High phosphates

I keep an LPS tank and some of my corals are noticeably happier with phosphate around 0.1-0.2 vs around 0.04. I accidentally proved this (again) last month when I left my phosphate dosing pump off. Before and after pic below. This particular coral was closed for several weeks while I was away. My daughter’s phosphate tests were 0.02, 0.04, 0.04 during this period. Within 36 hours of me coming home, realizing the problem, and dosing 0.2 ppm phosphate, it opened back up and has stayed this way. Phosphate was the only change I made.

I notice much less impact from nitrate. I have run long stretches near zero, 5, 10, and 15. Near zero was the only time I thought my corals didn’t look as open/fluffy. It was not dramatic. I have settle on just trying to keep some nitrate and call it good.

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My tank is 5 month old, with most LPS and SPS. My Po4 rencentky move up from 0.2 to now 0.38. I still see my corals are fine, in my opinion (many I am wrong), and the SPS is developed, spread in the base. Do I need to worries about the Po4 and what is the easy way to get it down? I dont Have refugium, either GFO reactor. Can I just use GFO and put in a filter bag?
I upload my tank photo (180L including sump) and latest parameters. Thanks for your advise
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This is my general recommendation:

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/randy’s-thoughts-on-nutrient-target-ranges.1087/
4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:
  • Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
  • Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
  • Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
  • Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
  • Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
  • Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up.
 
So my phosphates have been pretty high within last couple months and I didn’t find out until yesterday. I assume this proves why some of my torches have been retracted last few months. I was using a salifert test kit which clearly wasn’t accurate enough. The Hanna checker had it at .36 so pretty high. I started with a phosguard bag to help lower them. My nitrates are pretty low. Usually around 10 but last test was around 2. I only have 3 fish and 5 more coming on Friday so hopefully should boost nitrates and keep them more in the range of 10 consistently. What’s best way to lower phosphates? Stick with phosgaurd and see how low it drops? Started feeing less to help. Starting to add acros so want to keep it around .05-.10 ish. Thanks for the recommendations
Phosguard is my absolute favorite. Everytime we go on vacation something happens and inget a phosphate spike. This stuff Doesn’t touch any other chemestry and easy to use in all tanks. Just dont use too much! I have learned that lesson the hard way! Follow the directions precisely on how much to use even if it seems like too little.
 
Phosguard is my absolute favorite. Everytime we go on vacation something happens and inget a phosphate spike. This stuff Doesn’t touch any other chemestry and easy to use in all tanks. Just dont use too much! I have learned that lesson the hard way! Follow the directions precisely on how much to use even if it seems like too little.

How do you know that? I think that like GFO, it is likely to bind many trace elements, and it also releases aluminum to the water.
 
Phosguard is my absolute favorite. Everytime we go on vacation something happens and inget a phosphate spike. This stuff Doesn’t touch any other chemestry and easy to use in all tanks. Just dont use too much! I have learned that lesson the hard way! Follow the directions precisely on how much to use even if it seems like too little.

How do you know that? I think that like GFO, it is likely to bind many trace elements, and it also releases aluminum to the water.
Ok i should say major elements are untouched. Trace elements i have never tested before and after. But none of my corals show typical affects of
Trace element deficiency or excess. I also dont run the phosguard for long, 1 -2 days max and only in filter socks, not in a reactor.
 

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