- Joined
- Aug 22, 2026
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 22
- Location
- Miami
- What state or country do you live in
- Florida
Hello everyone,
I'm new to R2R but not so much to the hobby. After a 15-year hiatus, I am finally able to set up an aquarium again. The technology, knowledge, best practices, and community have changed a lot over the last decade and a half, so I look forward to getting in tune with everything again.
I will be setting up a new-to-me RedSea Reefer 250. I got a descent deal on it and finally pulled the trigger. It came with the display tank, stand, and sump + ATO boxes. Like my last aquarium, I hope to source most of its livestock myself. I've been out of the game for a while so I will start with a FOWLR system showcasing some native FL reef fish and inverts. I might add some cnidarians in the future, but will stay away from stony corals for now.
I'm still waiting on some gear that's in the mail and looking to finalize some decisions. I hope to add sand, rocks, and water in the next week or so to start a fishless cycle. I'll describe some of the gear and the two mods I have done so far. I look forward to any tips people might have.
Gear list
- System: RedSea Reefer 250 system (tank + stand + sump + ATO)
- Filtration 1: Media cups, courtesy of previous owner
- Filtration 2: RSK 300 Reefer Internal Protein Skimmer
- Return pump: Sicce Syncra SDC 3.0 (they have WiFi now!?!?)
- In-tank flow and circulation: TBD, suggestions welcome
- Lighting: TBD, suggestions welcome.
- Temperature control: TBD, I want to see how much and in which direction the tank's temperature fluctuate
Mod 1: Removable doors
The sump area is well designed, but it's still a bit tight under there. Within a day of getting this in the house I decided I did not like having the doors on hinges because they were constantly in the way. I therefore did away with the hinges and am now holding the doors in place with magnets. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well they stay put.
The process was straightforward: 1) Remove doors, 2) use countersink drill bit to drill two pockets in each door, 3) add magnets with superglue, 4) add metallic cups to the stand, 5) add a 90° 1.5 x 1.5" aluminium ledge to the bottom of the cabinet and some rubber padding to prevent the doors from slipping. Photos of the process below.
Doors off.
Added two neodymium magnets to each door.
The doors rest on this aluminium profile, lined with sticky rubber to add some traction (Wood planks were there while I was testing the idea; Black tote might be converted into a refugium).
The right door is mounted, resting on the aluminium profile and held securely in place by the magnets at the top (cable management not done, see below).
Mod 2: Side panels and cable management(ish)
The second modification was to add two pegboards inside, one in each side of the sump space. I plan on using them as a sacrificial surface onto which I can screw and glue things while I figure out what goes where. Down the line I might upgrade to one of the out-of-the-box products, but this will do for now. I also took this opportunity to add an LED light bar throughout and installed cable clamps on the top and sides. The powerstrip in there will be swapped for a more modern one with individual switches too. I might splurge for a dedicated reef system one.
Panel on the right side of the cabinet
Some components and cables already in place
Ready for some water, with cables from the return and skimmer pumps running up the left wall, across the "ceiling", and down the right. I'm also keeping the skimmer cup drain hose out of the way by keeping it on the "ceiling". I'd be curious to hear how others have dealt with it.
I can so far ask three questions:
- Recommendations on in-tank water flow?
- Recommendations for lighting? (No need for LPS / SPS level of lighting yet. I am most interested in build quality, good temperature control, and ability to set a photoperiod.)
- I am hoping to run the drain pipe directly. That is, without the diaphragm valve. I will instead rely on the DC pump to control flow. Thoughts / tips?
Looking forward to reading your thoughts and suggestions.
I'm new to R2R but not so much to the hobby. After a 15-year hiatus, I am finally able to set up an aquarium again. The technology, knowledge, best practices, and community have changed a lot over the last decade and a half, so I look forward to getting in tune with everything again.
I will be setting up a new-to-me RedSea Reefer 250. I got a descent deal on it and finally pulled the trigger. It came with the display tank, stand, and sump + ATO boxes. Like my last aquarium, I hope to source most of its livestock myself. I've been out of the game for a while so I will start with a FOWLR system showcasing some native FL reef fish and inverts. I might add some cnidarians in the future, but will stay away from stony corals for now.
I'm still waiting on some gear that's in the mail and looking to finalize some decisions. I hope to add sand, rocks, and water in the next week or so to start a fishless cycle. I'll describe some of the gear and the two mods I have done so far. I look forward to any tips people might have.
Gear list
- System: RedSea Reefer 250 system (tank + stand + sump + ATO)
- Filtration 1: Media cups, courtesy of previous owner
- Filtration 2: RSK 300 Reefer Internal Protein Skimmer
- Return pump: Sicce Syncra SDC 3.0 (they have WiFi now!?!?)
- In-tank flow and circulation: TBD, suggestions welcome
- Lighting: TBD, suggestions welcome.
- Temperature control: TBD, I want to see how much and in which direction the tank's temperature fluctuate
Mod 1: Removable doors
The sump area is well designed, but it's still a bit tight under there. Within a day of getting this in the house I decided I did not like having the doors on hinges because they were constantly in the way. I therefore did away with the hinges and am now holding the doors in place with magnets. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well they stay put.
The process was straightforward: 1) Remove doors, 2) use countersink drill bit to drill two pockets in each door, 3) add magnets with superglue, 4) add metallic cups to the stand, 5) add a 90° 1.5 x 1.5" aluminium ledge to the bottom of the cabinet and some rubber padding to prevent the doors from slipping. Photos of the process below.
Doors off.
Added two neodymium magnets to each door.
The doors rest on this aluminium profile, lined with sticky rubber to add some traction (Wood planks were there while I was testing the idea; Black tote might be converted into a refugium).
The right door is mounted, resting on the aluminium profile and held securely in place by the magnets at the top (cable management not done, see below).
Mod 2: Side panels and cable management(ish)
The second modification was to add two pegboards inside, one in each side of the sump space. I plan on using them as a sacrificial surface onto which I can screw and glue things while I figure out what goes where. Down the line I might upgrade to one of the out-of-the-box products, but this will do for now. I also took this opportunity to add an LED light bar throughout and installed cable clamps on the top and sides. The powerstrip in there will be swapped for a more modern one with individual switches too. I might splurge for a dedicated reef system one.
Panel on the right side of the cabinet
Some components and cables already in place
Ready for some water, with cables from the return and skimmer pumps running up the left wall, across the "ceiling", and down the right. I'm also keeping the skimmer cup drain hose out of the way by keeping it on the "ceiling". I'd be curious to hear how others have dealt with it.
I can so far ask three questions:
- Recommendations on in-tank water flow?
- Recommendations for lighting? (No need for LPS / SPS level of lighting yet. I am most interested in build quality, good temperature control, and ability to set a photoperiod.)
- I am hoping to run the drain pipe directly. That is, without the diaphragm valve. I will instead rely on the DC pump to control flow. Thoughts / tips?
Looking forward to reading your thoughts and suggestions.
