Fluval 32.5 Marine Flex crash course

[Muwahha]

I'm starting a bit late in the game as far as these normal threads seem to run. I have been slowly putting together my needs and or wants for this tank since the beginning of March. I have had lots of time and experience with aquariums but my first shooting for the Reef aquarium.The biggest reason for delving back into this is my now 13 year old daughter is showing alot of interest and thought this would be the best time to start again. First I'll list the equipment,

Fluval 32.5 marine flex AIO
Hygger mini wave maker
20lbs of CaribSea Dry Aragonite special grade reef sand
10-15lbs of CaribSea Fiji pink live sand
20lbs of old dry rock
10lbs of Caribsea Life Rock
RO/DI buddie
RedSea Marine test kit
FLuval 200w heater
Inkbird aquarium heater with probe thermostat

I have a couple questions that I'm having a heck of a time finding any answers to and I believe it's associated with the tank being relatively new. First off I'm not sure about the flow. I purchased the hygger under the guise of 10x the turnover of the volume of water. It was listed as 1600gph and with there being right around 29 gallons of water I thought it would be enough. Then I also went down the rabbit hole of finding a better return pump to help move water in some of the dead areas that they Hygger isn't pushing to. Second, when should I start running my lights? Mwater is now turning over the Dr. Tim's ammonia in 24 hours. I haven't been running them at all as of now to keep from having to start the battle with algae to early. Thanks for reading my wall of text and more for any help or suggestions.

 

[Muwahha]

If it’s pictures you require, fine....

 

[Purkey Pets]

I recently set up a Flex 32.5 as well, good choice . I have had African Cichlids for a while, and am also new to the reefkeeping game. Lots to read and learn!


The first thing I noticed about the Flex was a lot of bypass around the sponge filters. The stock setup would be just fine for bio filtration, but I wanted to add GFO and carbon so I needed layered/stages of flow through them. Purchased the inTank media baskets and couldn't be happier. You could get the same effect by making something similar for a lot less $$ though.

I also changed out the return pump with a Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 that fits really well (357gph), and added two Aqamai KPS (1050gph each). I was having a hard time with the curved glass generating a cyclone if the flow was directed at the front of the tank. Ended up with the return nozzles pointed left/right at the sides with the powerheads (in each back corner) shooting into the return flow just right to create a turbulence all over the tank.

My next step is to remove the top section of plastic divider on the filter media chamber, its preventing the water surface from flowing into the media basket. May also cut the plastic screen area if that doesn't work.

There are lots of opinions on how to cycle a tank. The most common saying/methodology is to take your time, nothing good happens fast in a reef tank!

My opinion: get a small fish and start feeding food! Dose bacteria additives to boost and keep Seachem Prime or similar for ammonia spikes, just in case.

 

[ISFNick]

I'm starting a bit late in the game as far as these normal threads seem to run. I have been slowly putting together my needs and or wants for this tank since the beginning of March. I have had lots of time and experience with aquariums but my first shooting for the Reef aquarium.The biggest reason for delving back into this is my now 13 year old daughter is showing alot of interest and thought this would be the best time to start again. First I'll list the equipment,

Fluval 32.5 marine flex AIO
Hygger mini wave maker
20lbs of CaribSea Dry Aragonite special grade reef sand
10-15lbs of CaribSea Fiji pink live sand
20lbs of old dry rock
10lbs of Caribsea Life Rock
RO/DI buddie
RedSea Marine test kit
FLuval 200w heater
Inkbird aquarium heater with probe thermostat

I have a couple questions that I'm having a heck of a time finding any answers to and I believe it's associated with the tank being relatively new. First off I'm not sure about the flow. I purchased the hygger under the guise of 10x the turnover of the volume of water. It was listed as 1600gph and with there being right around 29 gallons of water I thought it would be enough. Then I also went down the rabbit hole of finding a better return pump to help move water in some of the dead areas that they Hygger isn't pushing to. Second, when should I start running my lights? Mwater is now turning over the Dr. Tim's ammonia in 24 hours. I haven't been running them at all as of now to keep from having to start the battle with algae to early. Thanks for reading my wall of text and more for any help or suggestions.

Get the inTank Media Baskets! Best inventions ever!
Make sure your ammonia is around 2 parts per million for a cycle! If the tank is turning that and nitrite into zero really quickly, then definitely get your first fish and start regular feedings and water changes.
Don't turn on lights until you get coral as well.
Don't make the same mistake I did hahaha
Let me know if you have any more questions! The tank looks awesome!

 

[Muwahha]

I recently set up a Flex 32.5 as well, good choice . I have had African Cichlids for a while, and am also new to the reefkeeping game. Lots to read and learn!


The first thing I noticed about the Flex was a lot of bypass around the sponge filters. The stock setup would be just fine for bio filtration, but I wanted to add GFO and carbon so I needed layered/stages of flow through them. Purchased the inTank media baskets and couldn't be happier. You could get the same effect by making something similar for a lot less $$ though.

