Found these old lights for $20... Anyone know the specific model?

[Komedron]

Found these lights used. It seems like a dsuny but I cant find the exact model. They're 11" long. Just wondering if anyone has experience with them as i'm having trouble finding good settings. The biggest problem seems to be that the blue channel also uses the red leds, so they're not adjustable individually.

 

[oreo54]

Found these lights used. It seems like a dsuny but I cant find the exact model. They're 11" long. Just wondering if anyone has experience with them as i'm having trouble finding good settings. The biggest problem seems to be that the blue channel also uses the red leds, so they're not adjustable individually.

DsunY now called popbloom.
Models sort of difficult to determine.
They shift spectrums quite often
Turing is the controller.
The models with fans were pushed harder.

Looks like a newer version since it doesn't have the odd white at the end.

Actually I guess these are " Popbloom" lights.

 

[Komedron]

DsunY now called popbloom.
Models sort of difficult to determine.
They shift spectrums quite often
Turing is the controller.
The models with fans were pushed harder.

Looks like a newer version since it doesn't have the odd white at the end.

Actually I guess these are " Popbloom" lights.

Thanks for the reply! What do you think about the red leds? Since they can only be controlled with the blues it only comes out very purple. How does it affect coral growth?

 

[oreo54]

Thanks for the reply! What do you think about the red leds? Since they can only be controlled with the blues it only comes out very purple. How does it affect coral growth?

I'm not going to comment on that. I don't believe it will hurt at that low of a percentage.

I do think it is an odd spectrum layout.
possibly custom but ?
This is one of the older ones.

 

[oreo54]

Does it have 4 channels?
I don't remember any versions without some green leds.
Btw it may be fairly easy to modify it.
https://humble.fish/community/threads/modding-shannon-s50-popbloom-led-lights.19421/

 

[Komedron]

Does it have 4 channels?
I don't remember any versions without some green leds.
Btw it may be fairly easy to modify it.
https://humble.fish/community/threads/modding-shannon-s50-popbloom-led-lights.19421/

Yeah it does. The first and fourth are white (the fourth one has a single blue). The second is just the very dim violet ones, called moonlight. The third is the one that’s red and blue.

Thanks for the link, might try to mod it.

Appreciate your help

 

[oreo54]

Yeah it does. The first and fourth are white (the fourth one has a single blue). The second is just the very dim violet ones, called moonlight. The third is the one that’s red and blue.

Thanks for the link, might try to mod it.

Appreciate your help

Seems later lights mixed "bridgelux egg" leds (easy to replace) and smd leds (not so easy to replace)

There are ways to "fix" this without too much difficulty.." I believe"
1) just remove the reds altogether and jumper the 2 pads. Each will subtract about 2.0 -2.6 volts from the string.
Losing like 7-8v
2) substitute the reds with normal diodes recovering about .8V each.Losing only 4.6V
NOTE : UNTESTED AND AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Channel current is unlikely to be more than 700mA. Matter of fact that could be the driver max.

THIS is a guess but I would suggest keeping the opposite in mind.. adding blues to the reds will increase the strings v(f) by around 3v.
Add 2 blues and jumper 1 removed red should keep you in "spec".

The sort of catch is they use linear led driver ic's. so if the voltage difference between input and output gets too big they could over heat. There is built in overheat protection in the chip (well ones I saw ).

I do not believe there is a lower limit but in the "old days" (dsuny custom) there was a lower limit which meant there were only soo many reds ( 2.0v-ish) one could put on a channel. Blues/whites ect were 3 v or greater.

Rough estimate is that there should be a limit of 12 leds per channel (ignoring the odd moonlight )
The driver can only output approx 35v w/ a 36v power supply.

How ch3 has 15 is ? It could be split in 2 internally. Or they used a different driver than the "usual".

When you are in there look for the driver ic's
This is their commonly used one:

The AMC7140 is a high voltage, low drop-out current regulator for maximum output current up to 700mA

Note: My earlier photo was the Dsuny but the bottom part was mine. I noticed I erred in ch4 there are only 7 whites not 8. The spectrum I generated used 8000k generic leds for its creation.

Oh one more thing.. Any violets/UV are likely to be close to exhaustion. Since they are normally not very visible anyway it is hard to tell without expensive equipment. But do look for browning as well.
If you decide on surgery consider replacing those. There can be voltage mis-matches here too. Like violets @4v but royal blues at like 3.

