Hammers losing heads slowly over last 4months

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Jason K

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I know this kind of post has been made many times, but I haven’t seen a possible solution yet.

14 gal reef, running about 3 years now. Most of the hammers have been in the tank over a year. About 4 months ago started losing heads (polyp bail out mostly) and have slowly lost about 10ish heads. The hologram is down to one head and I think it’s a goner.

Nothing has changed in terms of flow or chemistry before/after I’ve started experiencing the loss of heads. I’m at a loss. No other coral in my tank have died or are dying. Only possible culprits I can think of are that I introduced some sort of pest along with the pink hammer which was added roughly around the time this problem started (and is the only hammer that seems to be thriving).. Or maybe branching hydroids are irritating the heads.

20% weekly WC.

Last 6 months:
Alk:7.5-8.1
Cal:400-450
Mag: 1300-1350
Nitrate: 4-11
Phosphate: 0.04-0.13
SG: 1.024-1.026

Any help is appreciated…last 3 photos are pocket microscope shots of most recent dead or dying heads.

IMG_6592.jpeg
IMG_6593.jpeg
IMG_6594.jpeg


2026-03-08-15-32-14-887.jpeg
2026-03-08-15-33-05-491.jpeg

2026-03-08-15-34-24-449.jpeg
 
My first question is always what fish are in the tank?
 
My first question is always what fish are in the tank?
pink streaked wrasse, neon goby, yellow clown goby. All have been in the tank 1 year+.

Have an anemone crab and 3 sexy shrimp as well. Sexy shrimp went in roughly at the same time I’ve had the issue, but live on the opposite end of the tank, and I never see them near the hammers.
 
pink streaked wrasse, neon goby, yellow clown goby. All
Have been in the tank 1 year+
No angels even supposedly reef safe ones?
 
I would not call that polyp bailout on the pictures of the yellow one and the hologram. Looks like infection to me.
Hologram…most of that dying head(s) bailed out a few days ago. The orange one is closed, but not dead yet. I expect bail out soon.
 
If you haven't already, I would take a look at your Tank about 2 hours after lights out with a strong Flashlight. I have a crab that only bothers my Duncans in the middle of the night. That's when the pests come out.
 
I know this kind of post has been made many times, but I haven’t seen a possible solution yet.

14 gal reef, running about 3 years now. Most of the hammers have been in the tank over a year. About 4 months ago started losing heads (polyp bail out mostly) and have slowly lost about 10ish heads. The hologram is down to one head and I think it’s a goner.

Nothing has changed in terms of flow or chemistry before/after I’ve started experiencing the loss of heads. I’m at a loss. No other coral in my tank have died or are dying. Only possible culprits I can think of are that I introduced some sort of pest along with the pink hammer which was added roughly around the time this problem started (and is the only hammer that seems to be thriving).. Or maybe branching hydroids are irritating the heads.

20% weekly WC.

Last 6 months:
Alk:7.5-8.1
Cal:400-450
Mag: 1300-1350
Nitrate: 4-11
Phosphate: 0.04-0.13
SG: 1.024-1.026

Any help is appreciated…last 3 photos are pocket microscope shots of most recent dead or dying heads.

IMG_6592.jpeg
IMG_6593.jpeg
IMG_6594.jpeg


2026-03-08-15-32-14-887.jpeg
2026-03-08-15-33-05-491.jpeg

2026-03-08-15-34-24-449.jpeg
Are you adding any supplements like amino acids?
These feed everything good and bad, and may promote a bacteria imbalance.
I have lost euphyllia heads each time I started feeding AB+, 3 times. (Duh, wont do that again)
 
Are you adding any supplements like amino acids?
These feed everything good and bad, and may promote a bacteria imbalance.
I have lost euphyllia heads each time I started feeding AB+, 3 times. (Duh, wont do that agaibrightwel

Are you adding any supplements like amino acids?
These feed everything good and bad, and may promote a bacteria imbalance.
I have lost euphyllia heads each time I started feeding AB+, 3 times. (Duh, wont do that again)
Brightwell amino and reef roids 2x a week. But I’ve been doing this forever…when the hammer were thriving.
 
