FROGSPAWN HELP

[afrokobe]

your nitrates look really high, if they are truly at 100. I would do some water changes to bring that down, but the only problem is you are using well water. Your well water might have nitrates from source, which would just cause more issues in the future...

I would suggest either getting a water test for your well water, so you know what is 100% in your water, buy a RODI kit, or buy water from somewhere else. Grocery store RO water works in a pinch, but I would still get it from a lfs.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Yea, I know ro/di units are expensive

Yes all the good stuff seems to be. But starting off with clean water, a good light and flow are fundamentally critical to your tank’s success

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Dry and dosed w live bacteria

Oh okay so you may need more bio diversity build up before moving on to coral. The rock does a lot of the filtering.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

This morning every thing was fine tho

But if they are slowly getting worst…. Then the coral can no longer tolerate the conditions

 

[ethanlovesfish]

Oh okay so you may need more bio diversity build up before moving on to coral. The rock does a lot of the filtering.

How do I do this

 

[NowGlazeIT]

How do I do this

I know of three ways.
1- buy live rock online from Florida vendors
2- ask another reefer for a few pounds to seed your tank
3- add extra fish and wait a very long time.

 

[ethanlovesfish]

I know of three ways.

1- buy live rock online from Florida vendors
2- ask another reefer for a few pounds to seed your tank
3- add extra fish and wait a very long time.

Ok, Can you type a list of what needs to be done to save the tank

 

[ethanlovesfish]

I know of three ways.
1- buy live rock online from Florida vendors
2- ask another reefer for a few pounds to seed your tank
3- add extra fish and wait a very long time.

To be honest, the other corals are doing fine, so I don’t know What’s happening, and all zincs and magneisiums in the water are normal

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I know of three ways.

Ok, Can you type a list of what needs to be done to save the tank

Well I’m not sure how your tank is set up. But I’ll give you a quick rundown of stuff to look out for.

Starting with dry rock is the hard way or the long way but it gives you a chance to start pest free.
Pest come from coral, rock or substrate.
To set up a reef you need good water, good flow, good filtration and a good light.
Before we get into coral we need to go over the basics. Your tank needs time to mature and stabilize. You can do this by maintaining good husbandry.
REEF HUSBANDRY
1- test first then supplement
2- filtering your sand bed, cleaning your glass and changing the water every 1-2 weeks is good husbandry
3- have a plan in place to replace evaporation in the tank
4- keeping your pumps clean will maintain your flow
Many more I’m sure but these are what come to mind first.
Before adding coral you want to see coralline algae growing in your tank. You want to monitor your parameters to make sure they are stable and not fluctuating too much, and by “too much” it really depends on the element your testing each have their own ranges.
Ideal numbers in my tank look like this
Alk 8.5. Salinity 1.25or1.26
Cal 440. Po4 .05-.09
Mag 1350. Nitrate 5-15ppm

Now I know my po4 is stabilized because it only swings .02 each day sometimes it doesn’t move at all
My nitrate is stable because it almost never changes unless I add something like a few fish
My alk will swing about .5 daily
Salinity should be rock solid everyday
Mag will change very slowly. I mention this because CORAL ARE SENSITIVE TO CHANGES.

I rarely test now but when I start a new tank I test some parameters daily some weekly some not at all unless I’ve added coral.

BRS has a YouTube channel where they go over a brand new tank set up week by week. 52 weeks of reefing it’s called. Go down that rabbit hole for a few hours and come back to us with questions not being answered there.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

To be honest, the other corals are doing fine, so I don’t know What’s happening, and all zincs and magneisiums in the water are normal

That’s good to hear. In my experience it’s always a few coral at a time that show signs my tank is headed south.

 

[ethanlovesfish]

Well I’m not sure how your tank is set up. But I’ll give you a quick rundown of stuff to look out for.

