Float Switch on RO Container

[rskarvan]

Recently bought this RO container used. It has a float switch installed, but I'm not sure how I would go about making it functional. Does anyone know how to go about getting an RO unit hooked up to this float switch? See pictures.

 

[siggy]

It's basically works like a light switch, 1 in 1 out. need a drawing ?

 

[Mal11224]

A float switch like that needs to be connected to a breakout box. It is designed to stop the flow of water electronically. If you are going to hook a rodi system up to it, you may want to replace it with an auto shutoff float valve. Uses a switch to cut the water off to prevent flooding without electrical connectivity. BRS sells them.

 

[littlebangkok82]

Do you have a controller?

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

This float switch is basically an on/off switch. When the water level is low, the switch is "on" and electricity flows through it. When the water level is high, the switch closes and doesn't allow electricity through.

If you wanted to use this switch, you could use a solenoid, which is basically a valve controlled by electricity. When the water level is low, electricity would flow to the solenoid and open it. When the water level is high, the switch would close and no electricity would flow to the solenoid, causing it to close and shut off water.

Personally, I would replace this with a float valve that shuts off the water using a simple floating arm.

 

[rskarvan]

Do you have a controller?

I have the new Apex controller, soon to be set up.

 

[littlebangkok82]

You can buy or build a breakout box to attach that switch

 

[rskarvan]

This float switch is basically an on/off switch. When the water level is low, the switch is "on" and electricity flows through it. When the water level is high, the switch closes and doesn't allow electricity through.

If you wanted to use this switch, you could use a solenoid, which is basically a valve controlled by electricity. When the water level is low, electricity would flow to the solenoid and open it. When the water level is high, the switch would close and no electricity would flow to the solenoid, causing it to close and shut off water.

Personally, I would replace this with a float valve that shuts off the water using a simple floating arm.

For what reason would you do that? Simplicity, ease of installation, reliability?

 

[rskarvan]

It's basically works like a light switch, 1 in 1 out. need a drawing ?

If you're up for drawing one or have one, I'm interested!

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

For what reason would you do that? Simplicity, ease of installation, reliability?

It's more about simplicity. While the floating-type shutoff valves can fail, the system is less complex. The arm raises when the water gets too high and this simple action closes a valve.

In theory, a solenoid would work the same way, but there is more involved. For one, you need to supply DC power to the switch and then wire it to the solenoid. If the DC power supply dies, your valve won't open and new water won't get made. If the solenoid fails in the closed position, new water won't get made. If the solenoid malfunctions or sticks in the "on" position, which can happen with electrically-operated switches, the water will never shut off. The float valve is $15 shipped while the solenoid is $22, and that doesn't even include a DC power supply.

Even if reliability is the same, the floating shutoff valve is simpler and cheaper. Solenoids work fine and they have their place in more complex setups. My preference is just for "simple" when possible. Just my two cents.

 

[rskarvan]

It's more about simplicity. While the floating-type shutoff valves can fail, the system is less complex. The arm raises when the water gets too high and this simple action closes a valve.

In theory, a solenoid would work the same way, but there is more involved. For one, you need to supply DC power to the switch and then wire it to the solenoid. If the DC power supply dies, your valve won't open and new water won't get made. If the solenoid fails in the closed position, new water won't get made. If the solenoid malfunctions or sticks in the "on" position, which can happen with electrically-operated switches, the water will never shut off. The float valve is $15 shipped while the solenoid is $22, and that doesn't even include a DC power supply.

Even if reliability is the same, the floating shutoff valve is simpler and cheaper. Solenoids work fine and they have their place in more complex setups. My preference is just for "simple" when possible. Just my two cents.

Makes sense to me. Will likely switch what I have with the simple float valve. Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[Forsaken77]

This is the full kit from BRS. Don't just buy a float, you need the whole kit. It's only $25. BRS has a video on it how to wire it to the RODI and another guy shows how to attach it to the can.

And while people are correct in saying float switches can fail, that is mostly in saltwater. Your pure RODI water won't cause it to fail. I've been using it on a 43 gallon Brute can for a few years after forgetting to turn it off and cleaning up a flooded finished basement. There's a very good walkthrough video on Youtube on how to install it. I think the guys name is NY Steelo. But he shows every step of the process, what size drill bit to use, how far down the can to make the hole, ect... Just either use the same hole if you can or silicone that hole shut and drill another one. The kit I'm referring to uses a float and pressure box to work. It's foolproof and easy to setup. I wouldn't run an RO unit without it unless you eventually want a flood.

 

[HOOPDEEZ]

You could always run 2 float valves for redundancy, get the mechanical one for now then wire up the DC one and solenoid after your apex is dialed in. Peace of mind

 

[siggy]

 

[siggy]

You will have to check your switch to verify operation, if it open or closes on high level,
this dwg is guessing that it opens or opens the circuit stopping the flow of power to the solenoid and turning off the water.

Need a little help with placement of the solenoid, Before or after the RO/DI unit? I say before, to relieve constant pressure off the membrane and cartridges, but I'm new to this
type of application.