I also changed out the return pump with a Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 that fits really well (357gph), and added two Aqamai KPS (1050gph each). I was having a hard time with the curved glass generating a cyclone if the flow was directed at the front of the tank. Ended up with the return nozzles pointed left/right at the sides with the powerheads (in each back corner) shooting into the return flow just right to create a turbulence all over the tank.

My next step is to remove the top section of plastic divider on the filter media chamber, its preventing the water surface from flowing into the media basket. May also cut the plastic screen area if that doesn't work.

There are lots of opinions on how to cycle a tank. The most common saying/methodology is to take your time, nothing good happens fast in a reef tank!

My opinion: get a small fish and start feeding food! Dose bacteria additives to boost and keep Seachem Prime or similar for ammonia spikes, just in case.

I am definitely intrigued about your mod. I will have to get a couple of baskets to see what piece your cutting out. I was planning on one side being a mini fuge and having the other side for carbon and whatnot as needed. I will definitely look into the Sicce pump. One other question is that Aqamai 120v in the tank or D/C?

Get the inTank Media Baskets! Best inventions ever!
Make sure your ammonia is around 2 parts per million for a cycle! If the tank is turning that and nitrite into zero really quickly, then definitely get your first fish and start regular feedings and water changes.
Don't turn on lights until you get coral as well.
Don't make the same mistake I did hahaha
Let me know if you have any more questions! The tank looks awesome!

That’s pretty much what I thought as well, just wanted some confirmation as far as the lights go. I’m torn on going the fish first route or start with a small CUC and do a couple frags of coral. That way I get into the routine and consistency before adding the bio hogs which is the fish.

 

[Muwahha]

Cleaned the glass this morning after the big water change yesterday. I noticed what I perceived to be a thin layer of the silicone floating in the current. I don’t believe it’s part of the seam itself but almost a slime that has built up on it. Was wondering if it’s a new tank thing or something out of the ordinary.

 

[Purkey Pets]

Cleaned the glass this morning after the big water change yesterday. I noticed what I perceived to be a thin layer of the silicone floating in the current. I don’t believe it’s part of the seam itself but almost a slime that has built up on it. Was wondering if it’s a new tank thing or something out of the ordinary.

I had the same thing on the silicone, real slimy buildup. After cleaning a couple times a week, coralline started growing on the silicone before anywhere else.

For a refugium, the IM ChaetoMax light would fit perfectly but you'll have to clean the algae off glass every week, unless you can find a way to shine a light from above.

The Aqamai pumps are 12V DC, and are definitely worth the money! They're really small, I can fit two in my hand easily so they're not very noticeable in the tank. Programming is pretty awesome too being able to have a different setting every 30 minutes. Four times a day I have mine go 100% constant flow to stir up the tank a bit more than normal. The flow is gentle so I would take "1050gph" with a grain of salt on these.

I ended up cutting the tab on the sump divider thing and its working better! I'm still going to drill a few holes in the screen part to skim the surface water inside the tank better though. The way mine is flowing, the water surface is stuck on one of the horizontal bars and preventing the surface scum from getting to the sump chamber. Tried breaking surface with water flow but still had a bunch of scum, which is why I'm cutting/modifying things. Mantis shrimp making a mess of scum and nitrates lol

 

[Purkey Pets]

I am definitely intrigued about your mod. I will have to get a couple of baskets to see what piece your cutting out.

I finally got around to removing one of those bars on the inlet screen where the water surface was blocked. Working great and ZERO surface scum now!

Used a flathead screwdriver to insert in the gaps and push on the little piece I wanted to remove, bending up and down to make it flex and soften, came right out.

This is in combo with removing the top divider that's right behind this overflow section, with the inTank baskets which create a true overflow into the media chambers.

Hopefully this info helps other Fluval Flex 32.5 Saltwater owners in the future!

 

[Muwahha]

Perfect, I got my replacement return pump last week and will be ordering the new baskets here shortly. I now see why you had to do it. They way the ran their filtration almost doesn’t make any sense. Almost makes as much sense as having a filter in the inside of the stock return pump.

 

[marcwjj]

I had the same thing on the silicone, real slimy buildup. After cleaning a couple times a week, coralline started growing on the silicone before anywhere else.

For a refugium, the IM ChaetoMax light would fit perfectly but you'll have to clean the algae off glass every week, unless you can find a way to shine a light from above.

The Aqamai pumps are 12V DC, and are definitely worth the money! They're really small, I can fit two in my hand easily so they're not very noticeable in the tank. Programming is pretty awesome too being able to have a different setting every 30 minutes. Four times a day I have mine go 100% constant flow to stir up the tank a bit more than normal. The flow is gentle so I would take "1050gph" with a grain of salt on these.

