Fish dying and need opinions

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all,

I have had a serious outbreak of dinos that I have been battling for almost 2 years. Over this passed weekend, I lost two lyretail anthias and as of last night, my yellow tang. I have a mandarin goby, ruby head wrasse, blue green chromis, and (2) bangai cardinals left. Tank is a mixed reef, ~3yrs old.

Parameters:
1.026 SG
7.9 pH
0 Ammonia
0 Nitrites
2ppm Nitrates
0.08 PO4
8.3 dKH

Im in the process of curing and cycling new rock in a tote to go into a new 110g display for an eventual display swap in a few months. I plan on seeding the new rock with rotifiers, phyto, different pods, and GARF eventually and slowly. I am not using any rock from my current tank.

But I was wondering, should I just remove the remaining fish and put them in a QT and treat them? But what about the mandarin?

And can I just remove all the water, rock, sand and corals from the current display and clean off the corals and any rock ruble they are attached to and just fill the old display with new water half way up and just keep them in there with a power head and heater (CUC will remain in there also)? Would entail me disconnecting the HOB overflow, doing manual top offs and taking the Apex offline as well. I want to keep the display fallow for a few months so I can kill any parasite off just in case they are dying from something like that.

Does that sound ok?

Thanks in advance!
 

Flippers4pups

Fins up since 1993
View Badges
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
18,493
Reaction score
44,499
Location
Lake Saint Louis, Mo
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all,

I have had a serious outbreak of dinos that I have been battling for almost 2 years. Over this passed weekend, I lost two lyretail anthias and as of last night, my yellow tang. I have a mandarin goby, ruby head wrasse, blue green chromis, and (2) bangai cardinals left. Tank is a mixed reef, ~3yrs old.

Parameters:
1.026 SG
7.9 pH
0 Ammonia
0 Nitrites
2ppm Nitrates
0.08 PO4
8.3 dKH

Im in the process of curing and cycling new rock in a tote to go into a new 110g display for an eventual display swap in a few months. I plan on seeding the new rock with rotifiers, phyto, different pods, and GARF eventually and slowly. I am not using any rock from my current tank.

But I was wondering, should I just remove the remaining fish and put them in a QT and treat them? But what about the mandarin?

And can I just remove all the water, rock, sand and corals from the current display and clean off the corals and any rock ruble they are attached to and just fill the old display with new water half way up and just keep them in there with a power head and heater (CUC will remain in there also)? Would entail me disconnecting the HOB overflow, doing manual top offs and taking the Apex offline as well. I want to keep the display fallow for a few months so I can kill any parasite off just in case they are dying from something like that.

Does that sound ok?

Thanks in advance!

Did the fish listed have any signs of Or parasites?

When was the last time you had any fish?

Dino’s Diane will release some toxins in the water depending on the strain, When they die off. To what extent the toxins can kill fish is debatable.
 

Gareth elliott

Read, Tinker, Fail, Learn
View Badges
Joined
May 7, 2017
Messages
5,470
Reaction score
6,903
Location
NJ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
2 years of dino outbreak?

I would up your gac, most of the toxins dinos do make are readily picked up by it. Could also pick up any other contaminants that made their way in. Perhaps also up your aeration, another possible cause of death by algae bloom is lowered DO.

By chance preform a necropsy on any of the fish that perished?

As for the dinos i would at this point invest in a large UV.
 
OP
OP
Samina

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
They didn’t have any signs of anything. No flashing, breathing heavy, or anything out of the norm. They were all eating great as well. All the deaths happened sometime overnight and when I would look at the tank in the morning, I would notice.

Last time I added fish was the yellow tang and that was over 7 months ago. I will be honest and say that I never QT’d anything before. But I actually have everything now to set one up because I plan on QT’ing everything for the new display. I was going to treat them anyhow before they entered the new display in a few months. But the deaths are just coming out of nowhere and I cant figure out why so I’m wondering if I should just do that now.
 

Skynyrd Fish

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
2,083
Reaction score
4,868
Location
Beverly Hills MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Put in an air stone for more oxygen. Don't the dinos release or die at night? could be a toxin release. Sorry about your fish. That sucks.
 