Starting with dry rock is the hard way or the long way but it gives you a chance to start pest free.
Pest come from coral, rock or substrate.
To set up a reef you need good water, good flow, good filtration and a good light.
Before we get into coral we need to go over the basics. Your tank needs time to mature and stabilize. You can do this by maintaining good husbandry.
REEF HUSBANDRY
1- test first then supplement
2- filtering your sand bed, cleaning your glass and changing the water every 1-2 weeks is good husbandry
3- have a plan in place to replace evaporation in the tank
4- keeping your pumps clean will maintain your flow
Many more I’m sure but these are what come to mind first.
Before adding coral you want to see coralline algae growing in your tank. You want to monitor your parameters to make sure they are stable and not fluctuating too much, and by “too much” it really depends on the element your testing each have their own ranges.
Ideal numbers in my tank look like this
Alk 8.5. Salinity 1.25or1.26
Cal 440. Po4 .05-.09
Mag 1350. Nitrate 5-15ppm

Now I know my po4 is stabilized because it only swings .02 each day sometimes it doesn’t move at all
My nitrate is stable because it almost never changes unless I add something like a few fish
My alk will swing about .5 daily
Salinity should be rock solid everyday
Mag will change very slowly. I mention this because CORAL ARE SENSITIVE TO CHANGES.

I rarely test now but when I start a new tank I test some parameters daily some weekly some not at all unless I’ve added coral.

BRS has a YouTube channel where they go over a brand new tank set up week by week. 52 weeks of reefing it’s called. Go down that rabbit hole for a few hours and come back to us with questions not being answered there.

Ok, Hie do I save my coral

 

[MERKEY]

Ok, Hie do I save my coral

Excellent advice from @NowGlazeIT

Unfortunately with you still using well water none of the great advice will matter.

How do I know?

Because I'm on a well and was in your position many years ago.

As suggested above, find a local fish store and start buying rodi water from them if you can not afford a rodi unit. Ask your parents/parent or gaurdian/guardians to buy you one as you work it off.

 

[ethanlovesfish]

So do I need to get Rodi water from LFS

 

[NowGlazeIT]

So do I need to get Rodi water from LFS

That is one thing that will improve the water quality in your reef. You can buy distilled from the grocery store if need be. I would test the tds either way before mixing in salt

 

[ethanlovesfish]

That is one thing that will improve the water quality in your reef. You can buy distilled from the grocery store if need be. I would test the tds either way before mixing in salt

Ok so distilled water and water change when I get home, got it

 

[MERKEY]

Ok so distilled water and water change when I get home, got it

You will probably find rodi from a local fish store to be about the same price.

They also sell already mixed saltwater for your water changes so you don't have to spend the money on the salt.

Unless there is no fish store locally.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Not a good first coral choice as your tank is still going through changes and even spikes. Your numbers seem odd referring to:
Ammonia: 0 For a newer tank seems unlikely
Nitrite: 0 - Dont worry about this value
Nitrate :100 - Extremely high and with zero ammonia- something is off
Alk: 90 - Extremely low and likely so is calcium which is VERY important for hammer and other Euphyllia

Calcium cannot be lower than 380 for this coral. Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

 

[ethanlovesfish]

Not a good first coral choice as your tank is still going through changes and even spikes. Your numbers seem odd referring to:
Ammonia: 0 For a newer tank seems unlikely
Nitrite: 0 - Dont worry about this value
Nitrate :100 - Extremely high and with zero ammonia- something is off
Alk: 90 - Extremely low and likely so is calcium which is VERY important for hammer and other Euphyllia

Calcium cannot be lower than 380 for this coral. Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

Just got home from a restaurant, and the frogspawn is like brand new, color can be spotted from a mile away and the polyps are clowning great, don’t know what happend, I did have the flow on full blast on it and the light was in full power for 3 days straight

 

[vetteguy53081]

Just got home from a restaurant, and the frogspawn is like brand new, color can be spotted from a mile away and the polyps are clowning great, don’t know what happend, I did have the flow on full blast on it and the light was in full power for 3 days straight

Possible spike.

 

[ethanlovesfish]

Possible spike.

I think so