I ended up cutting the tab on the sump divider thing and its working better! I'm still going to drill a few holes in the screen part to skim the surface water inside the tank better though. The way mine is flowing, the water surface is stuck on one of the horizontal bars and preventing the surface scum from getting to the sump chamber. Tried breaking surface with water flow but still had a bunch of scum, which is why I'm cutting/modifying things. Mantis shrimp making a mess of scum and nitrates lol

Hi, I'm also setting up my fluval flex 32 - 2 noob questions:
1/ where did you setup the refugium? is it the middle compartment? can I have chaeto there together with a nano skimmer and the filter pump inside?
2/ I'm just using the stock filter foam for now, what would be the recommended filter to put there? should I use the stock carbon / biomax, or add chemipure blue? GFA? or phosguard? purigen? (sorry I'm doing some readings and have seen these mentions so far)

 

[Purkey Pets]

Hi, I'm also setting up my fluval flex 32 - 2 noob questions:
1/ where did you setup the refugium? is it the middle compartment? can I have chaeto there together with a nano skimmer and the filter pump inside?
2/ I'm just using the stock filter foam for now, what would be the recommended filter to put there? should I use the stock carbon / biomax, or add chemipure blue? GFA? or phosguard? purigen? (sorry I'm doing some readings and have seen these mentions so far)

No worries on the noob questions, we all start without knowing. Best advice is to be curious, ask questions and also to Google as much as possible. Lots of opinions for different treatment styles.

I ended up going without chaeto after a while, was using egg crate to keep it suspended in the central chamber but could work in the side chambers

For replacing the stock foam inserts, I would highly recommend inTank media baskets:
inTank Media Basket

 

[marcwjj]

Ah, egg crate is a good idea, kpoj9 also suggested a DIY reactor which looks cool



Any recommendations on what filter materials I can put in with the stock foam filters? (the inTank media baskets are out of stocks for now)

 

[Lsuhunter]

They are back in stock today as of a hour ago, I just ordered 2 of them so you might want to hurry. I am still gathering supplies to finally set my tank up.

 

[marcwjj]

Hey, got another question, when cycling the tank, should I leave the filters in, or just have the live rocks, pump and heater running?

 

[Muwahha]

I just had pumps running with the heater. Some live sand and some Carib sea life rock. My cycle was complete in a month. The other thing I will say is if you plan on keeping lovely vibrant colored corals plan for a replacement light or at least a second light bar.
A single one will sustain life but even midway up I have some zoas that don’t have as much pop as when I first got them. I’m trying to keep this one simple and easy so I just ordered another light bar this week. Plus the place I bought the tank from gave me 20 bucks off a second light.

 

[dreamzflex32.5]

What’s up to all!! Got a question has anybody have a problem with the middle chamber water level just going low even when you top it off?

Upgrades:
Jebao 2500 pump
2 Jebao OW-10
Tunez 9001 skimmer
2 Orbit Marine LED “so using Fluval marine led”
LED grow light for chaeto
Ink-Bird Temperature Controller w/ Fluval heater
2 intank media basket

25 lbs of ApurpleReef black-out dry rock
40 lbs of ApurpleReef Orchid Coast live sand
20 lbs of Real Reef Branch Rock

Pics from July

Pics from now

 

[Muwahha]

After I cut the vents on the overflow going into my baskets, then upgraded the pump unnoticed it sits a bit lower than the rest. I just put my sensor for my ATO at that level.

 

[Muwahha]

On another note, don’t go looking for the secondary light bar for this tank. I ended up ordering the wrong one and didn’t realize what a pain it is to find. Ended up ordering the 24” -32” thinking that would suffice. The LED strip itself is about 4” shorter than the stock strip. Then read more and found out the 32” -48” is too long. The only place that currently sells it is Fluvals website. 10 bucks more than the 24”-32” minus the led transformer that they sell for 70 bucks. Pretty sure I’m going to be sending this one back and rethink a replacement light for my tank. Part number you are looking for is 14513, NOT 14515 or 14516. Kind of ticked honestly that they did this.

 

[HavocXT]

On another note, don’t go looking for the secondary light bar for this tank. I ended up ordering the wrong one and didn’t realize what a pain it is to find. Ended up ordering the 24” -32” thinking that would suffice. The LED strip itself is about 4” shorter than the stock strip. Then read more and found out the 32” -48” is too long. The only place that currently sells it is Fluvals website. 10 bucks more than the 24”-32” minus the led transformer that they sell for 70 bucks. Pretty sure I’m going to be sending this one back and rethink a replacement light for my tank. Part number you are looking for is 14513, NOT 14515 or 14516. Kind of ticked honestly that they did this.

For almost the same price, why not get the ai prime? Since you are running without the top cover. I replaced my fluval light with an air prime. You get go with 2 ai prime or 1 prime and 1 light bar.

 

[DarylRib]

Very nice !!!Here's my flex 15