Hanna Checkers

[gbroadbridge]

I wouldn’t calibrate to RODI if you can avoid it. 1.00 and 1.026 are pretty far apart for an accuracy range. Try to pick up 1.026 calibration fluid and calibrate to that.

But that’s also how this hobby goes. There’s always a “better” way and I’m sure plenty of people calibrate to 1.00 and are just fine.

Milwaukee Refractometers can only be calibrated with RODI.
There is no mechanism to calibrate with another value.

 

[Sinkers]

I wouldn’t calibrate to RODI if you can avoid it. 1.00 and 1.026 are pretty far apart for an accuracy range. Try to pick up 1.026 calibration fluid and calibrate to that.

But that’s also how this hobby goes. There’s always a “better” way and I’m sure plenty of people calibrate to 1.00 and are just fine.

It came with this solution. The issue with it, going off what LFS said was the seal under the lid. Apparently it's been known to evaporate a bit, which messes with results?

It does however have a little seal type cap under the lid these days. It never used to but they weren't sure if it had improved since the past know issues. That's the only reason they advised to use RO water.

 

[208reef]

Nice! How come you decided to get both ranges for nitrate and phosphate?

I debated back and forth which ones to get, but decided just to get all of them since Hanna stuff was 25% off for pre-black Friday on several websites. I haven't started my tank yet. Realistically, the higher range ones will probably be more useful in the first few months, and hopefully I'll get to a point to where I only need the lowest range versions.

If you have the luxury of time to hold off until Black Friday, I'd imagine they will go on sale again.

 

[Sinkers]

Milwaukee Refractometers can only be calibrated with RODI.
There is no mechanism to calibrate with another value.

The fluid in my picture below is that just for cross-check? Like still Zero with RO water and confirm it's accuracy with the supplied fluid?

 

[BriDroid]

I agree with what others have said, try to find them 2nd hand. I was able to find my Phosphorus ULR for $25 on marketplace. I also found my calcium and alkalinity for $25 each. I ended up buying my nitrate HR at the LFS. The only two that I still have are the nitrate and the phosphorus. The others I ended up selling and going to Salifert.

 

[Sinkers]

I debated back and forth which ones to get, but decided just to get all of them since Hanna stuff was 25% off for pre-black Friday on several websites. I haven't started my tank yet. Realistically, the higher range ones will probably be more useful in the first few months, and hopefully I'll get to a point to where I only need the lowest range versions.

If you have the luxury of time to hold off until Black Friday, I'd imagine they will go on sale again.

I'm getting some second hand that are like new for half the price which is nice. Just the three main ones

 

[Sinkers]

I agree with what others have said, try to find them 2nd hand. I was able to find my Phosphorus ULR for $25 on marketplace. I also found my calcium and alkalinity for $25 each. I ended up buying my nitrate HR at the LFS. The only two that I still have are the nitrate and the phosphorus. The others I ended up selling and going to Salifert.

Wasn't a fan of the alkalinity checker? Seems to be a pretty useful one to have I would have thought.

 

[BriDroid]

Wasn't a fan of the alkalinity checker? Seems to be a pretty useful one to have I would have thought.

I liked it, the reagent was just expensive and seems to go bad easily. The Salifert is close enough and way cheaper, and just as easy honestly.

 

[208reef]

Milwaukee Refractometers can only be calibrated with RODI.
There is no mechanism to calibrate with another value.

This is true - you can only calibrate it with distilled/deionized water, but I would still recommend testing with a reference solution at a set known salinity to verify the calibration worked.

 

[xtianGEO]

I wouldn’t calibrate to RODI if you can avoid it. 1.00 and 1.026 are pretty far apart for an accuracy range. Try to pick up 1.026 calibration fluid and calibrate to that.

But that’s also how this hobby goes. There’s always a “better” way and I’m sure plenty of people calibrate to 1.00 and are just fine.

How do you calibrate to 1.026 on the Milwaukee?

 

[Sinkers]

How do you calibrate to 1.026 on the Milwaukee?

You can't. You can only gain confirmation that it's calibrated properly by using the validation solution which is 1.025. As pictured in my post above.

 

[gbroadbridge]

This is true - you can only calibrate it with distilled/deionized water, but I would still recommend testing with a reference solution at a set known salinity to verify the calibration worked.

That's right, and the best check solution is a DIY made with one of Randy's calibration solution recipes.
It tells me that my Milwaukee reads 0.002 high so that's how it is :-| (1.026 reads 1.028)

 

[Reef Puncher]

i adopted the same system that ryan from BRS used and most other experienced reefers use. and that is to use hannah for alk, nitrate, phosphate. and use salifert or aquaforest for mag and calc. the mag and calc have been reported to give skewed numbers, through the tiniest of fault from the user, and from units being bad both. plus mag doesnt need to be checked that often. this is the method TONS of people use.

 

[Reef Puncher]

You can't. You can only gain confirmation that it's calibrated properly by using the validation solution which is 1.025. As pictured in my post above.

thats what i use too. i use that milwaukee, and a backup regular anolog refractometer.

 

[buruskeee]

If you only want to grab 2, Alk and ULR PO3 are most important. Use Salifert for everything else.

 

[Reef Puncher]

If you only want to grab 2, Alk and ULR PO3 are most important. Use Salifert for everything else.

yep this. i would throw nitrate in there too. but if only 2 i agree 100%

 

[mariano]

I use the Hanna Cal, Alk, Mag, Nitrate and Phos. Pretty reliable, and they have them for 25% off.
I do not recommend the Hanna salinity. Is very unreliable.

 

[blazn]

I definitely recommend Hanna Checkers for NO3 & PO4, as the other brand color-based test kits are substandard, in my opinion. For quarantine tanks, you certainly need a Copper Hanna Checker, as you must have a precise measurement to maintain effectiveness.

 

[Fishy Guy]

I like Hanna for Nitrate and Phosphate ULR as the color change kits are hard to read. I use Salifert for Alk and Ca, don't test Mg.

 

[NemLoverSA]

Okay - now for my stupid question ......
When filling testing vials, do you fill to the bottom of the curve of the water? In other words, should the bottom curve line up with the fill marking? Or other????