Help reef tank not happy

Fredrxn

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Hello guys I Having trouble with my reef tank it’s a 65 gallon aio tank. Tank has been up for almost 9 months.my corals are not happy.tank has cyano and green algae and some fern looking algae cyano has bubbles in it…but it’s not Stringy like Dinos. I dose nitrates and phosphate seachem reef carbonate as needed to keep them from hitting zero and dkh where I want it

dkh is 8 to 9
Nitrates 4.09 ppm
Po4 0.07 ppm
Calcium 435ppm
Magnesium 1380 ppm

I have cadlights pls v2 skimmer is the skimmer to small..it’s rated for about 40 gallon tank .
Also have a pentair 50 watt Sterilizer on tank

should I dose like marcobactor clean?
I don’t feed the corals
I have tested par it’s 80 to 130 with 2 ai primes reef
I only use two Pieces of filter floss on the tank should add more?
Did a ati water test and Iodine came back low
Here are some pics

E024C02A-FE75-4C89-9717-0AFE5E1C968B.jpeg 4FBCE5EB-CBAF-4452-9E53-3F1CF96681C9.jpeg F83E628E-161C-4742-80D0-4DBD070C5252.jpeg 355577EA-1FA8-40BA-8EED-A358979914CB.jpeg 8D8540F0-B728-410E-A430-2ECD330C06CE.jpeg 960D4C90-D1A5-47DA-A577-F490F924B88C.jpeg
 

Morphinel

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What type of water are you using for water changes? What’s the schedule and how much water are you changing? Tank doesn’t look HORRIBLE. I’d first start by upgrading that skimmer. Get as big as you can fit in a chamber. What does your clean up crew look like? I don’t see much in the pictures. Also if you’re dosing for calc and other things and your numbers are that low with the low amount of coral you have, I’m guessing your not doing water changes frequently enough or your using poor water.

EDIT: A 50 watt UV sterilizer is excessive on that tank. I’d recommend downgrading or removing. I run one in my tank but in my opinion it’s not a necessity and I’d much rather have a bigger skimmer.
 
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CanuckReefer

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What type of water are you using for water changes? What’s the schedule and how much water are you changing? Tank doesn’t look HORRIBLE. I’d first start by upgrading that skimmer. Get as big as you can fit in a chamber. What does your clean up crew look like? I don’t see much in the pictures.

EDIT: A 50 watt UV sterilizer is excessive on that tank. I’d recommend downgrading or removing. I run one in my tank but in my opinion it’s not a necessity and I’d much rather have a bigger skimmer.
Agreed 50 watts is off the charts big. It is killing all of the beneficial stuff as it runs...THIS is potentially the main problem. I have one but its 13 watt on a 90 gallon and I run it 6 hours a day.
 
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Fredrxn

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What type of water are you using for water changes? What’s the schedule and how much water are you changing? Tank doesn’t look HORRIBLE. I’d first start by upgrading that skimmer. Get as big as you can fit in a chamber. What does your clean up crew look like? I don’t see much in the pictures.

EDIT: A 50 watt UV sterilizer is excessive on that tank. I’d recommend downgrading or removing. I run one in my tank but in my opinion it’s not a necessity and I’d much rather have a bigger skimmer.
I have a ro buddy my Ro water has zero tds I change 10 gallons of water weekly and I vacuum all of my sand weekly…I use Red Sea blue bucket salt …I have a reef octopus classic 1000 hob I can put on the tank I have a 5 hermit carbs 2 Turbo snails 3 more other snails and 1 sand snail and a tiger conch…there’s also green algae growing on Zoas frags.I have 2 Nero’s 3 in tank on random flow at 35% power..I have the oversized uv because I had Dino’s but not anymore…Uv is 40 watts look at it wrong …I’ll just remove it thanks for ur reply really Appreciate it
 
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Fredrxn

Fredrxn

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Agreed 50 watts is off the charts big. It is killing all of the beneficial stuff as it runs...THIS is potentially the main problem. I have one but its 13 watt on a 90 gallon and I run it 6 hours a day.
Thanks for the reply it’s 40 watts I look at it I’ll wroung I’ll remove it
 

Pistondog

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The sterilizer may be killing the bacteria that compete with cyano.
I'd also stop dosing nutrients as the algae is consuming them before you can measure.
Dose some bacteria, mb7 or Dr tims.
How is your flow? If too low on sand bed, old food and detritus might build up.
 

Morphinel

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I have a ro buddy my Ro water has zero tds I change 10 gallons of water weekly and I vacuum all of my sand weekly…I use Red Sea blue bucket salt …I have a reef octopus classic 1000 hob I can put on the tank I have a 5 hermit carbs 2 Turbo snails 3 more other snails and 1 sand snail and a tiger conch…there’s also green algae growing on Zoas frags.I have 2 Nero’s 3 in tank on random flow at 35% power..I have the oversized uv because I had Dino’s but not anymore…Uv is 40 watts look at it wrong …I’ll just remove it thanks for ur reply really Appreciate it
I would get some more of a cleanup crew. I recommend reefcleaners and email John. He will make you up a pack to deal with all your algae issues. Definitely need some nassarius type snails in the tank. This will help fix your issues in conjunction with the other recommendations. Also I wouldn’t vacuum your sand bed. Just leave it. Get a sand sifting star or a fighting conch or two.
When is the last time you changed your RO membranes? I’d recommend going up to 15 gallons every week.
 
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Fredrxn

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The sterilizer may be killing the bacteria that compete with cyano.
I'd also stop dosing nutrients as the algae is consuming them before you can measure.
Dose some bacteria, mb7 or Dr tims.
How is your flow? If too low on sand bed, old food and detritus might build up.
I have 2 Nero 3 at random flow 35% power…if I stop dowsing po4 and nitrates they go to zero don’t want to get Dino’s agean
 

Morphinel

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I have 2 Nero 3 at random flow 35% power…if I stop dowsing po4 and nitrates they go to zero don’t want to get Dino’s agean
What is happening is your putting a bandaid over the issue that is causing the dinos. These recommendations should help reduce and eliminate the main issue that is causing the dinos and other issues.
 

vetteguy53081

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Run UV part time placing it on a timer and running it 8 hours at Night- Not during the day. Siphon up as much as you can and then do this:
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

ALSO: Can you retake pics under white lights to confirm what you have?
 
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Fredrxn

Fredrxn

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I would get some more of a cleanup crew. I recommend reefcleaners and email John. He will make you up a pack to deal with all your algae issues. Definitely need some nassarius type snails in the tank. This will help fix your issues in conjunction with the other recommendations. Also I wouldn’t vacuum your sand bed. Just leave it. Get a sand sifting star or a fighting conch or two.
When is the last time you changed your RO membranes? I’d recommend going up to 15 gallons every week.
Ok I will do that I change them about a week ago
Here the ati results of tank water and ro water… test are about a month old…
 
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Fredrxn

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Run UV part time placing it on a timer and running it 8 hours at Night- Not during the day. Siphon up as much as you can and then do this:
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

ALSO: Can you retake pics under white lights to confirm what you have?
Ok here are some pics
 

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vetteguy53081

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vetteguy53081

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Should I put a Nero 3 lower down by the sand for more flow
You can But direct it towards the sand- not at it as you’ll have a sandstorm and bacterial bloom
 

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