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Will Dinos pass? I thought it was a death sentence.You going to open a door and be overwhelmed with different input on how to deal with it. Just leave it alone and let it pass.
26 gallon AIO. Nitrate 0 phos 0 ph 8.1 Alk 9 calcium 390 ammonia 0 salinity 1.024 temp 79. I run skimmer 24/7 and have filter floss with bio media. Dosing 2ml of MB7 once a week. Just started dosing all for reef 1ml a day. dosing all for reef made my ph jump from 7.8 to 8.1 quickly. Alk stayed same.not a death sentence, but will take some time to beat. i do believe this to be dino's.
first, what are your water parameters? what is your filtration?
cut back on dosing MB7, and dose some nitrates/phosphates. the MB7 is likely keeping your numbers at double 0 causing the issue. i would dose 1ml/10G of hydrogen peroxide to help kill off the dino's and potentially cyano. once you start seeing numbers when you test for no3/po4(ideally anything over 3ppm no3 and 0.01 po4), then dose MB7 at half the dose you normally do, so 1ml/week. turn off skimmer to help with raising nutrients(or run it for 12hrs on/off)[edit: or keep it on and just remove the collection cup]26 gallon AIO. Nitrate 0 phos 0 ph 8.1 Alk 9 calcium 390 ammonia 0 salinity 1.024 temp 79. I run skimmer 24/7 and have filter floss with bio media. Dosing 2ml of MB7 once a week. Just started dosing all for reef 1ml a day. dosing all for reef made my ph jump from 7.8 to 8.1 quickly. Alk stayed same.
It looks like it is too far gone to let it pass, the good news is you don’t have much corals in there and it will be easy to clean, take out rock and clean, vacuum the sand, clean all the glass, change filters, try and get all parameters in range and then treat any that are out of range, do a 30% water change, it should look like new.
You definitely have to start working it Now though.By pass I mean, give it about 8 months and it’ll go away.
What is “working it”. The scrub and water change?You definitely have to start working it Now though.
You have to get those parameters in range now, especially nitrate and phosphate or it will never pass, just keep coming back, and more types of algae will come into the tank, and you must do water changes on a regular basis.What is “working it”. The scrub and water change?
The last thing you want to do is a water change with Dino’s.
This is my second tank in the last few years with Dino’s
All KP rock (live ocean rock)
Large UV
Detectable nutrients
Everything stable
Dino’s took over my tank for about 7-8 months
Just leave them alone. Read the large thread I posted. It’s all only a band aid
I have a frogspawn, colony of zoas and GSP & 1 fire shrimp. I had a clownfish, but lost him yesterday. I never had these kind of problems 15 years ago when I used live rock from FIJI. My calcium, mag, Ph, and alk were all low. The all for reef stabilized those parameters. I need to start mixing my own water. I'm starting to not trust the lfs stuff. Im curious to see if I can raise nitrate with ammonia chloride now that my fish is gone. I removed all chemipure and I am running my skimmer all the way open with the cup drain open to aerate. I did notice a slight color change in my phosphate test last night. Im hoping the nutrients rise. I have blacked out the tank for the next few days as well. I will write a post of my experience and results when all this is done.No water changes, nutrients is what you need.
Microscope to see what your dealing with. Do they spin like tops?
H2o2 helps, UV if they go in the water column.
Why all for reef? You have no coral that I see. Nothing using all for reef.
Feed that tank! No nutrient export.
Edit: found this thread, you have seen them, does it look like these?
Thread 'Dinoflagellate ID' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellate-id.687674/