Help with setting up the tech on my Red Sea Reefer G2 system

[Smithrz]

Hey folks,

I’m brand new to all of this, and i’ve never fully set up a marine system before. In order to make it “easier” for myself, I opted for a Red Sea Reefer G2+ 170, so it came with the following tech:

- ReefBeat Dual Controller
- ReefRun 5500 return pump
- ReefWave 25 power head
- Reefer DC Skimmer (with fine tuning sensors)
- ReefLED 90
- ReafBeat ATO
- ReefMat 500 (not installed yet, will add after cycle)

And I also got

- DD Titanium heater (250w)
- DD Dual heating & cooling controller

So, for someone who’s new to this, it’s a lot! I have everything set up, cables routed, power bricks organised, etc.. (all outside the tank cabinet in a separate storage cabinet), and assuming a final delivery comes tomorrow, I should be able to start making my RO water, and start soaking my EcoReef rock (thanks for that nugget via the forums, I would have just put them straight in the tank otherwise), and I can also leak test everything.

My question is this (sorry, just wanted to provide all the spec above first):

When I come to set all the tech up via the ReefBeat app, should I do that with the tank fully wet, or can I set them up while it's dry? I’d ideally like to ensure everything is at least operational before it’s all submerged etc… I’m just cocnerned about testing things like pumps without water, is that a thing? Or can I just start getting things set up in the app now?

Not gonna lie, I’m super anxious about the leak test and first initial run of everything, haha. If anyone has set one of these systems up before, I’d love to hear how it went, if there were any gotchas, etc… I’m reading the pile of manuals I have for all the things, but none of them mention whether the tank should be fully wet before set up, and I can’t find any info online.

Thanks!

Current status (small tank will be my QT setup):

 

[CasperOe]

Wait until the tank is wet- some of your equipment might be damaged if run dry!

And don't worry about the leak test- you'll be just fine this prefabricated plumbing is very hard to do wrong.

 

[Doctorgori]

you could pour a cup or so into the overflow before going all in….
just look underneath and check the bulkheads with a flashlight and some toilet paper…. should be good

 

[Smithrz]

you could pour a cup or so into the overflow before going all in….
just look underneath and check the bulkheads with a flashlight and some toilet paper…. should be good

Yeah that was my plan with the leak test. My biggest concern are the bulkheads where the plumbing is mated, seems like the most obvious weak point.

Thanks!

 

[Smithrz]

you could pour a cup or so into the overflow before going all in….
just look underneath and check the bulkheads with a flashlight and some toilet paper…. should be good

Okay, thanks! That was my instinct but I just wanted some confirmation from people who know better than I do.

 

[ryanjohn1]

Yeah that was my plan with the leak test. My biggest concern are the bulkheads where the plumbing is mated, seems like the most obvious weak point.

Thanks!

Did you moisten the rubber gaskets before tightening? Just with a tiny bit of water

 

[Smithrz]

Did you moisten the rubber gaskets before tightening? Just with a tiny bit of water

I didn’t, should I undo them and do that?

 

[ryanjohn1]

I didn’t, should I undo them and do that?

It helps get them a hair tighter without potentially ripping the rubber

 

[Smithrz]

It helps get them a hair tighter without potentially ripping the rubber

Yeah makes sense, just not sure if I should undo what I’ve done; I might do damage that way?

 

[ryanjohn1]

Yeah makes sense, just not sure if I should undo what I’ve done; I might do damage that way?

Did you use a wrench or something on it? To tighten. It would probably not hurt it to come off. And you can always get more rubbers at lowes or Home Depot

 

[Smithrz]

Did you use a wrench or something on it? To tighten. It would probably not hurt it to come off. And you can always get more rubbers at lowes or Home Depot

No, I just hand tightened them pretty tight, I didn’t want to over tighten them though! Had visions of cracking something lol. I’ll leave it for now, and take the leak test slowly in the overflow, if I find a leak then ill undo and redo the fittings with a bit of moisture. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[LPS Bum]

I set up a Gen 2 Reefer 625 last Dec. I filled the tank first to do the leak test. No problems. Just ensure that you hand tighten the plumbing rather than crank it down with tools.

As for the equipment, I filled my tank and sump first, then put the return pump, heaters, gyres, etc into position and turned them on. None of these things can run dry, so I'm not sure you'd have an option other than running them in a bucket first.

Great tanks. The Gen 2 model has given me zero problems in almost a year now. Enjoy!

 

[Smithrz]

I set up a Gen 2 Reefer 625 last Dec. I filled the tank first to do the leak test. No problems. Just ensure that you hand tighten the plumbing rather than crank it down with tools.

As for the equipment, I filled my tank and sump first, then put the return pump, heaters, gyres, etc into position and turned them on. None of these things can run dry, so I'm not sure you'd have an option other than running them in a bucket first.

Great tanks. The Gen 2 model has given me zero problems in almost a year now. Enjoy!

Thanks! I sat and read all the manuals this evening, and actually did see that the pump and gyre both said not to run dry. I’ll update the OP.

 

[flfrosty]

Hello,

I am setting up my own G2+ 200. Would love an update on your tank and any lessons learned!

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Thanks! I sat and read all the manuals this evening, and actually did see that the pump and gyre both said not to run dry. I’ll update the OP.

you can always run pumps in 5 gallon buckets outside... thats how I clean my pumps in citric acid.

as far as leak testing I recommend filling the new tank with r.o water it will fill slow and you can watch for leaks, then run the system for a few days and allow the r.o water to help clean and strip the tank and plumbing of manufacturing debris and stuff, then drain the system and wipe down the tank, then refill the entire system with the needed r.o water then just slowly add salt until salinity is 35ppt