Fishroom Reality Check

[NY_Caveman]

In before @Victoria M steals my 500

Nice!

 

[Victoria M]

You, sir, suck!

 

[User]

You, sir, suck!

Huh, you know me pretty well even after such a short time knowing me

 

[User]

Just going to drop this here...

 

[User]

Wife is out of town for 2 days next week- in laws are coming to take the girls, so I’ll have 2 full straight days to work on tank related stuff!!

So, this didn’t happen. Sometimes grandparents are as much work as the babies.

Sigh. Not sure when I’m going to get down there this week, other than quick 5 minute checks

 

[User]

Really starting to get the hang of the copper dosing... measured the QT volume by refilling it using s gallon milk jug and calculating my dose to the nearest 3 decimal places. Nailed it!


So- I went by the lfs the other day to scope out a few dispar anthias that I let the owner know I was interested in a couple weeks ago. Turns out he had 5 left- and they looked good too. All taking frozen mysis, good activity, schooling. Awesome. I had him bag those up, and plan to add 4 more in a few weeks when he gets more in.

They are currently in copper QT, ramping up to therapeutic 1.75ppm.


I also left with a scooter blenny. Unplanned. Since he’s a dragonet, I knew they would have issues with copper, later confirmed by Humblefish that they absolutely would not tolerate any copper. Uh oh. Worse than I thought.

So he’s hanging out in the shoebox QT, no copper, and appears to be eating frozen mysis. Plan is to do TTM until I figure out a source fir chloroquine phosphate- he isn’t getting anywhere near the DT without prophylactic velvet treatment, and that’s really the only way to be sure. There was s suggestion that I maybe keep him in extended observation then add a sacrificial damsel to test if he is carrying anything, but that seems kinda cruel.

Problem is, no vet around here will write a script for CP, and I’m running the risk of adding impurities or inaccurate concentrations of CP if I don’t get the human prescription stuff. If I end up with a crap batch, I’ll only find out once I add him to DT and Michal J Foxface or CJ Craig get velvet. Not really a risk I’m happy with.

Any ideas?


Also in QT is Toby, the Randall’s goby. Hes on day 3 of his second GC dose, then I plan to observe for an additional few weeks until the Alpheus randalli pistol shrimp arrives and molts. Then I’ll pair them up for a few days then put in DT. He’s been through 14 days copper plus 3 day ramp, 2 x GC and some metroplex every 48hr.

Also coming is a pink spotted goby, time TBD, but not before the anthias move to non-copper QT, so at least 16 days.

Made a couple big decisions recently.

1) this point of sale overflow needs to go. I’m getting ducks in a row then I’m tossing it in the trash. I might use it on my frag tank IF I can get it quiet at 400gph. IF.


2) as soon as Toby is out of QT, the secondary QT location will be revamped and expanded, to fit my 40b coral QT, and invert 10g, while the primary QT area will be streamlined for 2x fish QTs. Then a tertiary ‘stand by’ location for ‘other issues’ will be prepared.

So, i went from a TTM station of 2x 10g tanks to 3 locations, each 10 feet from the others and the water production area, and a total of 5 tanks for QT.

3) going for a viparspectra black box for the Coral QT. Plan to get first corals sometime around middle of February. Some hammers and micromussa, maybe a monti if I find a nice pink piece.

4) my tank needs pods. Planning to set up a small phyto and pod production area and seed with some bottled pods. I DONT intend to QT the pods, and that has been a hard decision to make, but from what I’ve been reading, pretty much all pod production is done in fishless systems. Hope this doesn’t bite me in the butt.

5) need to get my electronics bits and pieces organized so I can build my lights. I’ve kind of already bought into doing a diy array (hit a bunch of 10w LEDs, some 3w’s, controller, power supplies, aluminum heatsink —a 4 foot long makerSlim— fans and rough plans) since I was originally going to be doing this build 2 years ago up in Nashville. I’d hate to have all that stuff go to waste, and if it ends up being inadequate for the DT, I could always retask it to the frag grow out later.


Now- a complicating factor in all this is that I’m a SAHD with 2 under 3year old girls, and a wife that travels for 10 days a month. And we bought a 30% fixer upper to raise our girls in. So, yeah, the honey-do list is kinda long and time kinda short.

