Help I’ve crashed my tank

[ElvisReef]

The excess AB+ is probably fueling your phosphates and nitrites. Try not using it for a couple of weeks and do your scheduled water change and re-test the water a day after so you have a baseline.

I used it 2 times, as directed the only thing I don’t have is a skimmer which is where I think is what messed me up

 

[VintageReefer]

The excess AB+ is probably fueling your phosphates and nitrites. Try not using it for a couple of weeks and do your scheduled water change and re-test the water a day after so you have a baseline.

Agree. See zero reason to add aminos to this tank

 

[bubbgee]

Is there anyone using a phosphate remover that knows will work in my canister filter. , there is this black style sludge or algae that comes on rocks a day after water change.
It’s making corals and rocks so ugly :(

For dinos, I blow those off with a baster and use an in-tank filter pad that I hang with a clip. You can probably get a UV to kill those off but this is the hardest moment of starting a tank. Lots of people give up when plagued with dinos.

 

[twentyleagues]

Is there anyone using a phosphate remover that knows will work in my canister filter. , there is this black style sludge or algae that comes on rocks a day after water change.
It’s making corals and rocks so ugly :(

Get white light pics for possible ID. Your nitrate and phosphate are not that bad. No need for the ab+.

 

[Besieged]

Phosphate .3 is way too low?
Nitrate 13 is excessive ?

These are nearly identical numbers I have and my reef is very successful

According to everything I have read, or been told by the experienced reefers I know, phosphate at 0.3 ppm is on the higher side for a reef tank, and nitrate at 13 ppm is getting into the upper range of what most people aim for. It’s not just about the individual numbers, though - it’s about the ratio between them.

In a reef tank, nitrate is usually much higher than phosphate, often around 10:1. That’s based on the natural "Redfield Ratio" found in the ocean, where corals use nutrients in that proportion. AFAIK, most reef keepers try to keep phosphate low, around 0.05 - 0.1 ppm, and nitrate somewhere between 5 - 20 ppm - usually hovering around 10 or so. The key is stability, since big swings in either direction can stress corals and fuel algae outbreaks.

The main issue with high phosphate is that it tends to lead to nuisance algae, including cyanobacteria. On the flip side, if nitrate is too low, corals might not get enough nitrogen, and beneficial bacteria can struggle.

These numbers aren’t necessarily bad, but at 0.3 ppm phosphate, this is a recipe for algae problems. If everything in your tank is doing well, however, then stability matters more than chasing perfect numbers, and whatever you find works.

However, it's not working here, it seems.

Only way to be dead certain what it is is a microscope.

 

[Freenow54]

What makes you think its phosphate?
I run .3 phosphate and I’ve never seen black sludge

Obviously stop what you are doing !!!! Figure out another method one not so direct like attacking with nukes ! Just try and remove what is feeding the algae one at a time. Also just use a brass brush to remove. It doesn't like that. It took me 6 months to beat it. If you can remove the rocks all the better and scrub the &%&^%$^$& out of them . It will still take the aforementioned time . Mine never came back after 20 years

 

[BeanAnimal]

it’s about the ratio between them....
....In a reef tank, nitrate is usually much higher than phosphate, often around 10:1. That’s based on the natural "Redfield Ratio" found in

Forget the word Redfield - it has no applicable context in reefing water parameters.

 

[Reefering1]

 

[VintageReefer]

Nitrate is excessive, phosphate way too low.

ok so you see the issue here ? Above you say phosphate of .3 is way too low

And here you say .3 is borderline too high —>

According to everything I have read, or been told by the experienced reefers I know, phosphate at 0.3 ppm is on the higher side for a reef tank,



What is your position? That .3 is “way too low” or is it too high? It can’t be both

 

[VintageReefer]

According to everything I have read, or been told by the experienced reefers I know, phosphate at 0.3 ppm is on the higher side for a reef tank, and nitrate at 13 ppm is getting into the upper range of what most people aim for. It’s not just about the individual numbers, though - it’s about the ratio between them.

In a reef tank, nitrate is usually much higher than phosphate, often around 10:1. That’s based on the natural "Redfield Ratio" found in the ocean, where corals use nutrients in that proportion. AFAIK, most reef keepers try to keep phosphate low, around 0.05 - 0.1 ppm, and nitrate somewhere between 5 - 20 ppm - usually hovering around 10 or so. The key is stability, since big swings in either direction can stress corals and fuel algae outbreaks.

The main issue with high phosphate is that it tends to lead to nuisance algae, including cyanobacteria. On the flip side, if nitrate is too low, corals might not get enough nitrogen, and beneficial bacteria can struggle.

These numbers aren’t necessarily bad, but at 0.3 ppm phosphate, this is a recipe for algae problems. If everything in your tank is doing well, however, then stability matters more than chasing perfect numbers, and whatever you find works.

However, it's not working here, it seems.

Only way to be dead certain what it is is a microscope.

There is so much parroted and misapplied info in this post, along with incorrect info, I don’t even know where to begin

 

[VintageReefer]

Obviously stop what you are doing !!!! Figure out another method one not so direct like attacking with nukes ! Just try and remove what is feeding the algae one at a time. Also just use a brass brush to remove. It doesn't like that. It took me 6 months to beat it. If you can remove the rocks all the better and scrub the &%&^%$^$& out of them . It will still take the aforementioned time . Mine never came back after 20 years

I’ve been quoted by mistake

 

[bubbgee]

There is so much parroted and misapplied info in this post, along with incorrect info, I don’t even know where to begin

Yup, I stopped following that redfield ratio.. it's too ideal and makes you chase numbers that would lead to more paranoia and problems. I do know that my tank doesn't consume alk if my phosphates are elevated above .3 but that's just the behavior of my tank and I know that's different from tank to tank since biomes will never be the same in the first place.

