its not the only way, I have about 200 pages of other ways showing fixes done manually. those are disease import risks above, by skipping fallow
no guarantee they work, but its possible. that's taking chances vs just simply causing the no gha condition in a few hours work today. all done surgically
if that was my tank I'd be doing the *drain down* cleaning he's doing, not necessarily evacuating the whole tank. evacuate what you can for on-counter surgery outside the tank like you said FF
my own vase is as packed as that (but on a much smaller scale of course and he has way better corals lol) and I didn't pull all my rocks when I used to guide hair algae, I would insert a long pointy knife, scrape and precision debride gha areas that were anchored into the edges of live rock dislodging the algae and the holdfast too
I would then put a drop of 35% peroxide on the former algae spot, that I rasped and left no algae
that burned down hidden anchor cells
I did this until every area was either coralline or sps/lps flesh and now algae physically has no where to grow except glass, my work stopped. it's max stocked, all used real estate. I left algae no attachment zones in the end, coralline and coral mouths exclude algae. This tank is dang close above to fill max, one of the best reefs I've seen for that tank!
you're 90% there on total coral mouthness algae exclusion lol keep detail gardening, don't change any aspect of your animals and especially your params or you invite variation
your tank is a mouth getting cavities, do what a dentist would do.
manual surgery invites total command over the areas you're working.
that drain down pic above is perfect. work things in the air you dont have to remove it all this way. dont alter algae through the water, do it in the air to control distribution of removed items.
ID of an organism does not matter in invasion control in a medium sized tank, it is only hesitation.
if you pre remove a lot of that gha before you work the final spots that must remain in the tank, you wont cast around as much
what you do cast around do some water changes to export the bits etc
*when you do drain work, like that's a big mouth wide open and you're a dentist working on a cavity, be detailed and flushing of it all and I use 35% peroxide which is highly dangerous, do not store it around children.
I do it because I wasn't playing around with my tank ten years ago, letting a plant win was not an option. taking any chance that something I installed wouldn't work, was not an option.
the 35% peroxide isn't applied to spots via the water, its in a drained tank, the work spots are emersed and already rasped clean and evacuated of algae, just like a dentist uses a drill to prepare the cary for injection of filler. your filler will be coralline eventually or a mouth you plant there just after preparation, like a favia frag for example.
you get 35% from a health food store in the refrigerator section, it's more dangerous than handling battery acid in my opinion be warned. no children around at all, dump it out when done.
use 3% baby water if no 35% available, it's better than nothing as a post-rasp treatment
bulk remove via pinchers what you can before hand
detail remove during a draining the detail patches
no guarantee they work, but its possible. that's taking chances vs just simply causing the no gha condition in a few hours work today. all done surgically
if that was my tank I'd be doing the *drain down* cleaning he's doing, not necessarily evacuating the whole tank. evacuate what you can for on-counter surgery outside the tank like you said FF
my own vase is as packed as that (but on a much smaller scale of course and he has way better corals lol) and I didn't pull all my rocks when I used to guide hair algae, I would insert a long pointy knife, scrape and precision debride gha areas that were anchored into the edges of live rock dislodging the algae and the holdfast too
I would then put a drop of 35% peroxide on the former algae spot, that I rasped and left no algae
that burned down hidden anchor cells
I did this until every area was either coralline or sps/lps flesh and now algae physically has no where to grow except glass, my work stopped. it's max stocked, all used real estate. I left algae no attachment zones in the end, coralline and coral mouths exclude algae. This tank is dang close above to fill max, one of the best reefs I've seen for that tank!
you're 90% there on total coral mouthness algae exclusion lol keep detail gardening, don't change any aspect of your animals and especially your params or you invite variation
your tank is a mouth getting cavities, do what a dentist would do.
manual surgery invites total command over the areas you're working.
that drain down pic above is perfect. work things in the air you dont have to remove it all this way. dont alter algae through the water, do it in the air to control distribution of removed items.
ID of an organism does not matter in invasion control in a medium sized tank, it is only hesitation.
if you pre remove a lot of that gha before you work the final spots that must remain in the tank, you wont cast around as much
what you do cast around do some water changes to export the bits etc
*when you do drain work, like that's a big mouth wide open and you're a dentist working on a cavity, be detailed and flushing of it all and I use 35% peroxide which is highly dangerous, do not store it around children.
I do it because I wasn't playing around with my tank ten years ago, letting a plant win was not an option. taking any chance that something I installed wouldn't work, was not an option.
the 35% peroxide isn't applied to spots via the water, its in a drained tank, the work spots are emersed and already rasped clean and evacuated of algae, just like a dentist uses a drill to prepare the cary for injection of filler. your filler will be coralline eventually or a mouth you plant there just after preparation, like a favia frag for example.
you get 35% from a health food store in the refrigerator section, it's more dangerous than handling battery acid in my opinion be warned. no children around at all, dump it out when done.
use 3% baby water if no 35% available, it's better than nothing as a post-rasp treatment
bulk remove via pinchers what you can before hand
detail remove during a draining the detail patches
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