 

[Dubs83]

Really starting to get the hang of the copper dosing... measured the QT volume by refilling it using s gallon milk jug and calculating my dose to the nearest 3 decimal places. Nailed it!


So- I went by the lfs the other day to scope out a few dispar anthias that I let the owner know I was interested in a couple weeks ago. Turns out he had 5 left- and they looked good too. All taking frozen mysis, good activity, schooling. Awesome. I had him bag those up, and plan to add 4 more in a few weeks when he gets more in.

They are currently in copper QT, ramping up to therapeutic 1.75ppm.


I also left with a scooter blenny. Unplanned. Since he’s a dragonet, I knew they would have issues with copper, later confirmed by Humblefish that they absolutely would not tolerate any copper. Uh oh. Worse than I thought.

So he’s hanging out in the shoebox QT, no copper, and appears to be eating frozen mysis. Plan is to do TTM until I figure out a source fir chloroquine phosphate- he isn’t getting anywhere near the DT without prophylactic velvet treatment, and that’s really the only way to be sure. There was s suggestion that I maybe keep him in extended observation then add a sacrificial damsel to test if he is carrying anything, but that seems kinda cruel.

Problem is, no vet around here will write a script for CP, and I’m running the risk of adding impurities or inaccurate concentrations of CP if I don’t get the human prescription stuff. If I end up with a crap batch, I’ll only find out once I add him to DT and Michal J Foxface or CJ Craig get velvet. Not really a risk I’m happy with.

Any ideas?


Also in QT is Toby, the Randall’s goby. Hes on day 3 of his second GC dose, then I plan to observe for an additional few weeks until the Alpheus randalli pistol shrimp arrives and molts. Then I’ll pair them up for a few days then put in DT. He’s been through 14 days copper plus 3 day ramp, 2 x GC and some metroplex every 48hr.

Also coming is a pink spotted goby, time TBD, but not before the anthias move to non-copper QT, so at least 16 days.

I’m impressed with how you’re handling your QT. And I’m glad you’re a little slightly ahead of me in this game so I can emulate your hard work and dedication. Truly motivating!

Made a couple big decisions recently.

1) this point of sale overflow needs to go. I’m getting ducks in a row then I’m tossing it in the trash. I might use it on my frag tank IF I can get it quiet at 400gph. IF.

Do it! The cost is really insignificant when you consider what you’re getting.

3) going for a viparspectra black box for the Coral QT. Plan to get first corals sometime around middle of February. Some hammers and micromussa, maybe a monti if I find a nice pink piece.

I use one of their lights for my fuge. So far so good

5) need to get my electronics bits and pieces organized so I can build my lights. I’ve kind of already bought into doing a diy array (hit a bunch of 10w LEDs, some 3w’s, controller, power supplies, aluminum heatsink —a 4 foot long makerSlim— fans and rough plans) since I was originally going to be doing this build 2 years ago up in Nashville. I’d hate to have all that stuff go to waste, and if it ends up being inadequate for the DT, I could always retask it to the frag grow out later.

Please do a write up on this!

 

[User]

I’m impressed with how you’re handling your QT. And I’m glad you’re a little slightly ahead of me in this game so I can emulate your hard work and dedication. Truly motivating!



Do it! The cost is really insignificant when you consider what you’re getting.



I use one of their lights for my fuge. So far so good



Please do a write up on this!

Thanks man, appreciate it.

Yeah- the overflow is a big issue. The tank is on my wife’s office and she’s had bosses call her out twice while on calls because of the noise. I’m kinda peeved (understated due to the snowflake filter...). I have so e measurements to make them I’m going full custom. Internal box too. The teeth are trapping too much crap and the straight weir will give better skim

Re:Qt.i think it’s to do with my missing my old workbench in the lab and this lets me play scientist fir a few minutes per day. I like 3 sig figs and accuracy, and there isn’t much of that in diaper changes and bottle feeding sessions.

Definitely do a light build thread. I bought parts a couple years ago now so my plans are probably outdated, so I might update the cobs I planned to use and do a different spectrum. Power supplies and controllers are the same though- 60v 7amp x 2 and a coralux storm with 4 channels on 100% dimmable drivers. That’ll get me to about 12000 lumens if I max out the power supplies (900 lumens per amp x 14). Not really, due to tech reasons eg royal blue and UV aren’t in ‘lumens’.