I don't chase numbers from any members of our community but I do like to keep my numbers close to the parameters of the sellers I buy from online since they publish that information. Less shock and death that way when acclimating corals in general.

 

[Freenow54]

Get white light pics for possible ID. Your nitrate and phosphate are not that bad. No need for the ab+.

There is so much parroted and misapplied info in this post, along with incorrect info, I don’t even know where to begin

Begin where you first noticed the problem. Stop doing what you did ie eliminate them . Then start over hopefully you have time.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yup, I stopped following that redfield ratio.. it's too ideal and makes you chase numbers

It is not even applicable :)

 

[Besieged]

There is so much parroted and misapplied info in this post, along with incorrect info, I don’t even know where to begin

ok so you see the issue here ? Above you say phosphate of .3 is way too low

And here you say .3 is borderline too high —>

According to everything I have read, or been told by the experienced reefers I know, phosphate at 0.3 ppm is on the higher side for a reef tank,



What is your position? That .3 is “way too low” or is it too high? It can’t be both

I edited my reply based on your first response after re-reading it: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-i’ve-crashed-my-tank.1097404/post-13336109

Sorry, I had things I was doing at the same time, and forgot to call that out in my original reply to you. I originally misread his number as 0.03. On responding, I corrected that original post for the record, and quoted the proper numbers in my reply. Dyslexia is a thing, especially in my case, with numbers.

That said, I still hold that 0.3 is on the high end for phosphate relative to nitrate under the general rule of thumb I’ve been told to follow. I understand that different setups have different tolerances, and exact thresholds will always be debated, but this is the guidance I’ve consistently heard from experienced reefers managing large systems. You’ll also note that I didn’t say anything about mirroring the Redfield Ratio (106:16:1) exactly - I only brought it up because achieving a balance is a key principle behind the recommended nutrient levels in aquariums.

If I’m wrong, I’d love to see the evidence that contradicts what I’ve both read and been told repeatedly. Always happy to learn. Conventional wisdom can age poorly, but as far as I know, the 1:10 guideline capping nitrate at 20 or so, with phos at or under 0.2 is still supported by current research.

For example, from Manta Systems:

This article at the same site also suggests the caps on phosphates for SPS at 0.05ppm, LPS as 0.1ppm, and softies at 0.2ppm for long-term coral health. I've read many others with the same guidance.

At the end of the day, stability and balance matters more than chasing a single number. I appreciate discussions like this because they help refine what works best across different setups, but ultimately, I think we can agree that whatever OP is doing right now isn’t working.

 

[ElvisReef]

More pictures :( I’m working delicately every water change to take out as much of it as I could but it comes back like hell after a day or 2

 

[BeanAnimal]

You’ll also note that I didn’t say anything about mirroring the Redfield Ratio (106:16:1) exactly - I only brought it up because achieving a balance is a key principle behind the recommended nutrient levels in aquariums.

It is not a key principle in achieving balance. Redfield Ratio has no practical application in any reasonable context to reef aquarium water parameters or dosing. If both N and P are not zero, then C is the driving factor (limiter). The ratio of N to P is not relevant.

For example, from Manta Systems:

With all due respect to the author, marine biologist or not, she is creating keyword rich content mill quality pages to keyword pump her site and podcast or whatever it is she is trying to monetize or promote.

At the end of the day, stability and balance matters

But does it really? Something to honestly ponder.

 

[ElvisReef]

Do you use RODI water to make your salt for water changes?

I do not believe the day after a water change you should be seeing that.

I purchased pre made water , always have from same lfs

 

[ElvisReef]

I edited my reply based on your first response after re-reading it: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-i’ve-crashed-my-tank.1097404/post-13336109

Sorry, I had things I was doing at the same time, and forgot to call that out in my original reply to you. I originally misread his number as 0.03. On responding, I corrected that original post for the record, and quoted the proper numbers in my reply. Dyslexia is a thing, especially in my case, with numbers.

That said, I still hold that 0.3 is on the high end for phosphate relative to nitrate under the general rule of thumb I’ve been told to follow. I understand that different setups have different tolerances, and exact thresholds will always be debated, but this is the guidance I’ve consistently heard from experienced reefers managing large systems. You’ll also note that I didn’t say anything about mirroring the Redfield Ratio (106:16:1) exactly - I only brought it up because achieving a balance is a key principle behind the recommended nutrient levels in aquariums.

If I’m wrong, I’d love to see the evidence that contradicts what I’ve both read and been told repeatedly. Always happy to learn. Conventional wisdom can age poorly, but as far as I know, the 1:10 guideline capping nitrate at 20 or so, with phos at or under 0.2 is still supported by current research.

For example, from Manta Systems:

This article at the same site also suggests the caps on phosphates for SPS at 0.05ppm, LPS as 0.1ppm, and softies at 0.2ppm for long-term coral health. I've read many others with the same guidance.

At the end of the day, stability and balance matters more than chasing a single number. I appreciate discussions like this because they help refine what works best across different setups, but ultimately, I think we can agree that whatever OP is doing right now isn’t working.

In my defense in my 9 months never had experienced this till I used the Reese’s ab + as directed and used it 2 times a week apart

 

[ElvisReef]

See the white clown , look at gills and stripes look like it’s missing white -.-or am I just now paranoid