Yup, only the di needs changing.I apologize for real from everyone here. It seems like iv been running that wrong setup the whole 2 weeks. Should i only change DI? Or change the membrance and everything else after that big messed up?
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Yup, only the di needs changing.I apologize for real from everyone here. It seems like iv been running that wrong setup the whole 2 weeks. Should i only change DI? Or change the membrance and everything else after that big messed up?
This. By flushing the membranes you bypass the DI resin and all the higher tds water clears the system. Do you have a flush valve on your system?That could do it.. It's called TDS Creep. When the system is off the TDS on the RO water side goes up. The first half gallon of water out of the RO is high in TDS, It will eat your DI resin up. Flushing the membrane does nothing as it is already on the RO water side. The way to solve this is to make large batches of water infrequently OR put a RO/DI Bypass valve in so you can collect the first 32-64oz of RO water before closing the valve and sending it to the DI canisters.
This is good advice. I make 10g at a time (weekly).FWIW, you will deplete the DI faster running the unit on short bursts, rather then long runs. Best to use the unit for large amounts of water, rather then turning it on and off for small amounts of water.
Because it’s bypassing the DI part of the process. The same thing happens with my unit. It’s totally normal!Why the water is faster when flushing?
There is an edit button. (Don't know if you knew this)Glad you figured it out! No need to be embarrassed. We’ve all been there!
Why would I need to edit anything?There is an edit button. (Don't know if you knew this)
This flush valve does not help remove the high TDS RO water that builds up on the system when the system is off and sitting for a while.
You might want to reread what I said. I never said it doesn't flush the RO membrane. And I specifically said exactly what you just did. That it flushes the surface of the RO membrane to eliminate stuff that could be clogging it up.Hate to disagree with you, but thats exactly what the flush valve is supposed to do. Push low pressure water over the membrane to clean off any scale or high TDS from it sitting.
I will give you that it will push the high TDS through the DI without a bypass. But to say it does not "flush" the Ro membrane is just wrong.
Is 3ppm after the RO without DI is good? My unit tds built in showing 1. My pen showing 3. Or i nesd to change the membrance? Brs told me if tds goes up to 4 after RO no DI. Membrance needs changinfYou might want to reread what I said. I never said it doesn't flush the RO membrane. And I specifically said exactly what you just did. That it flushes the surface of the RO membrane to eliminate stuff that could be clogging it up.
"This valve when opened bypasses the flow restrictor to allow rapid volumes of water out the waste line. It 'flushes' stuff that is on the outside surface of the RO membrane only. It is supposed to eliminate anything that could be clogging the membrane and reducing water flow through it and reducing RO output."
I said it does not help eliminate the high TDS RO water that is in the system as a result of TDS Creep. Which I think we seem to agree on?
I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.Is 3ppm after the RO without DI is good? My unit tds built in showing 1. My pen showing 3. Or i nesd to change the membrance? Brs told me if tds goes up to 4 after RO no DI. Membrance needs changinf
Left it running for few extra minutes. And it dropped to 2. My built in tds meter shows 1. So 1 difference.I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.
Can u help me connect the splitter and the valve?I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.
Yes. Just remind me what the Y splitter was for?Can u help me connect the splitter and the valve?
Im going to do it once i get home from work. Yes pictures would be big help! Thank you so muchEasy peasy......
Take the hose going into the DI canister, plug it into the bottom of the valve. Run one side of the valve into the DI canister, the other to the flush valve.
Now take the splitter, and unplug the in from the flush valve and push that into the splitter(the side with one end), take the line from the valve, plug that into the splitter, and the regular waste line(the one that was plugged into the flush valve).
All done.
Now when you go to flush the unit, you turn the T valve so all the water goes to waste, nothing goes into the DI. Turn on your TDS meter, when the TDS comes down to 3(I think thats what you said?), turn the T valve so water now goes into the DI.
If you need pictures to help, let me know.