OP
OP
Samina

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
2 years of dino outbreak?

I would up your gac, most of the toxins dinos do make are readily picked up by it. Could also pick up any other contaminants that made their way in. Perhaps also up your aeration, another possible cause of death by algae bloom is lowered DO.

By chance preform a necropsy on any of the fish that perished?

As for the dinos i would at this point invest in a large UV.

Yes, 2 long years of it! I have tried everything. I have a Pentair UV oversized for my system, tried the dirty method, blackouts, I dose NO3 and PO4, I have a BRS carbon reactor filled up and running also. According to the Apex, my ORP is following its normal swings. I know that doesn’t say much for DO but I also have a CO2 scrubber hooked onto the skimmer that helps keep pH in range and I haven’t noticed that declining either. I don’t even use the skimmer cup on the skimmer anymore because I am trying to let the tank retain its DOC to help increase nutrient load because it bottoms out very quickly.

I have never done an autopsy on a fish before. Not sure what I would be looking for or how to do either.
 
OP
OP
Samina

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Put in an air stone for more oxygen. Don't the dinos release or die at night? could be a toxin release. Sorry about your fish. That sucks.

Thanks, I am pretty bummed about it. I am just getting so frustrated with all the issues I have had with this system. In all fairness, I made many mistakes with it but it’s been a bumpy road for sure!
 

Gareth elliott

Read, Tinker, Fail, Learn
View Badges
Joined
May 7, 2017
Messages
5,470
Reaction score
6,903
Location
NJ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yes, 2 long years of it! I have tried everything. I have a Pentair UV oversized for my system, tried the dirty method, blackouts, I dose NO3 and PO4, I have a BRS carbon reactor filled up and running also. According to the Apex, my ORP is following its normal swings. I know that doesn’t say much for DO but I also have a CO2 scrubber hooked onto the skimmer that helps keep pH in range and I haven’t noticed that declining either. I don’t even use the skimmer cup on the skimmer anymore because I am trying to let the tank retain its DOC to help increase nutrient load because it bottoms out very quickly.

I have never done an autopsy on a fish before. Not sure what I would be looking for or how to do either.

You want to rule out other causes of death.

Look at fins and scales for any injuries or illness.
Look at gills for any damage compare to online pictures of healthy gills.

Eyes, compare to how they looked them alive and healthy. Mot useful if done long after passing, eyes will start decomposing quickly.
 
OP
OP
Samina

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So I did (more like attempted!) the necropsy on one of the anthias. Attached are the pics. Let me know what you think! I am not too keen on observed what fish diseases look like unless they are blatantly obvious so I put is definitely appreciated on this!

ee2cf81308e9d4a63ca0abcf835cf9d8.jpg
a8ba364b615933061462dfda28e8c319.jpg
ac4c282c1732a09d8ad297973752b484.jpg
8a1ea98fa562f90795ca8a0f5479710b.jpg
8420227356d2146dd5a4be86cba959d8.jpg
 

Tuan’s Reef

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 27, 2018
Messages
3,833
Reaction score
3,626
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Sorry for your lose . Not an expert or remotely close to one, but what’s that line from the eye to the fins ? Doesn’t look like it’s on the other side
 
OP
OP
Samina

Samina

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,077
Reaction score
3,711
Location
Long Valley
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Sorry for your lose . Not an expert or remotely close to one, but what’s that line from the eye to the fins ? Doesn’t look like it’s on the other side

Thanks, I think that is normal. He always had that orangish bar extending to his eye and on pics of different male lyretail anthias online it seems normal (from what I can tell)
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT AMOUNT OF LIVE ROCK AND SAND SHOULD BE PRIORITIZED FOR OPTIMAL BIODIVERSITY/FILTRATION?

  • 100% live rock + bagged sand

    Votes: 38 27.0%
  • 100% dry rock + 100% live sand

    Votes: 47 33.3%
  • 50/50 live/dry rock, 50/50 live/bagged sand

    Votes: 32 22.7%
  • 75% live rock, 25% live sand

    Votes: 14 9.9%
  • 25% live rock, 75% live sand

    Votes: 10 7.1%
Back
Top