Help with dinoflagellates

[chicken lady]

Good evening everyone, I am new to the hobby of Marine, the tank was set up 10 months ago, and all seemed to be going well, even though I now know that it was not chemically balanced so because of my error I now have a problem with Dino's. I was advised to add Silicate and to increase the Nitrate to encourage Diatoms to take over, and have been doing this since late August. Now it's October and I am still battling on, there has been a slight improvement but I still have not got rid of the Dino's, any advice would be greatly appreciated, I did manage to get a microscope so I am 100% sure that this is the problem. Thanks in advance.

 

[Fish Fan]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Do you know what your phosphate concentration is? In addition to dosing silicate and keeping non-zero nitrates, you want to maintain non-zero phosphate as well. If either the nitrate or phosphate "bottoms out" to zero, that is often said to invite dinos.

In addition to water parameters, try to manually remove what you can, blow it off your rocks with your trusty turkey baster, and siphon it up, and/or let your mechanical pull it out, and then promptly change out the mechanical media.

Here's a video that may be helpful:

 

[BryanM]

Dinos is one of the bains of our existence in this hobby.

To truly fight them you need to know which kind you have, and that is only really doable with a microscope.

 

[Mongo1.0]

Definitely maintain the nitrates and phosphates in their parameters.
Nitrate 5-50ppm
Phosphate .06-.3

Getting over a case of dinos myself. Every time I fall out of those parameters I get dinos or cyano. Lowered the lights (mainly the white), removed what was there, got the parameters back in spec and added a UV sterilizer.

 

[painter1982]

Get a cheap ozone generator from Amazon. Cured mine when nothing else would.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good evening everyone, I am new to the hobby of Marine, the tank was set up 10 months ago, and all seemed to be going well, even though I now know that it was not chemically balanced so because of my error I now have a problem with Dino's. I was advised to add Silicate and to increase the Nitrate to encourage Diatoms to take over, and have been doing this since late August. Now it's October and I am still battling on, there has been a slight improvement but I still have not got rid of the Dino's, any advice would be greatly appreciated, I did manage to get a microscope so I am 100% sure that this is the problem. Thanks in advance.

Low nitrate and phosphate always blamed. When we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed. Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[Mongo1.0]

Get a cheap ozone generator from Amazon. Cured mine when nothing else would.

I will keep that one in mind next time... There will always be a next time, lol.

 

[kgalarr0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

 

[Mongo1.0]

Good evening everyone, I am new to the hobby of Marine, the tank was set up 10 months ago, and all seemed to be going well, even though I now know that it was not chemically balanced so because of my error I now have a problem with Dino's. I was advised to add Silicate and to increase the Nitrate to encourage Diatoms to take over, and have been doing this since late August. Now it's October and I am still battling on, there has been a slight improvement but I still have not got rid of the Dino's, any advice would be greatly appreciated, I did manage to get a microscope so I am 100% sure that this is the problem. Thanks in advance.

Low nitrate and phosphate always blamed. When we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed. Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Thanks for bringing the "filtering siphon water and sending back to the tank". Forgot about doing that.

 

[Mongo1.0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

That is the most collective plan with everything in it. I do all those things, but I forget about mentioning them all. ADHD has it's fault. Ok to relay this info verbatim? Don't want to steal your thunder.

 

[kgalarr0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

That is the most collective plan with everything in it. I do all those things, but I forget about mentioning them all. ADHD has it's fault. Ok to relay this info verbatim? Don't want to steal your thunder.

Please do! I have battled dinos too much. After finding a solution that works for me, and that it makes sense to me, I would like for people to avoid all the suffering that goes along with dinos. They really take all the joy out of the hobby, and its sad to see people get disappointed for something that is actually fixable!

Tweak this if you need to. But we need to see what works!

 

[Mongo1.0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

That is the most collective plan with everything in it. I do all those things, but I forget about mentioning them all. ADHD has it's fault. Ok to relay this info verbatim? Don't want to steal your thunder.

Please do! I have battled dinos too much. After finding a solution that works for me, and that it makes sense to me, I would like for people to avoid all the suffering that goes along with dinos. They really take all the joy out of the hobby, and its sad to see people get disappointed for something that is actually fixable!

Tweak this if you need to. But we need to see what works!

Will do and thanks. Just started a log of using nudibranch Berghia for aptasia. Bunch of peeps say they don't work, but this is round 2 for me. Round 1 made them disappear for a year and a half. Patience is the key. Peeps gotta realize the process.

 

[kgalarr0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

That is the most collective plan with everything in it. I do all those things, but I forget about mentioning them all. ADHD has it's fault. Ok to relay this info verbatim? Don't want to steal your thunder.

