Help! Freshwater dip made things worse!

ScubaSkeets

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Hi folks!
My Brown Powder Tang had some ich on its fins. I prepared a fresh water dip and an Ich x dip (per Ich x directions) using water from the tank. Put the fish in the freshwater dip for 5 minutes, then put it into the Ich x dip for 30 minutes, then put him back into the DT. He appeared to be fine at first, but soon after, he looked like this:
20210228_182517.jpg

Based on another similar pic I found on here, it is either Ich or Velvet.
I prepared a hospital tank. Only thing I had a spare of is a 3.5 gallon, so I took water from the DT, added 4ml of CopperSafe and placed him in that tank. This morning when I checked on him, he looks like this:
20210301_063020.jpg

I have no idea what to do or what that means. Am I wishfully thinking that the hospital tank is working correctly and those dark spots are just a byproduct of the therapeutic process? Or should I be realistically thinking that it's gotten worse.
Thanks.
 

vetteguy53081

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Looks like bad case of velvet . Velvet may initially start out looking just like ich, with salt or sugar-like “sprinkles” visible mostly on the fins.
Within days or sometimes just hours, these tiny white dots will spread all over the fish’s body, covering it in “dust.” This dust may look grey-gold colored if viewed at the right angle and under the right spectrum of light. For this reason, it may be difficult to see velvet on a yellow or light colored fish (look from an angle, not directly from the side). However, sometimes a fish’s body will look “dirty” or show “dark areas” just before velvet appears.
Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for velvet, but copper also works if symptoms are caught early on. These also work on ich, so if in doubt treating with Chloroquine or copper will have you covered both ways. A freshwater dip and/or chemical bath (discussed in more detail below) is recommended either before or during treatment, due to the severity of this disease; however these would only provide temporary relief and will not eradicate velvet.
You’ve already done FW dip. Now do a 90 minute bath using Ruby Reef Rally. Temperature should match that of tank and heavily aerate the bath water.
Treat for 30 days in a quarantine tank using either Chloroquine phosphate (60 mg/gal) or chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power – 1.75 ppm).
 
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ScubaSkeets

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Looks like bad case of velvet . Velvet may initially start out looking just like ich, with salt or sugar-like “sprinkles” visible mostly on the fins.
Within days or sometimes just hours, these tiny white dots will spread all over the fish’s body, covering it in “dust.” This dust may look grey-gold colored if viewed at the right angle and under the right spectrum of light. For this reason, it may be difficult to see velvet on a yellow or light colored fish (look from an angle, not directly from the side). However, sometimes a fish’s body will look “dirty” or show “dark areas” just before velvet appears.
Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for velvet, but copper also works if symptoms are caught early on. These also work on ich, so if in doubt treating with Chloroquine or copper will have you covered both ways. A freshwater dip and/or chemical bath (discussed in more detail below) is recommended either before or during treatment, due to the severity of this disease; however these would only provide temporary relief and will not eradicate velvet.
You’ve already done FW dip. Now do a 90 minute bath using Ruby Reef Rally. Temperature should match that of tank and heavily aerate the bath water.
Treat for 30 days in a quarantine tank using either Chloroquine phosphate (60 mg/gal) or chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power – 1.75 ppm).
Thanks. Thing is, there were only a few white specks on his fins (hence the dips). The specks all over his body did not appear until I returned him to the DT. Do you think the stress from chasing him around to catch and the the dips put too much stress on him that his immunity got too low and gave the velvet an opportunity to latch onto him? Also, I assume this means that velvet is present in the tank, so even if the fish survives the 30 day quarantine, won't he just get it again when he is returned to the tank, or will the 30 day quarantine help build up the immunity to fight against it?
 

mindme

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Thanks. Thing is, there were only a few white specks on his fins (hence the dips). The specks all over his body did not appear until I returned him to the DT. Do you think the stress from chasing him around to catch and the the dips put too much stress on him that his immunity got too low and gave the velvet an opportunity to latch onto him? Also, I assume this means that velvet is present in the tank, so even if the fish survives the 30 day quarantine, won't he just get it again when he is returned to the tank, or will the 30 day quarantine help build up the immunity to fight against it?

The white dots aren't the parasites, they are like pus pockets as the fish is fighting them.

You need to put your tank fallow for like 72 days(I think it was) for the ich to die off in your tank. It sucks, I had to do it in my 180g right after I started it due to velvet. Only 1 of my fish survived, now I QT everything etc.
 

vetteguy53081

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Thanks. Thing is, there were only a few white specks on his fins (hence the dips). The specks all over his body did not appear until I returned him to the DT. Do you think the stress from chasing him around to catch and the the dips put too much stress on him that his immunity got too low and gave the velvet an opportunity to latch onto him? Also, I assume this means that velvet is present in the tank, so even if the fish survives the 30 day quarantine, won't he just get it again when he is returned to the tank, or will the 30 day quarantine help build up the immunity to fight against it?
It should
There may have also been a temperature difference between dip bucket and tank
 

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