Fritzzyme Turbostart 900.....

[Hugo_Fish]

So I bought this stuff off Amazon and used the whole bottle of Turbostart 900 and a few drops of fishless fuel... It's been 3 days and my ammonia has spiked (Over 2ppm -.- I believe I used too much of the Fishless Fuel..) and I have no trace of a NO2 or NO3. I heard that turbostart needs to be refrigerated... I am concerned that I messed up... I understand it's just been 3 days but I feel I would see some traces of NO2. I am paranoid and need to know if should I be worried. I'm going to give it a week before I make a decision. If I do have to do something, how should I go about fixing this? large water change or just go to my LFS and see if they carry the stuff properly?

 

[brandon429]

All you need to do is add a ground up pinch of fish food into the tank and wait ten days then it’s done and no testing is needed, this is a testless cycle conversion trick your lfs knows nothing about.

you’d do a large water change at the end so there’s no so much algae fuel in the water when you begin, and also your tests aren’t reliable because they’re not a seneye and I’m assuming not a digital hanna ammonia meter either, you may already be done. We just had your type of test the other day in a thread telling the reefer an 18 month running tank wasn’t cycled, at 2 ppm consistent.

change to a testless cycle format, read the fish disease forum rules on adding fish before you do, so you won’t instantly infect your tanks by skipping them. The cycle part is easy, we just made an exact ready date (11-28) the hard part is applying what’s in the disease forum vs skipping it, thinking it won’t apply to you.
cease all testing, do the fish food, change water on 28th, no more testing, apply fallow and quarantine to all added stock and you’re fixed.

what your lfs would have done is polar opposite of all that, they’d be ripping you off using old cycling science rules. Nothing is wrong with your bacteria. The fish food trick handles any worst case scenario.

 

[brandon429]

As soon as replies build here I wouldn’t even expect forum peers to not believe your test kits, they’ll believe 100% the cycle is stalled even in spite of an eighteen month fully stocked reef showing a broken cycle on the same type of kits. We pick and choose when to believe test kits using no form of logic, we do not learn lessons from the misread threads and we are taught to overlook them and just tell the next person their cycle is broken until they buy three more bottles of bacteria. The common advice will always be totally opposite of how my cycling threads are ran…we are up to page forty below fixing cycles just like yours:

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

non digital ammonia test kit readings (api, Red Sea, nyos, seachem badges) make you think you aren’t cycled when indeed you are if you owned a $200 expensive seneye meter, you’d never be doubting your cycle status. since .01% of the reefing population owns these, we need a way to help the...

www.reef2reef.com

every single job is a testless ten day wait cycle fix. Testless= they still post readings, they’re trained to by other methods, but their readings weren’t factored in the assigned start dates at all. Readings were ignored, # of days with water was the count.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Maybe I should have used the search bar and you assumed correctly, I am using Red Sea test kit. in the past(2015 -2017 was the last time I was in the hobby.) I used live sand as well as Live rock so the bacteria was always there.. this time around I am using dry sand and dry rock. So if I am interrupting what you have written correctly I should forget about testing and add ground-up fish food on top of the fishless fuel that I have already added wait 10 days then test, water change, and add some fish correct?

 

[Hugo_Fish]

As soon as replies build here I wouldn’t even expect forum peers to not believe your test kits, they’ll believe 100% the cycle is stalled even in spite of an eighteen month fully stocked reef showing a broken cycle on the same type of kits. We pick and choose when to believe test kits using no form of logic, we do not learn lessons from the misread threads and we are taught to overlook them and just tell the next person their cycle is broken until they buy three more bottles of bacteria. The common advice will always be totally opposite of how my cycling threads are ran…we are up to page forty below fixing cycles just like yours:

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

non digital ammonia test kit readings (api, Red Sea, nyos, seachem badges) make you think you aren’t cycled when indeed you are if you owned a $200 expensive seneye meter, you’d never be doubting your cycle status. since .01% of the reefing population owns these, we need a way to help the...

www.reef2reef.com

every single job is a testless ten day wait cycle fix. Testless= they still post readings, they’re trained to by other methods, but their readings weren’t factored in the assigned start dates at all. Readings were ignored, # of days with water was the count.

Just saw your edit. I will read the link you have shared.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

@brandon429 from what we am reading, these tanks have cured and uncured live rock and live sand. ? Is there anything about dry rock and dry sand and how that works? Currently going to bed have work tonight will read more better once I get to work.

 

[brandon429]

that must be a misunderstanding, if 300 jobs are in the thread 290 are totally dry rock starts like yours. those first few pages are examples I linked, so readers can distinguish between live or live + dry rock mixes

the actual submitted jobs are 99% common dry rock starts with a seemingly stuck cycle that really wasn't stuck. the steps above for the fish food / ten days/ water change will match your results to theirs

 

[brandon429]

the mechanism at work is this: all cycling charts show a ten day ammonia compliance for a reason

your bottle bac wasn't dead, its not easy to kill water bacteria shipped in water even with some minor insults. lab techs only wish failing to refrigerate a bacterial sample would make it sterile...what we're told in reefing is opposite of common microbiology rules because there's a market at stake that depends upon buyers who don't trust their cycle status

no matter the condition of your tank now, that carbon and phosphate from the ffood catches everything up in ten days, and you're doing the water change to export variables that may be unstated in the thread...ie gross ammonia overages or six additions of Prime water additive we don't want in the tank etc. people don't always state all the things they've done to start the tank, we accounted for those variables in the calculated wait time and so did cycle chart writers.


nobody who owns a calibrated digital nh3 test kit is going to fail to be cycled by day ten in your combination, its so reliable we don't need you to own the kits to prove it, you only have to copy the surface area constants we find among all reef tanks (some rocks stacked in the middle of the display)

the water change removes all the wastewater loaded up with X and starts the tank clean for the lighting+ bioload which brings in the algae uglies eventually, but the bioslicks for filtration never failed to set up in the ten day window from any common fed + bottle bac boosted cycle, even with a few unideal variables in place. it does no good to try and prove readiness with test kits when 100% of the reading cycle studiers have been misinformed that ammonia should be zero in a cycled, running tank-it's not. there will always be some trace ammonia undergoing conversion in an active system and that small leftover trips up the cheap kits people use + they're using a rule set that tells them a zero should be in place when indeed it shouldn't be. testing of cycles is a distraction that leads away from disease prep by hyperfocus on something that handles itself in ten days no problem, so we built a thread around that mode to see how it works.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Sweet thanks !!! it makes since.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

@brandon429 I am confused, on top of the fishless fuel I added, should I add the fish food also or just leave it be for right now and wait for the water change.

 

[brandon429]

Just do the ground up food only, leaving the current mix in the tank. No more fuel needed beyond the new addition of fish food. Wait the # of days do a water change/all set

 

[Hugo_Fish]

I actually do not have any food yet.. will buy some. Thanks !