Fans, fan speeds and cooling T5 bulbs for max efficiency? | BRStv Investigates

[Bigmatt]

Ati with active cooling for the win, i can literally tell if my fans stop working, the color of the tank/bulb output shifts visually to green/dim

 

[Andrew D]

Great video, very informative. I understand that cooler temperatures help preserve the ballast but what if any affect do they have on the bulb itself, not in terms of PAR but in terms of lifespan? IN other words, does a cooler bulb that runs at a lower PAR keep this PAR for longer? If so, this might be an acceptable trade-off given the price of bulbs. I've got 30 bulbs over my display and frag tank and would love to know how to run them longer at an acceptable PAR.

 

[Mono]

Interested in checking the temps of my bulbs. Figuring out how to measure the output air temp was pretty easy. But I watched the video twice but wasn't able to see how you were going about taking the temp of the input/label end or bulb cap. Any suggestions?

 

[Ryanbrs]

Ati with active cooling for the win, i can literally tell if my fans stop working, the color of the tank/bulb output shifts visually to green/dim

we should have totally measured spectrum as well.

Interested in checking the temps of my bulbs. Figuring out how to measure the output air temp was pretty easy. But I watched the video twice but wasn't able to see how you were going about taking the temp of the input/label end or bulb cap. Any suggestions?

We had to drill a hole in the shield. maybe a temp probe with a cord can go around the shield?

 

[pandimus]

So.... A retrofit, with no splash shield, and ballasts out in cool air should run at optimum par? Also I was told that proper cooling increases the longevity of the bulbs as well...

 

[A. grandis]

So.... A retrofit, with no splash shield, and ballasts out in cool air should run at optimum par? Also I was told that proper cooling increases the longevity of the bulbs as well...

The ATI fixture is unique in many aspects.

The cooling of that specific "cooling spot" of the tube might have something to do with holding the PAR in the long run as I suggested on post #8. Efficiency of the bulb may not mean higher immediate PAR readings. Remember: PAR isn't everything. It's just part of the equation too. But I know PAR is in the question here...
As BRS stated, and I agree, the cooling of the ballast is a great part of the efficiency of the ATI fixture, allowing it to run for long periods of time without burning them out. Now... it probably would have something to do with that particular type of ballast and could be part of the efficiency of running the bulbs too. Cooler ballast = stable spectrum/PAR in the long run...
The specific cooling spot of the bulb also might be directly related to keep the spectrum of the bulb stable, besides the cooling of the ballast.

I would love to have ATI answering such questions here.
Let's wait and see what they have for us.
This is a very good thread!!!
Grandis.

 

[rtparty]

So.... A retrofit, with no splash shield, and ballasts out in cool air should run at optimum par? Also I was told that proper cooling increases the longevity of the bulbs as well...

Not necessarily because more than likely the cold spot is "sealed" up by a water proof end cap. In theory, that will hold heat and not cool the bulbs properly.

Very rarely have I seen passive cooling be enough for T5s

 

[A. grandis]

Not necessarily because more than likely the cold spot is "sealed" up by a water proof end cap. In theory, that will hold heat and not cool the bulbs properly.

Very rarely have I seen passive cooling be enough for T5s

Yes, and that would be true for any fixture that don't have the direct spot cooling system as the ATI has, to tell the truth.
So the answer is obvious to me that only the ATI has such feature today...
Grandis.

 

[rtparty]

Yes, and that would be true for any fixture that don't have the direct spot cooling system as the ATI has, to tell the truth.
So the answer is obvious to me that only the ATI has such feature today...
Grandis.

I think Pacific Sun has some good cooling as well. I've never researched enough to know though with the PS fixtures

 

[A. grandis]

I think Pacific Sun has some good cooling as well. I've never researched enough to know though with the PS fixtures

Thanks for the info! Is that a direct spot cooling, like the ATI? Or similar?
Any links for Pacific Sun with the cooling systems?
That's great!
Grandis.

 

[A. grandis]

OMG!!

"ALTHEA T5
599.00€ – 879.00€

Totally new T5 fixture with ultra efficient 120mm low speed fansand WiFi computer on board. Althea will tell you when your bulbs should be replaced – and guarantee that your T5 tubes will work on 100% efficiency!
Actively cooled ballasts and bulbs with smooth controlled speed fans which allow to keep T5 bulbs ultra cooled and working on highest possible efficiency.
Silicone spacers fans to eliminate vibration.
Parabolic reflectors and anti-bending shield mount make that fixture ultimate solution for most demanding reef keepers!
First wireless(WiFi) T5 fixture for most demanding aquarists."
FROM:
http://pacific-sun.eu/shop/lighting/t5-lighting/althea-t5/

AND...

"DIUNA T5
725.00€ – 1,149.00€

ULTIMATE T5 BULB FIXTURE
Pacific Sun’s answer to T5 Reef Lighting, the Diuna offers build quality, features and control that the competition can’t match. Thanks to cooled electronic ballasts and high-quality reflectors (anodized aluminum) offers unprecedented power and performance."
FROM:
http://pacific-sun.eu/shop/lighting/t5-lighting/diuna-t5/


Are you kidding?! ;Jawdrop
NICE!
I would love to try one of these if I had to get a fixture...

Sorry!! ;Nailbiting Back to the thread!
Grandis.

 

[James72]

Have brs tested this with the ATI dimmable set? The dimm set has the temp sensor installed near to the cold spot zone and its controls the cold spot temp between 107degF to 114degF perfectly with its variable fan speed cooling without the splash guard removed.

 

[randyBRS]

Have brs tested this with the ATI dimmable set? The dimm set has the temp sensor installed near to the cold spot zone and its controls the cold spot temp between 107degF to 114degF perfectly with its variable fan speed cooling without the splash guard removed.

We were only able to test the non-dimmable version for this specific test, but what a great idea if we get to circle back to this one!

-Randy

 

[randyBRS]

Alright guys,

You asked and Ryan is answering in this week's Reef2Reef FAQ! This week Ryan is tackling questions from @solitude127 , @rtparty , and "dr salomon".

Don't forget to watch for the weekly BRStv Investigates as well as the BRStv Spotlight video threads here on R2R and be sure to get your questions posted to be answered by Ryan or Randy in the R2R FAQ!

 

[piranhaman00]

This needs a major bump!

I setup an 8 bulb Vivosun about 10” off the water with glass lids that are dirty. I set up two desk fans that were blowing over the bulbs to keep them cool, they were quite cool to the touch.

I thought the fixture seemed dim so I rented par meter to see what was actually going on, to my surprise, I was getting only 75-100 par on the sand. I was bummed and set up some led strips to help with brightness and par and figured my low par was due to the cheap fixture.

However, the fixture was pulling the correct watts so I knew it wasn’t under powering the bulbs, so I started digging and found this video! I was blowing the fans directly on the “cool spot”, it was about 65F per temp gun. I watched the video 3 times to understand and then decided with this fixture with no splash guard to turn off the fans.

I turned them off and went upstairs. Came back down 45 mins later and the tank is visibly much brighter! I was shocked, grabbed the par meter and am now getting 200 par on the sand, couldn’t believe it!

With my ambient room temp of 67F, I plan to run this without fans at all now. I really can’t believe how quickly after turning the fans off it lit the tank up.

Great video!