Please do! I have battled dinos too much. After finding a solution that works for me, and that it makes sense to me, I would like for people to avoid all the suffering that goes along with dinos. They really take all the joy out of the hobby, and its sad to see people get disappointed for something that is actually fixable!

Tweak this if you need to. But we need to see what works!

Will do and thanks. Just started a log of using nudibranch Berghia for aptasia. Bunch of peeps say they don't work, but this is round 2 for me. Round 1 made them disappear for a year and a half. Patience is the key. Peeps gotta realize the process.

My understanding is that Berghia's diet is aptasia, so I agree that it should work in atleast controlling it! Peppermint shrimp also help.

 

[Mongo1.0]

These are the main things to do for all dino problems.

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week. Goal is to remove as many as posible dinos AND algae, if present. Also, 0 nutrients is a plus. Remember that they live and need to eat too. They will get weak, but still feed from light. At this point remember that dinos, algae, and other things are consuming nitrates, so the 0 nutrients are an illusion. Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients. Try to remove garbage before decay, and remlve nutrients.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration. Remove as much garbage as humanly possible. That includes blowing rock and sand.

4. After 2-4 weeks, its time for what will change everything. One final water change, dose bacteria, and 3 day black out. ABSOLUTELY NO LIGHT.

5. When blackout is complete, do another large water change. THINGS ARE DYING, and that releases fuel for dinos and algae. IMMEDIATELY put in WANTED LIFE. Example: Live rock and live sand, and bateria.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

Note: You have dinos likely because most ljfe starved when nutrients bottomed out. Dino took advantage, and now dominates, so the minority does not have enough to eat. So you have to achieve the opposite, basically.

This is the way, and I hope that more people can replicate this.

That is the most collective plan with everything in it. I do all those things, but I forget about mentioning them all. ADHD has it's fault. Ok to relay this info verbatim? Don't want to steal your thunder.

Please do! I have battled dinos too much. After finding a solution that works for me, and that it makes sense to me, I would like for people to avoid all the suffering that goes along with dinos. They really take all the joy out of the hobby, and its sad to see people get disappointed for something that is actually fixable!

Tweak this if you need to. But we need to see what works!

Will do and thanks. Just started a log of using nudibranch Berghia for aptasia. Bunch of peeps say they don't work, but this is round 2 for me. Round 1 made them disappear for a year and a half. Patience is the key. Peeps gotta realize the process.

My understanding is that Berghia's diet is aptasia, so I agree that it should work in atleast controlling it! Peppermint shrimp also help.

I tried the peppermint shrimp. They are not guaranteed to eat aptasia. Berghia are going to eat aptasia. Otherwise, they will die .

 

[Fish Fan]

Thank you for your lengthy and well thought out approach to tackling dinos. I do have some concern for what you're suggesting, and I'd like to address some of it if I can

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

I'd go right to the 3 day blackout. No need to prolong this.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week.

To me this is a waste of water. Yes, it's a great idea to remove the dinos from the water, but why not just filter the water, and then add it back to the aquarium?

Also, 0 nutrients is a plus.

I think you're referring to nitrate and phosphate, and it is NEVER a good idea to zero out these parameters.

Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients.

And if the OP has corals, they are suffering too.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration.

I personally do not advise dosing all these bacteria-in-a-bottle products, by-and-large they are band-aids, and not a long term solution. Overdosing these products can result in the wrong kind of bacteria populating the system, and at it's worst it can cause a bacteria bloom that can cause dangerously low levels of oxygen.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

Most of us here on R2R are following Randy Holmes-Farley's advise on parameter levels. I think this post should help. 5.0 ppm to 50 ppm nitrate, and 0.06 ppm to 0.3 ppm phosphate:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/article-thoughts-on-nutrient-target-ranges.1095268/

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

And this starves corals and macro algae too

I hope this helps

 

[Fish Fan]

I tried the peppermint shrimp. They are not guaranteed to eat aptasia. Berghia are going to eat aptasia. Otherwise, they will die .

You need to get the right species of peppermint shrimp, there are some that don't care for Aptasia, but the right ones will mow them down

 

[kgalarr0]

Thank you for your lengthy and well thought out approach to tackling dinos. I do have some concern for what you're suggesting, and I'd like to address some of it if I can

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

I'd go right to the 3 day blackout. No need to prolong this.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week.

To me this is a waste of water. Yes, it's a great idea to remove the dinos from the water, but why not just filter the water, and then add it back to the aquarium?

Also, 0 nutrients is a plus.

I think you're referring to nitrate and phosphate, and it is NEVER a good idea to zero out these parameters.

Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients.

And if the OP has corals, they are suffering too.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration.

