Help please! Heater broke water is 100F

[hbash]

Sorry for your loses. Most of what survived will most likely recover. Go over the rocks carefully looking for dead organisms and remove them, or just keep them in a fallow environment and watch for dead organisms.

When you have a major temperature change event (either way), bring the tank and inhabitants back to temperature slowly.

Unfortunately heaters are the single biggest cause of system crashes. There just are no fail-proof heaters. Eheim heaters are very good and fail less than many others. There are threads and threads on heaters and redundancy. You can go crazy with redundancy. Failing ON is the most common heater failure so a simple external temperature probe connected to a cutoff switch is a 90% solution. I know someone makes one but I haven't been able to find it now that I want to find it. I'm not really big on using a heater controller to control the heater. I'd rather have a simple voltage cutoff if the temperature goes more than a few degrees over the set temperature. That said Inkbird is very popular and anything RANCO-based is probably as good as it gets.

Give your tank and what's left time to recover. More has survived than you will believe.

I use my APEX and two temperature probes as backup. If my temp goes over 80 I turn off power to the heater and if the temp is less than 78 I turn power on.

 

[elcapitan1993]

I’m curious, why is it better ? Lots of people use the Inkbird, as I do, but I’ve never heard about this one.

Because you can set it to turn on in 0.1 intervals instead of 1 degree interval, I have mine come on when it drops 0.2 degrees so it keeps my temperature EXTREMELY stable, I have never had a issue with it either unlike inkbird witch I have to change out every year, it did but the good plastic type probe that goes on the inkbird for it though since it comes with a Metal one. It’s been a good stable heater controller for me for 2 years now

 

[Idech]

Because you can set it to turn on in 0.1 intervals instead of 1 degree interval, I have mine come on when it drops 0.2 degrees so it keeps my temperature EXTREMELY stable, I have never had a issue with it either unlike inkbird witch I have to change out every year, it did but the good plastic type probe that goes on the inkbird for it though since it comes with a Metal one. It’s been a good stable heater controller for me for 2 years now

If you use Celcius, you can adjust in increments of 0.3 degrees if I remember correctly. Not as good as 0.1 but good enough.

The old Inkbirds had metal probes but the newer ones made for Aquariums have a non-corrosive probe made of plastic.

I’ve had mine for about 2 years, never any problem.

Not saying yours isn’t more precise, but the Inkbird is a solid choice as well.

 

[elcapitan1993]

If you use Celcius, you can adjust in increments of 0.3 degrees if I remember correctly. Not as good as 0.1 but good enough.

The old Inkbirds had metal probes but the newer ones made for Aquariums have a non-corrosive probe made of plastic.

I’ve had mine for about 2 years, never any problem.

Not saying yours isn’t more precise, but the Inkbird is a solid choice as well.

Yeah it is I have inkbirds on my freshwater tanks, I just like the fact that I can fine tune my reef tank with this one, I didn’t know that about Celsius though, to bad i only know 25 Celsius is 77 degrees lol Celsius is so different

 

[dferrant]

quality Heater + controller...

 

[spagetti]

Hi everyone, thank you so much for the advice. I have been following but this is so stressful I haven't posted again till now. Thank you for the kind words as well. The heat seemed to only kill the corals and fish, and the ammonia and nitrite are taking out everything else. Like many suggested I'll try and focus on that before moving forward.

 

[LeftyReefer]

A new 300W inkbird titanium heater is only like $25 on amazon. I just threw one in my QT tank and its working better than my old heater it replaced.