Help with tank stand for 210 gal

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Hello all,

I recently acquired a 210 gallon tank that will be my new reef tank. I watched a bunch of videos and have done lots of reading on this site and via Google. Here is what I need help with or confirm what I am doing is ok.
My tank is 72" long x 24" wide x 28" tall. I have a 75 gallon sump to put underneath. I wanted to keep the front wide open with no center brace. I have been watching Joey's videos below but figured I would use 2x8" for the top fram and 2x4 everywhere else.
Can someone please tell me if using the 2x8 with no center brace on front and only in back, would that work?

Here is Joey's videos:

Any help and recommendations I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[flagg37]

Here’s the results of my calculations.

With the supports all the way at at the ends there will be about 1/16” (0.0658”) of deflection in the middle.

If you were to have the supports at the ends and then also added supports 12” in from either side to leave 48” open in the middle it cuts the deflection down by about 1/2 as much or about 1/32” (0.0395”).

These calculations were run with a distributed load of 2100lbs divided by 2 since you’ll have a front and back beam across the 6’ (2100/2/6=175lbs/ft)

Just to be clear, I’m not an engineer.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Here’s the results of my calculations.

With the supports all the way at at the ends there will be about 1/16” (0.0658”) of deflection in the middle.

If you were to have the supports at the ends and then also added supports 12” in from either side to leave 48” open in the middle it cuts the deflection down by about 1/2 as much or about 1/32” (0.0395”).

These calculations were run with a distributed load of 2100lbs divided by 2 since you’ll have a front and back beam across the 6’ (2100/2/6=175lbs/ft)

Just to be clear, I’m not an engineer.

So are you saying if I add horizontal supports on the front 12" from the corner posts then it will be ok? Or is it still not ok? What is the max/safe deflection? And your calculations are based on me using 2x8 for the top frame and 2x4 everywhere else?

Also, what app did you use for this?

Thank you for this info!

 

[Glenner’sreef]

I also built a stand and recall (I believe Joey) saying to have lengths of no more than 48”. So a 72” front/back should have a brace at 24” with the remaining opening of 48”. I used 2 x 6s all around the top.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

I also built a stand and recall (I believe Joey) saying to have lengths of no more than 48”. So a 72” front/back should have a brace at 24” with the remaining opening of 48”. I used 2 x 6s all around the top.

Thanks for that that info. I was going to use 2x8's on top frame wondering if that helps as much as I think. What I'd like to know is how much of a deflection is acceptable.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Or would going 2x10 on top frame make it much much stronger to not need any vertical supports other than the ones on the corner? Thanks!

 

[Glenner’sreef]

Or would going 2x10 on top frame make it much much stronger to not need any vertical supports other than the ones on the corner? Thanks!

That makes total sense to me. Some added assurance is to use 4x4s in each corner. Did that on my frag tank as well. Redundancy and overkill can be a good thing in this hobby. Water changes, multiple heaters, battery run emergency air pump etc and yes heavier lumber for building stands. I never have to worry. Good luck.

 

[Reefering1]

Here’s the results of my calculations.

With the supports all the way at at the ends there will be about 1/16” (0.0658”) of deflection in the middle.

If you were to have the supports at the ends and then also added supports 12” in from either side to leave 48” open in the middle it cuts the deflection down by about 1/2 as much or about 1/32” (0.0395”).

These calculations were run with a distributed load of 2100lbs divided by 2 since you’ll have a front and back beam across the 6’ (2100/2/6=175lbs/ft)

Just to be clear, I’m not an engineer.

Sounds like he wants no center brace.. according to the calculations, what size wood would it take to do that?

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Sounds like he wants no center brace.. according to the calculations, what size wood would it take to do that?

I have a feeling 2x8 top frame is enough but I bought 2x10 yesterday and thinking I should take it back and stick to the 2x8 which sounds like plenty for having no center brace.
Just looking for concurrence at this point

Thanks!

 

[Glenner’sreef]

Back to a max of 48” opening. All 2x6s. This was the last stand I built for my tank. 48” long, one opening. I now have a 72” long reef with a factory stand with 2 braces each at 24”. Not ideal for maintenance. But I’m sure i heard 4’ max opening.

 

[rocket098]

You could get a lvl board that’s 8 inches. Those can support a lot of weight. You will have less stress and headaches.

 

[rocket098]

For my stand I learned the formula they use to determine the load a board can support. For my 2x6 cherry board I had the max length as 43 inches that was supporting a 5000 lbs tank. If you go with 2x8 I would add the extra supports about 10 inches from each side. This way you will have an opening of only about 52 inches but all in the middle. Hope this makes sense.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

For my stand I learned the formula they use to determine the load a board can support. For my 2x6 cherry board I had the max length as 43 inches that was supporting a 5000 lbs tank. If you go with 2x8 I would add the extra supports about 10 inches from each side. This way you will have an opening of only about 52 inches but all in the middle. Hope this makes sense.

I verified with @RocketEngineer that a 2x8 will allow me to span the 72" without center braces. I'm ready to roll.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Ok the skeleton for the stand is done for my 210. Thanks to all of you and especially @RocketEngineer for the plans. As you can see I added extra supports and redos a couple holes on the 2x8 lol. No biggie since I will skin it with plywood and then paint and barn doors. I also laid the bottom 2x4 so that it gives me a couple extra inches for the sump and creates a little pool for any water that spills out. I'm going to silicone all the corners at the bottom and the waterproof paint will help and I'll also seal along the bottom of the sump once it's in there so water doesn't get under it.
I also used 2 inch 10gauge 305 stainless steel screws because of the market environment even though they aren't 316 it's the next best I could find.

Stay tuned!

Thanks again!

 

[Sleeping Giant]

looks great

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

looks great

Appreciate that. Took some twerking here and there but I feel confident this thing can hold 10 elephants lol.

 

[Cajun86]

You could park a M1-Abrams "TANK" on that and it aint going no where! Great job!
I had my 250gal stand made from 3" Alum I-beam. No center support. I'm a Mechanical Engineer btw.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

You could park a M1-Abrams "TANK" on that and it aint going no where! Great job!
I had my 250gal stand made from 3" Alum I-beam. No center support. I'm a Mechanical Engineer btw.

Oh awesome so mechanical engineer approved! Nice! . No center brace it is!
Thank you!

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

You could park a M1-Abrams "TANK" on that and it aint going no where! Great job!
I had my 250gal stand made from 3" Alum I-beam. No center support. I'm a Mechanical Engineer btw.

By the wayove that you built with 3" aluminum I-beams! Do you have pics and plans you can share?

Thanks again!