High ppm all of sudden?

[Notsolostfish]

That's not right??
I think you have a bad membrane.

Brs said they are not honring the warranty for membrance.... what the.

Btw what position should my flush valve be if i wanna flush?

 

[KStatefan]

The position it is in now

 

[KStatefan]

Why the water is faster when flushing?

What water is faster?

when you are using the flush valve you are bypassing the flow restrictor

 

[Notsolostfish]

What water is faster?

when you are using the flush valve you are bypassing the flow restrictor

When i flush the system. The water comes out faster from RO unit then when im producing water.

 

[KStatefan]

When i flush the system. The water comes out faster from RO unit then when im producing water.

the waste water?

 

[Notsolostfish]

the waste water?

When i put my system in flush more. The unit is still producing water. Not only waste water but regulsr water as well. Am i going insane here or something wrong with my unit?

 

[Shirak]

When i put my system in flush more. The unit is still producing water. Not only waste water but regulsr water as well. Am i going insane here or something wrong with my unit?

When the flush valve is open you will have more water out of the waste (black) line and less out of the RO (blue) line but you will still get water out of both. Closing the flush valve will reduce waste water and increase RO water.

 

[Notsolostfish]

When the flush valve is open you will have more water out of the waste (black) line and less out of the RO (blue) line but you will still get water out of both. Closing the flush valve will reduce waste water and increase RO water.

Well my pressure on the blue line is more. But thats a story for another day. I wanna know why im getting higher ppm from the unit than my tap water? My tap water is only 63ppm. It shouldnt even burn my DI that fast.

 

[Shirak]

Leave the flush valve closed. It really doesn't do much except reduce RO water output.

Well my pressure on the blue line is more. But thats a story for another day. I wanna know why im getting higher ppm from the unit than my tap water? My tap water is only 63ppm. It shouldnt even burn my DI that fast.

Your waste water will be higher TDS than your tap water but not by a huge amount.

Did this unit come with all the tubing and everything attached?

 

[Notsolostfish]

Leave the flush valve closed. It really doesn't do much except reduce RO water output.

Your waste water will be higher TDS than your tap water but not by a huge amount.

Did this unit come with all the tubing and everything attached?

Yes. Everythint was attached. I just connected it to the booster pump

 

[Notsolostfish]

Leave the flush valve closed. It really doesn't do much except reduce RO water output.

Your waste water will be higher TDS than your tap water but not by a huge amount.

Did this unit come with all the tubing and everything attached?

I have a feeling this unit is defective from the beginning. the membrance was broke. and it was burning through the DI. so the DI was doing all the work. and got used super fast

 

[xcountryx]

I dont want to add to the frustration but do have a question.

Do you by chance leave your RODI system on, relying on an auto shut off valve?

I did this when I was new, not realizing the waste water still ran once my water container was full. This burnt through my other filter. Then burnt up my DI when I did one big water change. Not sure if this is the case though. Just a thought

 

[Notsolostfish]

I dont want to add to the frustration but do have a question.

Do you by chance leave your RODI system on, relying on an auto shut off valve?

I did this when I was new, not realizing the waste water still ran once my water container was full. This burnt through my other filter. Then burnt up my DI when I did one big water change. Not sure if this is the case though. Just a thought

not sure what's the auto shut off valve. i don't have that. i just shutdown the water

 

[xcountryx]

Ok just thought I would ask.

I know you asked what your next step is, and that's a great question! Theres alot of valuable info already given to you. At this point this is what I would do. Replace your membrane. Sounds like it's either defective. And replace your DI. Then follow the other suggestions on flushing the the system before going into DI. Hopefully this will give you longer use out of your filters.

Hope this helps!

 

[Notsolostfish]

Ok just thought I would ask.

I know you asked what your next step is, and that's a great question! Theres alot of valuable info already given to you. At this point this is what I would do. Replace your membrane. Sounds like it's either defective. And replace your DI. Then follow the other suggestions on flushing the the system before going into DI. Hopefully this will give you longer use out of your filters.