 

[Komedron]

Seems later lights mixed "bridgelux egg" leds (easy to replace) and smd leds (not so easy to replace)

There are ways to "fix" this without too much difficulty.." I believe"
1) just remove the reds altogether and jumper the 2 pads. Each will subtract about 2.0 -2.6 volts from the string.
Losing like 7-8v
2) substitute the reds with normal diodes recovering about .8V each.Losing only 4.6V
NOTE : UNTESTED AND AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Channel current is unlikely to be more than 700mA. Matter of fact that could be the driver max.

THIS is a guess but I would suggest keeping the opposite in mind.. adding blues to the reds will increase the strings v(f) by around 3v.
Add 2 blues and jumper 1 removed red should keep you in "spec".

The sort of catch is they use linear led driver ic's. so if the voltage difference between input and output gets too big they could over heat. There is built in overheat protection in the chip (well ones I saw ).

I do not believe there is a lower limit but in the "old days" (dsuny custom) there was a lower limit which meant there were only soo many reds ( 2.0v-ish) one could put on a channel. Blues/whites ect were 3 v or greater.

Rough estimate is that there should be a limit of 12 leds per channel (ignoring the odd moonlight )
The driver can only output approx 35v w/ a 36v power supply.

How ch3 has 15 is ? It could be split in 2 internally. Or they used a different driver than the "usual".

When you are in there look for the driver ic's
This is their commonly used one:


Note: My earlier photo was the Dsuny but the bottom part was mine. I noticed I erred in ch4 there are only 7 whites not 8. The spectrum I generated used 8000k generic leds for its creation.

Oh one more thing.. Any violets/UV are likely to be close to exhaustion. Since they are normally not very visible anyway it is hard to tell without expensive equipment. But do look for browning as well.
If you decide on surgery consider replacing those. There can be voltage mis-matches here too. Like violets @4v but royal blues at like 3.

Here are some pictures. I’m completely ignorant on electronics but it doesn’t seem too complicated. From what i understand i think I’ll try replacing two reds with blue and jumping one red.

Which ones are the drivers?

 

[strich]

DsunY now called popbloom.
Models sort of difficult to determine.
They shift spectrums quite often
Turing is the controller.
The models with fans were pushed harder.

Looks like a newer version since it doesn't have the odd white at the end.

Actually I guess these are " Popbloom" lights.

I have a couple of shannons I got 2nd hand. I've been planning to and even bought all the gear to chop the controller off and wire up a ESP32 to control it by Home Assistant. However I've really struggled to get the multimeter to map out the 8 wires into the colors, earth, power etc. I don't suppose you're aware of any articles or resources to help me with this?

 

[oreo54]

I have a couple of shannons I got 2nd hand. I've been planning to and even bought all the gear to chop the controller off and wire up a ESP32 to control it by Home Assistant. However I've really struggled to get the multimeter to map out the 8 wires into the colors, earth, power etc. I don't suppose you're aware of any articles or resources to help me with this?

Unfortunately no.
Maybe find the driver ic's and go from there.
They may have internal mosfets or external.

 

[oreo54]

Here are some pictures. I’m completely ignorant on electronics but it doesn’t seem too complicated. From what i understand i think I’ll try replacing two reds with blue and jumping one red.

Which ones are the drivers?

I'm beginning to wonder if that isn't some sort of clone. Yea all bridgelux eggs
Generally pretty easy to modify.
Biggest hurdle us the center slug and if it is soldered or just thermal compound/ glue.
Once you de solder the legs the old school way was to twist them off. This is rather destructive to the left though :)

The more technical way would be to measure the voltage on that channel while at 100%.

Driver should be the black squares with 5 legs on one side. There are too many though. Get the numbers off them.
There are 5 with a white square on them. Don't know what the others are.


Ch3 is split unto 2 rows . 3.1.1...4
3.2.1 ...11.
Odd. So you have 3 strings of 11 LEDs in series
One of 4. Then the moonlight string of 3 .

Same odd thing on the right side wire harness attached to the board. I'd have thought 5 wires plus ground. Looks like 6. possibly the 2 are for the fans?

for fun.. Set resistor values and current

This was the "original" t30 model as noted completely different spectrum. The Turing controller was also labelled popbloom.
Edit: Older popblooms had that pattern on the controller..

.

 

[Josh Will]

Their small light with a fan models have undergone several generations of upgrades.
The silver light is the oldest model and does not feature green LEDs. The three LEDs that do not light up are 395nm, 410nm and 395nm respectively.

The T30 model (black) mentioned by oreo54 features the final LED layout before production ceased; it includes red and green LEDs, full-spectrum light.

You can replace the red leds in channel 3 with blue. As in the full-spectrum version, the channel 3 is entirely blue, designed to promote coral growth.