For those higher nutrient tanks, how do you keep algae from growing?

[domination2580]

I know there are ways for higher nutrient tanks but they don't take on a lot of algae. As in like 12 alk tanks. What's the relationship between nitrate and phosphate?

 

[Potatohead]

From what I have seen, most higher nutrient tanks without much algae are almost always older tanks with a large coral load. Also, they usually have tons of tangs :D

 

[TexasReefer82]

My tank is a "low nutrient" tank, I suppose, in that nitrates and phosphates will both quickly go to zero if left to their own devices. This has more than once caused STN and minor bleaching for me in acropora and montipora. I daily dose both nutrients into my tank just to maintain measurable levels and prevent STN.

All that said... Algae still grows like crazy in my tank! Since it's only a 40g breeder tangs aren't a good option. I rely on a tailspot blenny, lots of trochus snails and the best herbivores on the reef: urchins.

I think the answer for algae control is the same for low nutrient tanks, high nutrient tanks, and on the real wild reefs: herbivores... And urchins are my favorite.

 

[fish farmer]

Chaeto in the sump and herbivores. I still have algae in the display, various forms, red macros and GHA, but not nearly as much as I used to. If I could house a tang it would be gone. My phos is 1pmm and nitrate 25ppm.

 

[biophilia]

The NO3/PO4 varies in my tank, but is generally probably on the high side (~20ppm+ NO3 last I checked. No idea about PO4, but is often in the 0.05-0.1ppm range when I bother to test). I deal with algae by preferentially growing diatoms (via silica dosing) which seem to out-compete other more annoying species and are quickly consumed by my trochus snails and 30 gazillion copepods. I also have a bunch of hermits that rapidly consume bryopsis on any surface they can reach. More than anything, though, I've found that algae becomes less of an issue as available surface area is covered by coral growth.

In many wild reefs 100% of the algae that grows each day is consumed by herbivores in only 8-12 hours. This leads me to believe that algae growth is not only normal, but can even be an indication of a healthy ecosystem with adequate nutrient imputs. They key to this style of reefing is lots of herbivores!

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I know there are ways for higher nutrient tanks but they don't take on a lot of algae. As in like 12 alk tanks. What's the relationship between nitrate and phosphate?

I don't know, what do know. I make a home recipe of (figure of speech) 21 herbs & spices, alot of nutrients. I dose 45mL every 20 minutes. 24/7. Into 24 gallon DT. Nothing, as to unwanted algae/diatoms, etc....

I use Hiatt filtration products. And even with this feeding regimen my ORP is 325-350 WITHOUT skimmer.
I'm happy:)

 

[NS Mike D]

From what I have seen, most higher nutrient tanks without much algae are almost always older tanks with a large coral load. Also, they usually have tons of tangs :D

^ This. mature tanks have lots of herbavoires and corals that compete for space and nutrients. New tanks have lots of empty space for algae to fill in.

there really isn't a true and hard relationship between nitrates and phosphates other that the lack of one or both can cause problems and as can too much of both relative to your coral demand. No nitrates and some phosphates is like an invitation for cyano since cyano can get the N for other sources that corals cannot. Anecdotally, we are seeing successful tanks where PO4 is kept in check (under 0.1 ppm) and little to no attention paid to lowering NO3 (World Wide corals doesn't bother with NO3 so long as it's under 20)

There does appear to be a correlation with ALK. I see a trend, those with successful high nutrient tanks appear to keep their ALk high whereas ULN tanks like ALk as low as 7.

We also see folks now dosing NO3 and PO4 (it's still the foundation for photosynthesis ) and taking skimmers off line for part of the day because they have become too efficient at lowering nutrients.


I just saw a BRS video how new reefers should be focused on low NO3 & PO4 since newer tanks lack the bioload to handle more than trace amounts of NO3 and PO4.

In conversation about nutrients, I think it should include that corals need other stuff like proteins, fats, etc that we can all too easily scrub out of the tank chasing low NO3 and PO4. Again, with WWC they broadcast feed the corals every hour on the hour (part of why they run bare bottom tanks). Interesting.