Got the Dangest things going on

[ZoWhat]

You mean Saint Mrs. @zoa what?

She hates me just as much as you guys do

 

[ZoWhat]

@PeterC99

You owe me a link to the h202 you buy on Amazon

BTW... ive been buying potassium nitrate in bulk, now h202. I fully expect to be on the FBI NSA Watchlist thruout 2022

 

[vetteguy53081]

Iodid and moderate light and water flow is my tool. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright.. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae (I dare you to try and say that three times quickly) and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthele.
Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for water temperature about 78 F, salinity somewhere around 1.025 specific gravity) and normal hardness 8-11 dKH) and a pH around 8.1-8.3.
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. In my experience, zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems.

 

[coralfishreef]

Have you tried spot feeding? Zoas thrive with spot feeding in my experience. Not so much with broadcast feeding.

 

[PeterC99]

@PeterC99

You owe me a link to the h202 you buy on Amazon

BTW... ive been buying potassium nitrate in bulk, now h202. I fully expect to be on the FBI NSA Watchlist thruout 2022

 

[ZoWhat]

Iodid and moderate light and water flow is my tool. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright.. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae (I dare you to try and say that three times quickly) and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthele.
Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for water temperature about 78 F, salinity somewhere around 1.025 specific gravity) and normal hardness 8-11 dKH) and a pH around 8.1-8.3.
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. In my experience, zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems.

I've been using SeaChem's Iodide to dose but maybe the the 2liter bottle is too old. The bottle well over a year old....

I'm thinking of switching to ESV Iodide. ESV stuff is usually pretty potent.

15yrs ago i took my first crack at dosing and I dosed a lil too much ESV Iodide and it kill a beautiful Moseleya coral, so I never went back. Too shy bc it was so potent

But now with iodide hungry zoas and the fact I have the knowledge about taking dosing very seriously.... ESV might work for me again

 

[ZoWhat]

$99 for 4 gals! Holy shiitake mushrooms

How much of this stuff did you go thru a month?

 

[PeterC99]

$99 for 4 gals! Holy shiitake mushrooms

How much of this stuff did you go thru a month?

I’ve only used one gallon since April. At this rate, the 4 gallon containers should last me 2 1/2 years. Small price to pay for happy Zoas!

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've been using SeaChem's Iodide to dose but maybe the the 2liter bottle is too old. The bottle well over a year old....

I'm thinking of switching to ESV Iodide. ESV stuff is usually pretty potent.

15yrs ago i took my first crack at dosing and I dosed a lil too much ESV Iodide and it kill a beautiful Moseleya coral, so I never went back. Too shy bc it was so potent

But now with iodide hungry zoas and the fact I have the knowledge about taking dosing very seriously.... ESV might work for me again

My favorite is ME iodide which is concentrated

 

[ZoWhat]

My favorite is ME iodide which is concentrated

I like stuff with 'ME' in the title

 

[ZoWhat]

My favorite is ME iodide which is concentrated

Got a buying sales link?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Got a buying sales link?

mecoral.com

 

[ZoWhat]

mecoral.com

@vetteguy53081 Not seeing Iodide on their website . just this Iodine concentrate

ME Iodine Concentrate 2 oz - ME Coral

ME Iodine concentrate is a pharmaceutical grade concentrated additives for maintaining appropriate levels of Iodine in modern aquariums. Iodine levels are quickly depleted by many aquarium inhabitants including corals, and algae. Use ME Iodine to maintain natural seawater levels of .06 ppm...

mecoral.com

 

[ZoWhat]

BTW. This thread is costing me dam fortune. Btwn oxydators and h2o2 jugs and God knows what else

My tank by Jan 2022

I love you guys....

Pray for me when i go to Bankruptcy Court to tell the Judge it all started bc my ZOAS WOULDNT OPEN


.

 

[ZoWhat]

@vetteguy53081 Not seeing Iodide on their website . just this Iodine concentrate

ME Iodine Concentrate 2 oz - ME Coral

ME Iodine concentrate is a pharmaceutical grade concentrated additives for maintaining appropriate levels of Iodine in modern aquariums. Iodine levels are quickly depleted by many aquarium inhabitants including corals, and algae. Use ME Iodine to maintain natural seawater levels of .06 ppm...

mecoral.com

@vetteguy53081 did you see my comment above?

 

[Zoa_Fanatic]

Many of you know me. 6ft 180g zoa paly dominated tank. Blah blah blah.

You also may know for months now I have tried to figure out why 20% of my zoas have SHRUNK to tiny head discs.

I've been thru the ringer, tested every parameter, tested PAR, got flow where I want it, git no3 and po4 where I want it.

The shrunken zoa discs are showing signs of life... especially getting no3 around 10 and po4 btwn 0.1 to 0.2

CURRENT QUESTION IN MY HEAD

About the only thing I have left on the table is UNANSWERED is an unseen bacterial infection causing certain zoas (~20%) to show life but still stay shrunken and mostly closed

How would I know its a bacterial infection of some sort?

The majority of the shrunken dudes are GLUED hard into LR. Would take a chisel to remove them and dip them in some sorta antiseptic.

That whole process of removal and dipping would surely kill a good percentage of them. Urgh.

I have just a few that are on plugs 'freehand' to do whatever with..

I've taken them and done a quick h2o2 spray on them for maybe 1min. Trying to see if some sort if infection is running around my tank

I gave the h2o2 Enough time as to they were tightly closed but the h2o2 bubbled white foam on their stem skin.

I quickly cleaned them up and put back in tank and they STILL stay 90% closed up.

Thoughts?

* Thoughts on HOW to determine a bacterial infection?

* How to TREAT without running a broad-spectrum antibiotic killing a lot of good bacteria in my tank maintaining my no3 po4?

I am FRUSTRATED.....

THOUGHTS?


.

Had this same thing happen. My UV sterilizer straightened the issue out fast. I know it’s what’s keeping it down because every time it blows a bulb I have the same problem until I get the new bulb in.

 

[Zoa_Fanatic]

@vetteguy53081 did you see my comment above?

Check my comment. UV sterilizers are cheap

 

[ZoWhat]

Had this same thing happen. My UV sterilizer straightened the issue out fast. I know it’s what’s keeping it down because every time it blows a bulb I have the same problem until I get the new bulb in.

TBH .... I spend effort in brewing tetraselmis phyto and wouldn't it be counterproductive to dose phyto to then turn around and cook the phyto with 254nm UVC light?

This.... this has been a battle inside my head fir some time

 

[ZoWhat]

Hey folks!

moving discussion over to this thread with pics:

Show & Tell WITH PICS

This is the best phone my phone can mustard This thread is a CONTINUATION of my past threads of my issues with certain zoas being closed for weeks. A complete MYSTERY to me. I encourage you to ZOOM IN on the above pic [which is a perfect example of my issues] and put your eyes on any potential...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

Amen !!