Hello all! I am on a quest to build the best surface to place my tank on. I have read all of the horror stories (ex: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/f...ivider-reef-build.296077/page-18#post-4799379 ) and plenty other of large tanks/stands failing over time.
Identify the problem: Having a stand with slight imperfections that creates highs and lows of pressure all around the tank of such size (2000+lbs). Main concern being the front bowed pane (72"x 29")
The stand I built is made from construction grade lumber, and saws at not perfect, nor am I. I know the top of it is not 100% level or without height variations between support beams.
I need to find a material to put between tank and stand.
My fears:
I read a lot of people using yoga mats, neoprene, or thin Styrofoam. that is great for filling the gaps, but does not solve supporting the low points (gaps between bottom of the tank and the top of the stand.) So unless there is proof out there I have not seen I don't want to use these materials
My current plan:
MDF wood is about the smoothest material besides thick glass ($$$) available I can think of to support the weight while providing no pressure points or lows. I want to put mortar/grout/bondo on top of the frame, then place the sheet of 1/2" MDF on top of that, and level it before it sets.
1/2" MDF over 3/4" plywood again due to the nature of construction supplies varying greatly.
Bondo vs mortar/grout: need to figure this part out. need something that wont crumble over time, and relies on a seal to repel water/chemicals which is why bondo joined the discussion.
tank is on a slab so weight is not a top concern.
Am I overthinking this? do we know the failure number for highs/lows on a 72"x 1/2" piece of glass
this is my first tank above 120g, I have much to learn
Identify the problem: Having a stand with slight imperfections that creates highs and lows of pressure all around the tank of such size (2000+lbs). Main concern being the front bowed pane (72"x 29")
The stand I built is made from construction grade lumber, and saws at not perfect, nor am I. I know the top of it is not 100% level or without height variations between support beams.
I need to find a material to put between tank and stand.
My fears:
- Tank failure due to glass cracking X years from now
- Bow glass "hazing/distorting" from X years of inconsistent support all around
- Spending crazy amounts on a solution
- The top mating surface will provide consistent pressure anywhere on the tank bottom
- The top surface shall have a flatness < X mm ( I cannot prove the correct threshold, 2mm is my current target)
- The support shall not degrade in less than 10 years
- The stand will be waterproof
- All materials shall be resistant to salt exposure over 10 years (bad Req, I know)
I read a lot of people using yoga mats, neoprene, or thin Styrofoam. that is great for filling the gaps, but does not solve supporting the low points (gaps between bottom of the tank and the top of the stand.) So unless there is proof out there I have not seen I don't want to use these materials
My current plan:
MDF wood is about the smoothest material besides thick glass ($$$) available I can think of to support the weight while providing no pressure points or lows. I want to put mortar/grout/bondo on top of the frame, then place the sheet of 1/2" MDF on top of that, and level it before it sets.
1/2" MDF over 3/4" plywood again due to the nature of construction supplies varying greatly.
Bondo vs mortar/grout: need to figure this part out. need something that wont crumble over time, and relies on a seal to repel water/chemicals which is why bondo joined the discussion.
tank is on a slab so weight is not a top concern.
Am I overthinking this? do we know the failure number for highs/lows on a 72"x 1/2" piece of glass
this is my first tank above 120g, I have much to learn
I can't recall coming across a bow front aquarium that didn't have a rim on the top and bottom. Does yours? If so, that's the only part of the tank that's actually touching the stand. You don't need a perfectly flat stand, but something that's fairly close is the goal. With rimless tanks, we put something compressible under the tank to take up as much of the variation as we can because those tanks do have the glass sitting directly on the stand.
