First ATI ICP test results...source water issues?

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KJoFan

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Handheld tds readings:

RO holding tank - 3
Tank reservoir (different also since icp test was taken) - 5
Tds directly out of RO/DI - 1 (same as inline read)

I didn’t let RO unit run for a long time but I also don’t think it should be reading 1 when DI canisters look like this:

46b24940134680468649cfc67f4b10e6.jpg


Inline tds reading from RO before DI read 7 after those few minutes of running.

Impeller from previous transfer pump:
d415ecadb1218ee85c2974a8d3bca718.jpg


Float valve:
e8e9e0174447ed4ff83f58c5d0607301.jpg


Could it be that wing nut?
 

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Handheld tds readings:

RO holding tank - 3
Tank reservoir (different also since icp test was taken) - 5
Tds directly out of RO/DI - 1 (same as inline read)

I didn’t let RO unit run for a long time but I also don’t think it should be reading 1 when DI canisters look like this:

46b24940134680468649cfc67f4b10e6.jpg


Inline tds reading from RO before DI read 7 after those few minutes of running.

Impeller from previous transfer pump:
d415ecadb1218ee85c2974a8d3bca718.jpg


Float valve:
e8e9e0174447ed4ff83f58c5d0607301.jpg


Could it be that wing nut?
Wing nut. Bet my hat on it. I’ve seen that exact kind of float valve with metal nut cause exactly this issue.
 
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Wing nut. Bet my hat on it. I’ve seen that exact kind of float valve with metal nut cause exactly this issue.
I've left it out of the holding tank for now. If that's the cause, at least it's a cheap/easy fix. Wondering if I should get some media to absorb metals in the tanks...
 
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Yes, someone else recently reported tin from a float valve that looked like that.

The rest of the things aren’t from it (sodium, etc.). Maybe some salty water or dust got into it.
Very likely could have been the case. I've since switched the container though it's not fully closed, so no surprise the TDS has crept a bit off 0.

Would that wingnut be the cause of all the elevated metals in the test? Silicon also reflects high, but maybe DI really was just at/beyond end of life at that point even if TDS wasn't showing more than 1-2.
 
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I have personally seen a rusty nut on float valve cause high metals including tin.
Ok, so the assumption is that one nut is causing the elevated metal issues overall. I shall replace it with a new one straight away.

Maybe if I can find some Cuprisorb or Metasorb when I'm in civilization this weekend I'll pick some up.

Now, if I could just figure out why nitrates insist on being 25 consistently in that frag tank with one little fish that gets fed a couple times per week in a bare bottom tank....:mad:
 

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Ok, so the assumption is that one nut is causing the elevated metal issues overall. I shall replace it with a new one straight away.

Maybe if I can find some Cuprisorb or Metasorb when I'm in civilization this weekend I'll pick some up.

Now, if I could just figure out why nitrates insist on being 25 consistently in that frag tank with one little fish that gets fed a couple times per week in a bare bottom tank....:mad:
That’s enough to keep nitrates at 25. But, if this was the cause of your acros dying, and now they get healthy, they’ll start eating up that nitrate and it’ll drop. :)
 
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That’s enough to keep nitrates at 25. But, if this was the cause of your acros dying, and now they get healthy, they’ll start eating up that nitrate and it’ll drop. :)
Here's hoping things start turning around! Then I'm going to need to re-stock. ;)
 

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Very likely could have been the case. I've since switched the container though it's not fully closed, so no surprise the TDS has crept a bit off 0.

Would that wingnut be the cause of all the elevated metals in the test? Silicon also reflects high, but maybe DI really was just at/beyond end of life at that point even if TDS wasn't showing more than 1-2.

It's possible, yes. Am I certain it's the only cause? No.

Here's the wingnut thread I mentioned:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tin-in-my-rodi-water.375401/
 
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It's possible, yes. Am I certain it's the only cause? No.

Here's the wingnut thread I mentioned:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tin-in-my-rodi-water.375401/
Of course, no one can be certain until a little time has passed, this I know. Mostly I just wondered if ALL the elevated metal readings, manganese, zinc, tin....could be tied to that one metal source. As in, would those metals be present in the metal of the wingnut. You see what I'm saying? :)

I will just have to go forward and test again in a little while to see if those metals have decreased. If not...there's another source.

My biggest concern at this point is knowing when to change DI. If part of the issue was depleted DI at the time of the test and effluent was reading 1 ppm on the TDS meter...it was already too late. So, I have to change DI while it's still at 0? With no way to know when it's actually at end of life. Maybe I'm overthinking it but seems impossible then to rely on any TDS reading and know when exactly DI needs to be changed without wasting copious amounts of money on possibly still viable DI resin...
 
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I don't think a DI that's a bit overdue for a change was the cause of this here.
I hope not. Fingers crossed it was the rusting metal and with it's discovery things can turn around. Of course, both of my 55g holding containers are currently full. :rolleyes:
 

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Of course, no one can be certain until a little time has passed, this I know. Mostly I just wondered if ALL the elevated metal readings, manganese, zinc, tin....could be tied to that one metal source. As in, would those metals be present in the metal of the wingnut. You see what I'm saying? :)

I will just have to go forward and test again in a little while to see if those metals have decreased. If not...there's another source.

My biggest concern at this point is knowing when to change DI. If part of the issue was depleted DI at the time of the test and effluent was reading 1 ppm on the TDS meter...it was already too late. So, I have to change DI while it's still at 0? With no way to know when it's actually at end of life. Maybe I'm overthinking it but seems impossible then to rely on any TDS reading and know when exactly DI needs to be changed without wasting copious amounts of money on possibly still viable DI resin...

Yes, and my response was yes. All metals used in manufacturing are alloys of multiple metals.

Change the DI when the ppm TDS rises from 0 to 1 or more and you'll be fine.

To save money, use 2 DI in series, and when the effluent after #1 rises to half of the value coming in to it, toss it, move #2 into the #1 slot, and put a new one in the #2 slot.

Alternatively, if you are not measuring all those values with inline meters, when the effluent after #2 rises to 1 ppm TDS from 0 ppm TDS, toss the first one, move #2 into the #1 slot, and put a new one in the #2 slot.
 
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Yes, and my response was yes. All metals used in manufacturing are alloys of multiple metals.

Change the DI when the ppm TDS rises from 0 to 1 or more and you'll be fine.

To save money, use 2 DI in series, and when the effluent after #1 rises to half of the value coming in to it, toss it, move #2 into the #1 slot, and put a new one in the #2 slot.

Alternatively, if you are not measuring all those values with inline meters, when the effluent after #2 rises to 1 ppm TDS from 0 ppm TDS, toss the first one, move #2 into the #1 slot, and put a new one in the #2 slot.
I do have two in series and try to do as you say, moving #2 to #1 and replacing #2. We shall see from here, hopefully I'll be turning a corner soon!
 

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Is there something besides just another one of these I should consider for a float? Or will I just run into the same problem with this one?
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ro-float-valve.html
I'd maybe look at using a float sensor instead? If you can make that work. The BRS ones all have metal on them. :( I use the neptune ATK as its entire float system has no exposed metals.
 

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You can find a plastic wing nut to replace the metal one.
 
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Maybe just skip a level control on the RO/DI. :)
I think at this time I'm not going to have any float/shut off for the RO/DI storage. It takes a day to fill anyway, if anything maybe I'll just put a timer or something on my booster pump to run for the required amount of time to fill the tank.
 

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