Food sources with higher nitrates

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Reef of Fillory

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I think the only problem with increased feeding is that Phosphates will shoot up as well no?
In my particular case, I wouldn't mind more phosphates [why I created this thread - others I found via search had high phosphate levels as a consideration].

I think that @threebuoys is suggesting a switch in food to a higher protein source, not necessarily just by increasing feeding. I could be reading incorrectly though.
 

threebuoys

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I think the only problem with increased feeding is that Phosphates will shoot up as well no?
No doubt. The ratio will of course vary depending on the type of food
 

threebuoys

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In my particular case, I wouldn't mind more phosphates [why I created this thread - others I found via search had high phosphate levels as a consideration].

I think that @threebuoys is suggesting a switch in food to a higher protein source, not necessarily just by increasing feeding. I could be reading incorrectly though.
You're correct. You are already feeding some pellets and flakes, but shifting to higher protein food without increasing quantity will increase nitrogen. Depending on what you shift to, phosphates may stay the same or change +/-
 

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You're correct. You are already feeding some pellets and flakes, but shifting to higher protein food without increasing quantity will increase nitrogen. Depending on what you shift to, phosphates may stay the same or change +/-
man, maintaining a reef tank is just one big science experiment lol.
 
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Reef of Fillory

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Crashjack

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In your experience, this is reef safe? Don't know why it wouldn't be, but it specifies for freshwater use on the bottle.
Many have used with no problem, including me. If I remember correctly, someone on one of the large dinos threads even contacted Seachem and asked the same question. The answer was reef safe. I think the "Freshwater use" is because this is typically used in FW planted tanks. The issue in a reef tank would be large overdosing, where corals would likely be more sensitive than plants. Follow the instructions, and overdosing won't be an issue.
 

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Pull the chaeto..........you don't need an algae filter on a small tank.........it's overkill and directly competing with the corals. Dosing nitrate is just going to fuel the chaeto growth.

Adding phyto in theory is also going to reduce nitrates.

Or you can try running the skimmer half a day or not at all.

Focus on reducing your export system.

The fish load mainly create the nitrate per ammonia which the corals take up before it becomes nitrate. I do understand you don't have room to add more fish so your next best bet is to reduce your export setup.
 

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Pull the chaeto..........you don't need an algae filter on a small tank.........it's overkill and directly competing with the corals. Dosing nitrate is just going to fuel the chaeto growth.

Adding phyto in theory is also going to reduce nitrates.

Or you can try running the skimmer half a day or not at all.

Focus on reducing your export system.

The fish load mainly create the nitrate per ammonia which the corals take up before it becomes nitrate. I do understand you don't have room to add more fish so your next best bet is to reduce your export setup.
Imo.. This post and threebuoys post are the best advice you can follow for a stable system longterm. Esp. In combination. Just make sure and play around with each one separately so there is only one variable at a time. This way each one only has to get you halfway to your goal. when combined your desired levels will be continuously maintained without any extra steps just by having what you feed and what you export with match & create those desired levels. If you remove your cheato.. dont throw it out.. just move it to a tiny tank or bucket with the light andvthrowvsome food in ocasionally.. so if you need the cheato later it's s there to put back in right away.
 

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Pull the chaeto..........you don't need an algae filter on a small tank.........it's overkill and directly competing with the corals. Dosing nitrate is just going to fuel the chaeto growth.

Adding phyto in theory is also going to reduce nitrates.

Or you can try running the skimmer half a day or not at all.

Focus on reducing your export system.

The fish load mainly create the nitrate per ammonia which the corals take up before it becomes nitrate. I do understand you don't have room to add more fish so your next best bet is to reduce your export setup.
I never thought of this.. So if you have high nitrates and low phosphates it could be not that you are overfeeding or feeding food with the wrong balance... BUT rather that you are NOT feeding enough for the amount of fish you have as the fish are creating high nittates and the phosphates are low because of under feeding?
 

Jubei2006

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I've been harvesting it down to about a gold ball size each weekend. Another alternative I've thought to do [and will do tonight] is to decrease the chaeto photoperiod by 2 hours and see if that helps. What I'm hoping doesn't happen is that Phosphate gets a bit higher than I want it to be at.

One of my concerns with just "adding" nitrate [via dosing for example] is that it's just going to fuel a decrease in phosphate [via chaeto] as the Nitrate becomes available for more growth.
If you have been watching the BRS videos, you may remember the episode talking about refugiums. They are a great nitrogen/phosphate remover. And remember they are also TUNABLE. Reduce your photoperiod. Feed more. You can also reduce the period your protein skimmer is running to further reduce nitrate removal. These are two of the easy to tune by the end user.
 

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I never thought of this.. So if you have high nitrates and low phosphates it could be not that you are overfeeding or feeding food with the wrong balance... BUT rather that you are NOT feeding enough for the amount of fish you have as the fish are creating high nittates and the phosphates are low because of under feeding?

It's about throughput of nutrients..........the test results are what's left over. It's impossible to know how much a particular food will add to nitrate and phosphate levels. A good fish population that is fed well is always easier to deal with.

There are way too many variables to know why NO3 or P04 aren't in line. Each situation will be different depending on those variables so each case has to be taken separately and fixed based on what is going on in the tank.
 

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