I personally do not advise dosing all these bacteria-in-a-bottle products, by-and-large they are band-aids, and not a long term solution. Overdosing these products can result in the wrong kind of bacteria populating the system, and at it's worst it can cause a bacteria bloom that can cause dangerously low levels of oxygen.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

Most of us here on R2R are following Randy Holmes-Farley's advise on parameter levels. I think this post should help. 5.0ppm to 50 ppm nitrate, and 0.1 ppm to 0.3 ppm phosphate:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/article-thoughts-on-nutrient-target-ranges.1095268/

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

And this starves corals and macro algae

I hope this helps

Thanks for your reply! I have no idea how to reply in sections like you did.

My suggestion here is towards the aggressive approach, and it may be more helpful for somebody that has tried it all without success. I battled dinos for 3 years without winning. I tried your suggestions and absolutely everything you can think of. There is a lot to try in 3 years. I took a small biology course and came up with the plan. I executed it, no corals or fish were hurt. Dinos were gone immediately. I know my plan does not sound like what we all know, but if it worked like magic for me, it may work as well for others. Thats the only reason I put this here.

And yes, aeration is very important when dosing bacteria to avoid asfixia. But if nutrients are low, the chances of a bacterial bloom are low due to low nutrients.

Edit: The reason for water change vs reintroducing water to the tank ia to keep nutrients low or 0 so we can start microbiome again and reitroduce a high amount of competition to dominate and use the low amount of nutrients in the water.

 

[Fish Fan]

Thanks for your reply! I have no idea how to reply in sections like you did.

It takes some effort

I just want to stress that we never want to starve algae (dinos) because we are also then starving corals and even desirable macro algae

 

[kgalarr0]

Thanks for your reply! I have no idea how to reply in sections like you did.

It takes some effort

I just want to stress that we never want to starve algae (dinos) because we are also then starving corals and even desirable macro algae

This is true. It must be managed carefully. I only have softies in the tank I was talking about. It can be more delicate if there are more complicated types of corals in the tank.

Now, I personally believe that what makes it hard to beat dinos is that there is some sort of illusion of 0 nitrates and phosphates. It seems that way, but I think that these nutrients are still being used up by corals immediately as they appear. So we just see 0 when we test. Same thing with dinos. Although photosynthetic, they use nutrients. They are using a lot. As we take them out of the tank, those nutrients become available for corals. But that is something I have not fully tested. I did so many water changes and I still had some algae growing. That tells me that the nutrients are there, so I did not reintroduce water to the tank.

The main goal for me is to lower nutrients and dino population as much as possible, black out, and immediately reintroduce more wanted life while making sure that at that point there are low and detectable levels of nutrients.

 

[Mongo1.0]

Thank you for your lengthy and well thought out approach to tackling dinos. I do have some concern for what you're suggesting, and I'd like to address some of it if I can

1. Start lowering your light intensity and time. Slowly but surely. That will prob take 2 weeks.

I'd go right to the 3 day blackout. No need to prolong this.

2. Large water changes (maybe 50%) around 3 times a week.

To me this is a waste of water. Yes, it's a great idea to remove the dinos from the water, but why not just filter the water, and then add it back to the aquarium?

Also, 0 nutrients is a plus.

I think you're referring to nitrate and phosphate, and it is NEVER a good idea to zero out these parameters.

Also remember that things are starving and dying, releasing nutrients.

And if the OP has corals, they are suffering too.

3. All this time, dose bacteria daily (turn off flow and skimmer so the bacteria settles) and maximize mechanical filtration.

I personally do not advise dosing all these bacteria-in-a-bottle products, by-and-large they are band-aids, and not a long term solution. Overdosing these products can result in the wrong kind of bacteria populating the system, and at it's worst it can cause a bacteria bloom that can cause dangerously low levels of oxygen.

6. Goad from now on: Keep nitrates and phosphates LOW, but PRESENT. Nitrates around 5 to 10ppm and phosphates from 0.03 to 0.10. This leave some fuel, but not a surplus. Guess who gets to eat the little fuel available? Well... everything. However, if you compare the microbiome, dinos will form the minority, so the majority, and / or the CURRENT dominant life will take advantage of the available nutrients this time .

Most of us here on R2R are following Randy Holmes-Farley's advise on parameter levels. I think this post should help. 5.0 ppm to 50 ppm nitrate, and 0.1 ppm to 0.3 ppm phosphate:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/article-thoughts-on-nutrient-target-ranges.1095268/

The end. This either completely starves the dinos, or keeps them undetectable.

And this starves corals and macro algae too

I hope this helps

Dinos for me
- lower lights
- get parameters in spec
- clean out the crap
- UV helps
- patience