First build in 15 years: Reefer 250

jcvd

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Hello everyone,

I'm new to R2R but not so much to the hobby. After a 15-year hiatus, I am finally able to set up an aquarium again. The technology, knowledge, best practices, and community have changed a lot over the last decade and a half, so I look forward to getting in tune with everything again.

I will be setting up a new-to-me RedSea Reefer 250. I got a descent deal on it and finally pulled the trigger. It came with the display tank, stand, and sump + ATO boxes. Like my last aquarium, I hope to source most of its livestock myself. I've been out of the game for a while so I will start with a FOWLR system showcasing some native FL reef fish and inverts. I might add some cnidarians in the future, but will stay away from stony corals for now.

I'm still waiting on some gear that's in the mail and looking to finalize some decisions. I hope to add sand, rocks, and water in the next week or so to start a fishless cycle. I'll describe some of the gear and the two mods I have done so far. I look forward to any tips people might have.

Gear list
- System: RedSea Reefer 250 system (tank + stand + sump + ATO)
- Filtration 1: Media cups, courtesy of previous owner
- Filtration 2: RSK 300 Reefer Internal Protein Skimmer
- Return pump: Sicce Syncra SDC 3.0 (they have WiFi now!?!?)
- In-tank flow and circulation: TBD, suggestions welcome
- Lighting: TBD, suggestions welcome.
- Temperature control: TBD, I want to see how much and in which direction the tank's temperature fluctuate

Mod 1: Removable doors
The sump area is well designed, but it's still a bit tight under there. Within a day of getting this in the house I decided I did not like having the doors on hinges because they were constantly in the way. I therefore did away with the hinges and am now holding the doors in place with magnets. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well they stay put.

The process was straightforward: 1) Remove doors, 2) use countersink drill bit to drill two pockets in each door, 3) add magnets with superglue, 4) add metallic cups to the stand, 5) add a 90° 1.5 x 1.5" aluminium ledge to the bottom of the cabinet and some rubber padding to prevent the doors from slipping. Photos of the process below.

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Doors off.

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Added two neodymium magnets to each door.

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The doors rest on this aluminium profile, lined with sticky rubber to add some traction (Wood planks were there while I was testing the idea; Black tote might be converted into a refugium).

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The right door is mounted, resting on the aluminium profile and held securely in place by the magnets at the top (cable management not done, see below).

Mod 2: Side panels and cable management(ish)
The second modification was to add two pegboards inside, one in each side of the sump space. I plan on using them as a sacrificial surface onto which I can screw and glue things while I figure out what goes where. Down the line I might upgrade to one of the out-of-the-box products, but this will do for now. I also took this opportunity to add an LED light bar throughout and installed cable clamps on the top and sides. The powerstrip in there will be swapped for a more modern one with individual switches too. I might splurge for a dedicated reef system one.

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Panel on the right side of the cabinet

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Some components and cables already in place

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Ready for some water, with cables from the return and skimmer pumps running up the left wall, across the "ceiling", and down the right. I'm also keeping the skimmer cup drain hose out of the way by keeping it on the "ceiling". I'd be curious to hear how others have dealt with it.

I can so far ask three questions:
- Recommendations on in-tank water flow?
- Recommendations for lighting? (No need for LPS / SPS level of lighting yet. I am most interested in build quality, good temperature control, and ability to set a photoperiod.)
- I am hoping to run the drain pipe directly. That is, without the diaphragm valve. I will instead rely on the DC pump to control flow. Thoughts / tips?

Looking forward to reading your thoughts and suggestions.
 
Following along!
 
Quick update. 40 lb of rocks and 40 lb of sand (CariBSea Aragonite Special Grade) arrived yesterday. I've put together an initial aquascape. There are a 2-4 inches of space behind the pillars. I used all the rock and about 35lb of the sand. I am tempted to add the remaining 5 lb. Thoughts on this?

The structure on the left has plenty of crevices, you just can't see them from this angle. I still want to provide a bit more structure for the fish so I just put in another order for 5 more pounds of smaller rock pieces that I'll use along with two medium-sized rocks currently hidden behind the pillars.

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I was able to get water in the tank earlier this week (Tuesday night). I used filtered sea water instead of having to mix / buy it. The water was cloudy as expected but it took just 24-36 hours for it to clear up. Now that I see it full of water I can get a better sense of the spaces, and I am convinced I will need (want?) more rock, both for aesthetic and practical purposes. I've got 10 lb more on the way...

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I then spent a few days trying to get the flow between display and sump to work using a direct connection (no diaphragm / gate valve). Turns out my return pump (Syncra 3.0 DC pump), even at max flow rate, could not match the drain rate and I was getting the horrible gargling noises every 30 seconds. I decided to go back to using the diaphragm valve to control drain rate. Playing with the valve and the pump flow rate I got the water level in the overflow box to sit just below the emergency drain pipe. After I was happy with water levels in display and sump, I proceeded to install and adjust the ATO float and kick start the cycle with some Dr. Tim's one and only bacteria soup thing + ammonium chloride.

Sat Sep 5 - Day 1 parameters (before adding anything):
- NH3: 0.5 ppm
- NO2: not detectable
- NO3: not detectable

I then added bacteria + ammonium chloride and waited ~24 hours before measuring again.

Sun Sep 6 - Day 2 parameters
- NH3: ~2ppm
- NO2: not detectable
- NO3: not detectable

It looks like I'll be adding more ammonium chloride tomorrow to keep the N input going.

As a side note... I have been monitoring the temperature throughout the day and it's stable between 77°F and 78°F. It looks like temperature control might not be a huge issue after all. By this I mean fans + heaters might be enough, no need for a chiller.

I'll post the evolution of parameters over the next week or so.
 
This will probably be the last update here. I'll be upgrading the system to better fit my space. I'll start a new tank thread once the new system, a WaterBox Marine X 100.4 arrives in a few weeks. In the meantime, all rocks and sand are now in a yellow-lid tote and the Reefer 250 is up for sale.

This is what the last aquascape looked like before disassembly:


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WHICH KIND OF INVERT HAS CAUSED THE MOST MISCHIEF IN YOUR TANK?

  • Sea urchins

    Votes: 16 22.9%
  • Hermit crabs

    Votes: 12 17.1%
  • Other crabs

    Votes: 5 7.1%
  • Shrimp

    Votes: 6 8.6%
  • Snails or conchs

    Votes: 3 4.3%
  • Sea stars

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Anemones

    Votes: 12 17.1%
  • None! My inverts are model citizens. :-)

    Votes: 12 17.1%
  • Something else (tell us in the comments)

    Votes: 4 5.7%
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