First ATI Water Anaylsis - opinionz

kolokele · Feb 9, 2024

Happy Friday! My first ATI test kit was analyzed - I am attaching the link and pdf.

My questions. Page 2 Minor elements - several are decreased, with a couple being critical, like Zinc being too high (not sure why that is high). Also, the phosphates and nitrates are elevated, but I knew that. Phosphates had been much higher, so I was not so concerned. This was before a water change, so when I tested a couple of days ago, it was under .1. I am a bit confused about Nitrates since I tested with my Hannah kit before I sent the sample off, and it was around 10, not 21. Also, I have never seen a phosphorus reading, but that seems very high.

Recommendations on page 5 note increasing Iodide, Iodide, Vanadium, and Manganese. I am not sure what to use for that.

The last page shows growth factors, and the first is way off -for KH -- I am not sure what that means or how to correct it.

As this was my first time having my water analyzed, I was not sure what to expect. Suggestions or comments? Thanks!

Attaching a pic of my tank, and this is the link: /share/84ebad8ea21e8a3c2ddb

taricha · Feb 10, 2024

hmmm...

Screen Shot 2024-02-10 at 8.44.11 AM.png

I think it's quite bold of them to offer a recommendation based on their ability to distinguish between 0.041ppm and their ideal of 0.066ppm.
(I'd call that "within-test-error of ideal", rather than "needing attention.")

Zinc over 100ppb would be something I'd aim to reduce.

kolokele said:
The last page shows growth factors, and the first is way off -for KH -- I am not sure what that means or how to correct it.

they are claiming that your ratio of PO4 to alk is too high. But of course your measured alk (8.9 dKH) is fine. So there's no information here other than your PO4 is higher than they recommend.

exnisstech · Feb 10, 2024

ATI couldn't even give me accurate RODI results. I sent two samples in from the same container of RODI and got two totally different results. I was testing two tanks or I would not have even known the process was that unreliable. Once I saw the rodi differences I didn't even bother looking at the tank water results because I had zero confidence and no way was I going to make changes based on the results. Just stating my experience and hoping it was an isolated incident and not the norm for ati icp tests.

taricha · Feb 10, 2024

Share the results for the curious?
@exnisstech

jda · Feb 10, 2024

If you are OK with your no3 and po4 levels, then I see nothing in that sheet that needs attention.

Without knowing the forms of the iodine, I would not dose anything. If that all was iodide, then you have perhaps too much. If it was all elemental, then perhaps too much too. If it was all iodate, then useless. If it was spread out perfectly between all of the forms, then you might be a bit low on the useful Iodide. Iodine is very complex and ICP makes it worse. If you want to study, then this is good:

Chemistry And The Aquarium: Iodine in Marine Aquaria: Part I

This first article will cover what is known about iodine in the oceans, including what forms it takes and how toxic these forms are, what organisms use it, how they obtain it, and what they use it for. It will also detail some issues around iodine measurement and what natural sources of iodine...

reefs.com

I do not know how this company measures total P. Some use a formula from the po4 test (which is usually acetic acid like a Hannah) - they do not use the plasma. Some use an acetic acid test after they convert all other types of phosphorous and phosphates to orthophosphate (po4). You also get some reaction in the vial over the days of shipping. I would trust a po4 test kit in your home if you have something good like a Hannah. I have had Hach Total P test kits before and they are usually in the range of 6-10x the po4 in my tank - not in the 320x range. This seems like a testing or reporting error to me.

kolokele · Feb 10, 2024

taricha said:
hmmm...

I think it's quite bold of them to offer a recommendation based on their ability to distinguish between 0.041ppm and their ideal of 0.066ppm.
(I'd call that "within-test-error of ideal", rather than "needing attention.")

Zinc over 100ppb would be something I'd aim to reduce.

they are claiming that your ratio of PO4 to alk is too high. But of course your measured alk (8.9 dKH) is fine. So there's no information here other than your PO4 is higher than they recommend.

Thanks for the feedback. For the Zinc, I am not clear where that is coming from. I read one article that said fish food. Is there a decent food that won't add zinc - if, in fact, that is the issue? I do a weekly water change of 2.5 gallons from a Bio16 (prob about 13-14 gallons net). I use Red Sea salt. I read about sunscreen causing this, like on a hand/arm. I clean my hands before i put in the tank but maybe i need gloves to be safe.

kolokele · Feb 10, 2024

jda said:
If you are OK with your no3 and po4 levels, then I see nothing in that sheet that needs attention.

Without knowing the forms of the iodine, I would not dose anything. If that all was iodide, then you have perhaps too much. If it was all elemental, then perhaps too much too. If it was all iodate, then useless. If it was spread out perfectly between all of the forms, then you might be a bit low on the useful Iodide. Iodine is very complex and ICP makes it worse. If you want to study, then this is good:

Chemistry And The Aquarium: Iodine in Marine Aquaria: Part I

This first article will cover what is known about iodine in the oceans, including what forms it takes and how toxic these forms are, what organisms use it, how they obtain it, and what they use it for. It will also detail some issues around iodine measurement and what natural sources of iodine...

reefs.com

I do not know how this company measures total P. Some use a formula from the po4 test (which is usually acetic acid like a Hannah) - they do not use the plasma. Some use an acetic acid test after they convert all other types of phosphorous and phosphates to orthophosphate (po4). You also get some reaction in the vial over the days of shipping. I would trust a po4 test kit in your home if you have something good like a Hannah. I have had Hach Total P test kits before and they are usually in the range of 6-10x the po4 in my tank - not in the 320x range. This seems like a testing or reporting error to me.

I can check out the Hanna Total P. I am still struggling with knowing what is right and wrong on the no3 and po4, but it seems if I can keep the po4 under .2 and nitrates below 15 according to my tests, the tank seems fine. I am a little puzzled as to why their PO4 and no3 are higher than my Hanna kit, though.