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I’ve learned that this is waaaaaay easier than people make it out to be.
You wish!Famous last words!
Lol that’s a good oneTo never take advice without asking to see what their tank looks like first.
Yup I have a 55 ga. Drum cycling SW, an auto water changer and a hose bib attached to my hard plumbing just in case I need a large emergency water change one day but I don’t don’t do water changes. And I’m not all unnecessarily ULM. No apex/Neptune. I just do auto top off and do everything else by hand. The key is in the tank designs. In part the display tank has to be the tip of the iceberg. The sump should be at least close to half the water volume if u want ultimate stability. I learned that from these forums before I ever bought a single piece of equipment and my parameters are always so balanced it’ll tick some of y’all off lolEven if you don’t plan on doing water changes, having the ability to do a 50% water change is a wonderful safety net for your investment when things go bad. For a large tank this can take quite a bit of planning and space to accomplish
Maaaaaaan I wish I seen this months ago. My Wife knows ALL the prices lol and I bet if I wasn’t super successful at all this then she’d be highly upset cuz I’ve spent at least 4K so far(half new half used equipment plus livestock)Not telling my wife house much any of this stuff costs. Happy wife, happy life.
That advice right there should be on every thread.To never take advice without asking to see what their tank looks like first.
For me I struggled with the NO3/PO4 balance
Phosphates have no place or purpose in a tank, so those need to be as close to zero as possible
Nitrates on the other hand seem to make my zoas/palys happy if I can stabilize NO3 at 5-10ppm.
But how do you get PO4 to zero and have NO3 at around 10ppm? Traditional export methods seem to reduce/eliminate both at the same time.
I'm now a user of Lanthanum Chloride to remove PO4 only.
It works really well