Day 2 of new arrivals and everyone is eating fine. Another day ramping copper for the anthias then I can start with GC and metroplex chaser to combat any potential uronema, flukes and worms that are hangin out

Cheers

 

[User]

I mentioned above that I was going to add GC and met to my copper QT. I MISPOKE. I don’t need the added complication of the praziquantel in the GC causing any sort of bacterial bloom

Correction- I’ll be adding metroplex every 48 hours while my Dispar anthias are in 1.75ppm copper to combat potential Uronema infection.

Additional update: anthias are eating and chasing frozen brine shrimp (letting it swirl about in the flow of the filter)

The little scooter blenny is actively eating frozen brine shrimp, so that’s a relief. He’s also a jumper. I topped off with rodi and the little dude jumped straight up about 4” so that was a little freaky. Landed back in the shoe box QT, so he’s all good.

 

[User]

 

[Victoria M]

Looking fabulous.

 

[User]

Looking fabulous.

Thanks VM- how you feeling?

I hate the lights- right now they are a pair of led shoplights, 3500k, since fish only don’t need anything other than that. So yellow and gross though

I’m soooooo looking forward to getting my led array build and getting my corals in. I’m getting a black box for coral QT and setting that up next week. Gives me 76 days to get the light build done, lol

 

[Victoria M]

Thanks VM- how you feeling?

I hate the lights- right now they are a pair of led shoplights, 3500k, since fish only don’t need anything other than that. So yellow and gross though

I’m soooooo looking forward to getting my led array build and getting my corals in. I’m getting a black box for coral QT and setting that up next week. Gives me 76 days to get the light build done, lol

I am still very up and down. A hair better each day.
I will update my thread with reef stuff today. Yeah!
The tank looks nice. It is still in its baby stages, we all know that. But when I see that FTS I appreciate its beauty. I don’t think “eww gross”. Lol.
Tell me more about this black box light. I am wanting to set up a coral QT also.

 

[User]

I am still very up and down. A hair better each day.
I will update my thread with reef stuff today. Yeah!
The tank looks nice. It is still in its baby stages, we all know that. But when I see that FTS I appreciate its beauty. I don’t think “eww gross”. Lol.
Tell me more about this black box light. I am wanting to set up a coral QT also.

Just some basic $100 amazon/eBay light.

Many clones like it have been used successfully for all sorts of corals, and <$120 fits my QT budget. I don’t need growth, I really just need them to survive through QT without ‘getting sick’ from lack of light

I’m thinking 165w viparspectra with timer from amazon

 

[Victoria M]

What size tank?
I would like to find a good light for a 10 gallon corals QT.

 

[User]

What size tank?
I would like to find a good light for a 10 gallon corals QT.

It’s a 40b

I have it available -was intended as a large observation QT after prophylactic treatments, but I’m staggering smaller numbers instead.

I’ll put the light biased towards one side and only use 24” of the tank width to keep par as recommended. Extra ‘unpopulated’ water volume won’t hurt. Don’t need 100% light coverage if I’m only placing corals in 2/3 of it

 

[User]

A week ago...

Now...

Diatoms are finally receding. About time.

But I have some Cyanobacteria

And algae taking hold

And this girl is not camera shy on the least

her colors are really starting to pop. I’ve been feeding TDO Chroma Boost, and I like to think its making a difference

 

[User]

One of my 5 little dispars passed. Looks like it wasn’t eating. Really thin looking.

I now have 3 plump and one ‘lean’ anthias in the QT. Still have a week to go in copper. Kinda bummed.

Tiny the Randall’s Goby graduates QT today!

And Benny the scooter blenny moves up a tank size, and starts CP later this week

 

[Dubs83]

One of my 5 little dispars passed. Looks like it wasn’t eating. Really thin looking.

I now have 3 plump and one ‘lean’ anthias in the QT. Still have a week to go in copper. Kinda bummed.

Tiny the Randall’s Goby graduates QT today!

And Benny the scooter blenny moves up a tank size, and starts CP later this week

Sorry about the dispar. But all in all it sounds like everyone is doing great.

 

[User]

Yeah, I’m bummed but I have several fish that seem to be healthy and eating. I think I might lose one more based on its body shape compared to the other 3. I’m toying with isolating it and target feeding, but with wife in France and daycare off due to ‘snow’ it’s hard to see how I’m going to get time.

I’m going to try to carve out an hour later