jiffyjhn

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These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
The heads fell off before I purchased it, and I didn't get to see where it was in the seller's tank, only a close-up video.
As for the rest of the colony they look like they are doing great. I moved them around in my tank until found a place where they look happiest with good extension.
here is a video with their placement. I know it's a little high and close to one of the lights but I didn't want to put them in the sandbed.

 

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jiffyjhn

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Thanks for your replies.

I will keep the fallen heads on the frag plug in the acclimation box long term and hopefully skeleton will grow back. If not. oh well.
 
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jiffyjhn

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It's been a few months and thought I'd update this thread:

One of the fallen-off heads grew a new skeleton!!

I kept the fallen off heads on piece of rubble rock, hoping that it would attach itself to the rock. After a couple of months, it didn't attach itself to the rock, but at the base of the flesh a circular hard disk skeleton started forming. The head itself got larger too

I will attach some pictures when I get a chance
 

Lost in the Sauce

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It's been a few months and thought I'd update this thread:

One of the fallen-off heads grew a new skeleton!!

I kept the fallen off heads on piece of rubble rock, hoping that it would attach itself to the rock. After a couple of months, it didn't attach itself to the rock, but at the base of the flesh a circular hard disk skeleton started forming. The head itself got larger too

I will attach some pictures when I get a chance
Hey that is great to hear. Can we get some pics please?

@MERKEY @Cell
 

Scratch08

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It's been a few months and thought I'd update this thread:

One of the fallen-off heads grew a new skeleton!!

I kept the fallen off heads on piece of rubble rock, hoping that it would attach itself to the rock. After a couple of months, it didn't attach itself to the rock, but at the base of the flesh a circular hard disk skeleton started forming. The head itself got larger too

I will attach some pictures when I get a chance
I am currently working with some blastos and a Duncan head to see if they will regrow their skeleton. This gives me hope that they will.
 
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jiffyjhn

jiffyjhn

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It might be hard to tell from the picture, but you can see the parts that are whiter than others. These are hard to the touch. Actually if I squish the whole base it feels like a solid disc, but when you look at it you can only see parts of the skeleton sticking out

tempImage7sgKLW.jpg



When its opened up (inside acclimation box)
tempImageGVSnU9.jpg
 

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