Hope this helps!

I don't wanna pay for the membrance. Im going to fight BRS for it. 500$ unit for a defective membrance. completely not my fault. considering i just got this unit.

 

[xcountryx]

I don't wanna pay for the membrance. Im going to fight BRS for it. 500$ unit for a defective membrance. completely not my fault. considering i just got this unit.

I feel you on that! Kinda shocked that was the reply knowing it's not that old.

 

[Shirak]

What xcountryx is asking is if you have a system that makes water automatically when the level in a container gets low. We already discussed this and you said you were making small batches of water frequently. Whether you do it manually or it's on some automatic switch makes no difference. Doing this WILL use up your DI even if the RO system is working fine.

Are you sure you are measuring the correct water? You said you had 60 something tds at the tap and over 100 out the RO. That's not possible. Take a sample of your tap water from the faucet and measure that.

Then disconnect the blue line where it's circled and let it run for and produce a gallon of water... dump that water and then collect a new sample to measure the TDS. The flush valve should be CLOSED the whole time. In fact it should stay closed.. flushing it does very little for the membrane and does NOT get rid of high TDS in the RO line when the unit has been sitting after turning off the water flow from the previous useage.

Forget about what the TDS is after the DI cartridges. They are shot anyway.

Really trying to determine if your RO membranes are functioning properly by measure the TDS of the tap water and the RO water after the unit has been running for 5-10minutes and is producing proper RO water.

Last question. Is your TDS pen reading correctly?

 

[Notsolostfish]

What xcountryx is asking is if you have a system that makes water automatically when the level in a container gets low. We already discussed this and you said you were making small batches of water frequently. Whether you do it manually or it's on some automatic switch makes no difference. Doing this WILL use up your DI even if the RO system is working fine.

Are you sure you are measuring the correct water? You said you had 60 something tds at the tap and over 100 out the RO. That's not possible. Take a sample of your tap water from the faucet and measure that.

Then disconnect the blue line where it's circled and let it run for and produce a gallon of water... dump that water and then collect a new sample to measure the TDS. The flush valve should be CLOSED the whole time. In fact it should stay closed.. flushing it does very little for the membrane and does NOT get rid of high TDS in the RO line when the unit has been sitting after turning off the water flow from the previous useage.

Forget about what the TDS is after the DI cartridges. They are shot anyway.

Really trying to determine if your RO membranes are functioning properly by measure the TDS of the tap water and the RO water after the unit has been running for 5-10minutes and is producing proper RO water.

Last question. Is your TDS pen reading correctly?

Well thats possible. I took a sample from my main source water and its 63ppm. Did the test twice. From the RO. Its 100+. My pen is reading correctly and matching the tds meter on the RO unit.

 

[Shirak]

Well thats possible. I took a sample from my main source water and its 63ppm. Did the test twice. From the RO. Its 100+. My pen is reading correctly and matching the tds meter on the RO unit.

Well something isn't right in your readings. There is no way for the source water to go from 63 to over 100 on the RO.

On page 3 you said

I checked my tds coming from the main water source. Abd its 133pm. 30 ppm after DI

So which is it?

I would suggest you take a breather.. Tomorrow Retest the source water. Unplug that blue line like I indicated and let the unit run for 10min and then collect some fresh RO water and test that.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Well something isn't right in your readings. There is no way for the source water to go from 63 to over 100 on the RO.

On page 3 you said

So which is it?

I would suggest you take a breather.. Tomorrow Retest the source water. Unplug that blue line like I indicated and let the unit run for 10min and then collect some fresh RO water and test that.

Good morning. I did what you told me. I woke up. Took a deep breath, and got to work. I grabbed an empty cup. Filled it with my tap water. 63ppm again. Ran the unit flush is closed and DI disconnected. Ran it exactly for 10 min. Filled. 116ppm. Worth to note that the 3 cartidges on my rodi are not empty? I dont know if thats going to change anything. They are filled to the top. But yes thats the resulrs with 2 different pens. So now we can argue all day hows thats wrong. But thats what im getting.