Are you adding any supplements like amino acids?
These feed everything good and bad, and may promote a bacteria imbalance.
I have lost euphyllia heads each time I started feeding AB+, 3 times. (Duh, wont do that again)
Same I don't dose that **** either. I struggled with my large set up.
PXL_20260226_001802230.jpg
 
Brightwell amino and reef roids 2x a week. But I’ve been doing this forever…when the hammer were thriving.
I would stop the aminos.
The reef roids are mostly phosphates, which your tank seems happy with.
You can always start the aminos again if you think they are helping.
The problem may not be 1 thing but 2 or more contributing.
 
Hologram…most of that dying head(s) bailed out a few days ago. The orange one is closed, but not dead yet. I expect bail out soon.
If the heads breaking up before dropping out of the skeleton it's not polyp bailout. That yellow/orange one looks brown around the edges in between the ridges of the skeleton.

Have you removed any of these and sniffed them? They look like BJD to me.
 
If the heads breaking up before dropping out of the skeleton it's not polyp bailout. That yellow/orange one looks brown around the edges in between the ridges of the skeleton.

Have you removed any of these and sniffed them? They look like BJD to me.
yea, it’s been all sorts…clean full polyp bailout, this weird thing the hologram is doing, and the potential brownish edges of the orange one.

I guess I’ll try the dip…at this point I gotta do something
 
I would stop the aminos.
The reef roids are mostly phosphates, which your tank seems happy with.
You can always start the aminos again if you think they are helping.
The problem may not be 1 thing but 2 or more contributing.
Yep, will try that.
 
Tough situation, and the mixed pattern you're seeing (some heads doing clean bailout, others breaking up with brown edges) actually makes sense if it's a low-grade bacterial infection rather than classic polyp bailout.

A few things worth considering:

1. The amino acid + Reef Roids combo in a 14g can push bacterial load even when parameters look clean. As others mentioned, stop the aminos for at least 3-4 weeks. The fact that things were fine for a long time before doesn't mean they aren't a contributing factor now - sometimes it just takes time for bacterial populations to tip the balance, especially once an initial stressor (possibly the pink hammer introduction?) creates an entry point.

2. On the BJD question - full brown jelly isn't always present. What Shirak is describing is the early/slow form where you get tissue breakdown and brown discoloration at the septa before any slime forms. This is still bacterial, still contagious between heads in close proximity, and still responds to antibacterial dips.

3. Definitely worth doing the KFC dip on anything that still has living tissue. Even without confirmed BJD, the dip protocol won't hurt and may stop the slow creep. The key is following the pre-wash and post-wash steps to the letter.

4. Do the night check W31Olds suggested - 2h after lights out with a flashlight, specifically looking at skeleton bases and any rock near the hammers. Hydroids especially are easy to miss during the day.

5. Remove any skeletons with dead/rotting tissue immediately - in a 14g that organic load sitting next to the surviving heads is constant fuel.

Good luck - hope the remaining ones pull through.
 
Tough situation, and the mixed pattern you're seeing (some heads doing clean bailout, others breaking up with brown edges) actually makes sense if it's a low-grade bacterial infection rather than classic polyp bailout.

A few things worth considering:

1. The amino acid + Reef Roids combo in a 14g can push bacterial load even when parameters look clean. As others mentioned, stop the aminos for at least 3-4 weeks. The fact that things were fine for a long time before doesn't mean they aren't a contributing factor now - sometimes it just takes time for bacterial populations to tip the balance, especially once an initial stressor (possibly the pink hammer introduction?) creates an entry point.

2. On the BJD question - full brown jelly isn't always present. What Shirak is describing is the early/slow form where you get tissue breakdown and brown discoloration at the septa before any slime forms. This is still bacterial, still contagious between heads in close proximity, and still responds to antibacterial dips.

3. Definitely worth doing the KFC dip on anything that still has living tissue. Even without confirmed BJD, the dip protocol won't hurt and may stop the slow creep. The key is following the pre-wash and post-wash steps to the letter.

4. Do the night check W31Olds suggested - 2h after lights out with a flashlight, specifically looking at skeleton bases and any rock near the hammers. Hydroids especially are easy to miss during the day.

5. Remove any skeletons with dead/rotting tissue immediately - in a 14g that organic load sitting next to the surviving heads is constant fuel.

Good luck - hope the remaining ones pull through.
AI GARBAGE
 

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